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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1500 clutch

I have a couple of questions. Replaced master and slave, bled and I still don't get full pedal pressure. The pedal suddenly lost pressure late last summer and I could see air in the line-thus I changed slave and master. I wonder if I am missing something before I re&re the clutch, bearing and plate (does anyone have any ideas/thoughts) That leads to my next question-should I dare to try and do the clutch re&re without removing the engine? (i.e. from below)?
T Leach

I don't think that it is possible to replace the clutch without essentially removing the engine, 1500's have fairly tight engine bays.
Have you checked that the pivot pin for the release arm (Part 65/66) is still in place? If this falls out the arm can pivot around the bellhousing resulting in less travel.


BH Harvey

Unfortunately to change the clutch in a 1500 requires an engine out job. The transmission cannot be dropped out like many North American designed cars because the bottom of the car is like a large flat pan that prevents that. There is a small access hole which allows you to unbolt the driveshaft from the end of the transmission. Keep the drive flanges in the original position when reassembling everything. Mark them with paint or a tag in a hole to prevent the driveshaft from possibly being out of balance later. I know it shouldn't be a problem because the shaft joints weren't interfered with but I like to make sure everything went back as it was before any disassembly to avoid any problems later on.

The good thing is that if you do pull the engine/transmission, you'll be able to check out all the clutch pivot points easily.

You don't have to disconnect the slave cylinder from the hydraulic line either. Just remove it and tie it up out of the way and install it when everything is back in again.

Enlist the aid of a helper to help get the engine out/in again. The engine transmission assembly isn't that heavy so a standard hoist should handle it with no problems.

Mark the hinge alignment on the bonnet (hood) before removing it. That helps to align them easier when you have to put it back on.

Clive Reddin

Thank you both. I am going to get some help this weekend to make sure I have a proper bleed on the fluid before pulling the motor. The good news is that I can give everything under teh hood a good cleaning.

cheers
T Leach

Bleeding the clutch is a pain on 1500's. Did my master & slave last summer took ages to get the air out. Lots of info/ides in the archives. Quickest I found was to get an ezibleed pressure type bleeder that runs off the tyre pressure, that finally gave me a 'proper' feeling pedal. Definately suggest this before pulling the engine!

Richard
r parker

Well, yes, check all the simple things first before pulling the engine. Loads of tips and ideas on how to bleed the clutch hydraulics in the archives section. It is a PITA no matter what!
Clive Reddin

This thread was discussed between 16/01/2012 and 18/01/2012

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