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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Buying tips

Hi ,
What do I need to look out for when buying a midget at auction. I know the obvious things like bodywork and oil leaks, but wondered if there is anything more specific related to midgets
Nigel Munford

Hi Nigel. Could be a long list, so I will make a start.
Assuming that when buying at auction it needs to be things you can readily check as you walk round. Much of this is visible or you can feel along edges with your fingers without groveling around too much. Structural bodywork is critical so checking for the main rust areas:

1. Inside. Lift the carpet edges in the footwells where the floor joins the inner sill and at the front beneath the pedals. A short stubby screwdriver hides neatly in your palm for poking suspect areas. Tip or slide the seats forward and check along the full floor to rear heelboard joint, but especially in the corners behind the door opening. Open the boot and check the seam along the rear edge where it meets the back panel.

2. Outside. Look for even door gaps of about 3mm. The main thing is that the rear edge one isn't narrower at the top than the bottom (indicates a collapsing sill) Look for rust bubbles at the A post to sill area, and with door open, below the lower door hinge. Check along the door bottoms. Check the full length of the outer sill, especially its lower edge. Be warey if it has had smart SS cover sills fitted! Then check under the rear wheel arch, especially at the forward area where the spring locates with the floor and rear bulkhead. Check around the wheel arch lip. Under the front, check the two chassis extensions and front cross member area. (they are supposed to slope up slightly - don't be alarmed by that!

Clearly other body areas may rust or have damage but those are the most likely. If they are good then in my experience the rest is probably ok or at least not critical.

Someone else can advise on mechanicals!
GuyW

At auction? How much time and access do you get?

Apart from anything Guy mentioned, I'd look for documented history of repairs/rebuild. Pictures and words.

You can spend an hour in a regular sale and still get one with problems.

Mechanics are very much easier to fix. So spend most of your time on the body. By which I mean the body parts that don't bolt on.

anamnesis

Front wings are very expensive, these days.

Check the bottom of the wing, above the sill, to make sure it isn't full of filler. Also make sure that the gap between the bottom of the wing and the top of the sill hasn't been filled in.

Check door bottoms for rust or filler.
Dave O'Neill 2

True. I'd forgotten front wings are now circa 640 quid a pop. Bonnets/boot and doors not cheap either for new. And the dront valence for rhat matter too. But at least 'easy' to change, and if the auction price is cheap enough, may not be such a big issue.

I agree though, best avoid rot anywhere, esp' as finding filler in those bolt on panels could be a sign of worse hidden away.



anamnesis

If you enjoy/are good at welding and fabricating, then all that Guy and Anam have highlighted apply and you'll have a satisfying project.
However if you're not, then an option is to seek out one with a replacement Heritage shell.
They are better protected against rust than the originals.
However the oldest are now knocking on for 30 years (mine's 29) so expect to see some rot if they've not had additional protection and not been looked after.
Jeremy MkIII

If you're looking at a 1500, check for fore and aft movement of the crankshaft pulley. Might indicate knackered crankshaft thrust washers, and an engine out/rebuild.

Book says max endfloat is .006"-.014" . But I think some say that's too much.

There are experts on 1500s who will chip in if I'm wrong.

anamnesis

Quite difficult to check that at an auction inspection. Unless you happen to have a crowbar hidden down one trouser leg!
Oh, ok. A very large flat bladed screwdriver then.
GuyW

How about foot on the clutch pedal to push the crank forward? Can you then get a hand down on the pulley and push it back? Is there room with a 1500 engine?
anamnesis

Thats what you need a pry bar for. I doubt it would move by hand even if there was wear. But you are right that with a 1500 it's worth checking. Just I think you need something to lever it back with.
GuyW

Ah right. I'd be tempted to take a long screw driver with me then. Lol.

With so many Spridgets for sale anyway, is it really worth shopping at an auction? There are currently over 100 on car and classic alone. As well as plenty on ebay.

Just curious Nigel, what's your budget for a Spridget? Must it be a Midget? Or is a Sprite acceptable too?



anamnesis

As well as all the other great advice . I would say get familiar with the different models and changes in spec. There are a lot of rubber to chrome conversions which is fine as long as you are aware of it . Also 1500 bodied cars with earlier registrations which may be more of a concern. Probably a hangover from the early days of MOT tax exemption. I say all this and my car is a right mix of bits it’s just about being aware .
Mike Fairclough

No need to pull a 1500s engine to replace thrust washers. If they haven't actually fallen out (which will result in a LOT of damage) they can be replaced fairly easily in situ.
Okay, it's fiddly but not hard.
They're even pretty cheap.
The book suggests 0.006" - 0.014" endfloat but that's too much. Most sources say 0.005" is about the limit.
OTOH, while you're in there you might as well look at the big end shells at the same time. 1500s are known to be hard on them.
Greybeard

Thanks for all your comments.re, midget vs spridget, the older the better, not too keen on later models.
Nigel Munford

Do you have one in mind?

If you do, post a link and we can give it the virtual once-over.
Dave O'Neill 2

Nigel

Terry Horler’s book ‘Original Sprite & Midget’ is a very useful book to understand the production history and standard specification of these cars from 1959 to 1979. https://www.herridgeandsons.com/original-sprite-midget This helps determine which mark you are looking at and to what degree it has still had the period correct bits on it for the mark and year from engine size, carbs and filters to seats, instruments etc as well as interior and exterior colour. You might not be too bothered about some of this but should be reflected in the value as well as help identify later cars dressed up to be earlier ones or cars that have had unsympathetic mods/repairs. For A Series engined cars you might be tolerant of a 1098cc or 1275cc engine and front disc brakes in a car that originally had a smaller engine and drum brakes, as long as the conversion was done well. Decide if you are happy with a Ford Type 9 5 speed gearbox conversion.

If you can drive various models in regular roadgoing condition to see which you prefer. As others have said, the structural condition of the bodywork is key. A structurally sound useable road car car with plenty of original bits might be a better car/better value than a very shiny recent ‘restoration’.

Good luck with your search.

Cheers
Mike
M Wood

This thread was discussed between 08/06/2025 and 10/06/2025

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