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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - alloy rocker cover fitting

I am thinking of replacing the standard rocker cover with an alloy item.(Car is 1275cc)
Can someone guide me through fitting this or am I best just putting this on a list to do at its next MOT/Service.
Will I need tools I haven't got such as a torque wrench..(dumb question probably but I gotta know!!)
cherokeev8

2 bolts and a new cork gasket. Shouldn't take more than 3 minutes to swap - you can even change the bolts to 'T' bars to make removal even easier. Once the new one is on spend some time lining it up so that none of the rockers are rubbing - the alloy 'box' wall is thicker then the old pressed steel version and to my eye, the extra thickness is on the inside. Here's a pic of mine before I switched the carb...

graeme jackson

these are to look pretty and cut down a bit on noise, personally I prefer to hear the engine

as it breathes better I'd recommend to keep and use the black plastic filtered and vented oil filler cap rather than use a chrome one

as for fitting if you've not got a parts book then check a suppliers' parts web page to check you have all of the correct fittings for the cover the nut, spacer, washer and rubber bush

you'll probably need a new cork gasket and sometimes these can be a fiddle to fit as they can move when you offer up the cover to the head so to stop this use a few of small spots of sealant to the gasket to hold it to the cover

you only need a (5/8" IIRC) spanner to tighten down the two nuts, I've found it very difficult to get the tightness right, you don't want to squash the cork gasket so it's not too tight - I've only ever got it right once when the head remains bone dry every other time oil has got passed the cork gasket
Nigel Atkins

Depending upon where you are located in Essex by coming to a Kent Masc meeting www.masckent.org someone would fit it for you.
Alan
Alan Anstead

What I do to seal the cork gasket and make it reusable...

I silicone the gasket to the cover to make it permanent, then apply a layer of white lithion grease to the bottom of the cork gasket so that its completly and somewhat lightly covered then assemble, when you remove it just reapply the white grease and bolt it back down agian... this can be done over and over

The white lithion grease melts and lightly bonds to the cly head but will release with some gentle persussion

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Thanks for that tip Prop - looks like a good 'un. Up to now I've used Hermetite or Hylomar both sides of the gasket on pushrod engines and usually made an unholy mess due to hamfistedness/impatience.
Not any more! I'm switching the Prop method!
RS Hughes

I wish i could take credit as my own, but I cant, the concept came from david lieb, an old friend and very involved member of the BBS from years ago.


One note... you will have to retighten the hardware because the white lithion grease shrinks a bit once its heated a few times
I do this on the sump gaskets a well

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Duly noted Prop. A sound wheeze wherever it came from and thanks for passing it on.
Especially as the CAT 3412 diesels we have in the lifeboat have 12 separate rocker covers on each of two engines. This could save me hours of valuable beer time 555!
Rod.
RS Hughes

Haha

If all the gaskets are cork... id think that would save a few saterdays

To break the seal of thee white grease just heavy tap the side of the valve cover with a rubber mallet ... and thats usually enough to break the bond

It might even work for the thermostate gasket...I havent tried it

Prop

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

This thread was discussed between 27/01/2015 and 29/01/2015

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