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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Brake Light Switch (NMC)

Not Spridget, but MGB, so similar issue.

Giving the car a once over, as I'm going to Cadwell Park tomorrow for the Cult Classics meeting. Only spectating.

Checked brakes and added some ceramic grease to the backs of the front pads, as they've been squealing annoyingly. Adjusted rear brakes, too. Greased kingpins and took it for a quick road test, all good.

When I got home, I was putting the car away for the night when I realised the brake lights were stuck on. I fitted a relay a few years ago, in order to give my 50+ year old switch a chance of surviving. Unfortunately, it decided to fail the opposite way, sticking on rather than burning out.

Fortunately I had a spare, used switch in the garage. It took me about 15 minutes to find it and 10 minutes to change it.

All good for an early start in the morning.

I'll have to keep an eye out for another spare switch now.
Dave O'Neill 2

I had to change the switch on my Sebring Rep in a car park at Florence, Italy, after being informed that my brake lights were permanently on.
Some have found reliability by using a Harley-Davidson motor-cycle switch.

Alan Anstead

Have you thought about going electric rather than hydraulic?
Years ago, the cheap hydraulic switches from the usual suspects kept failing so I bought a Mini one like this £5.50
https://tinyurl.com/38j4n3mh
Been ok for at least 10 years.

Jeremy MkIII

Jeremy

Are you using it with or without a relay?
Dave O'Neill 2

Dave,
without, as the bulbs are LEDs but initially they were incandescent and it gave no problems then either.
Jeremy MkIII

I'm a fan of Alan's solution, with the motorbike switch. Not necessarily Harley Davidson branded but a universal bike rear brake light switch. HD don't make switches anyway, they buy them in from eg: Japan.
I remember them being popular with kit car builders and so on because they are very robust, being designed for for what might be described as severe service as they are very exposed to weather and road crap on a bike.
I used them myself to replace failed switches back in the day. For some reason Cortinas and early Transits seemed to be susceptible. Also Ladas.
All you need to worry about is finding a convenient place to fix the wire hook but as I didn't give a monkey's about originality I didn't mind drilling a hole somewhere. The switch pull going to the pedal is on a spring so it's not particularly positionally sensitive.
The hydraulic switches were a notorious point of leakage of brake fluid in my experience and best removed anyway.
YMMV.
Greybeard

Grey

I think the Harley switch is also hydraulic.

I know what you mean about m/c rear brake light switches. I don't think I've ever had one fail, but I don't know what the quality of modern replacements is like.
Dave O'Neill 2

This thread was discussed between 05/09/2025 and 17/09/2025

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