MG-Cars.info
MG Midget and Sprite Technical Carburettor flexible fuel pipe renewal BBS discussion at MG-Cars.info
MG-Cars.info
Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.
Parts
MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.
|
|
MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Carburettor flexible fuel pipe renewal
| I'm looking at parts needed for cleaning up and fitting the carburettors to the Frogeye 1275 engine. I have two pairs of HS2's one older pair not used for 40 years, one pair not used for about 10 years. Whichever I use, should the flexible fuel pipes from float chamber to jet be changed? I presume this means new jets as it's all one item, true? In which case that's about £50 for two, rather a lot if not needed. What bothers me is whether older pipes can cope with modern fuel. You don't want them splitting and spraying petrol everywhere! Also, what should I do to the carbs as a MINIMUM before using them? |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Hi Bill. Those pipes are some sort of plastic or nylon and I don't think are susceptible to degradation by modern fuel in the way that some rubber pipes are. I would check the the jet hole isn't worn and if that is ok, then reuse them. You should check that the little pipe olive is still there.
Other than cleaning and checking the floats and valve needles, the only other thing I would do is to carefully clean the pistons and check that they move as they should. There is a timed drop test you can do, but as long as they move smoothly and make that nice clonk sound onto the bridge when tested assembled they should be ok. I think the most likely difference between the two sets could be in lateral wear of the butterfly spindles if one set has seen many more miles than the other. Worn spindles mean an air leak and difficulty then in setting them up correctly. |
| GuyW |
| Thanks Guy, that's reassuring about the flexible pipes, I really didn't want to buy new jets. I'll check for the least butterfly spindle wear and clean up and use that pair of carbs. I realise I should check needles are for a 1275. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill,
a full good clean, check and lubricate as required. As Guy has put plus I'd check the jets move smoothly off and on the car when fully connected. I'd also look at the jet needles and damper springs in case they're not standard (or matched?). You probably know the dashpot and piston are a matched pair so keep them together (the timed drop test might highlight if the pairs are mixed up). Gentle cleaning only of the inside of the dashpot (suction chamber, just remembered what it's called) and its piston with "petrol-moistened cloth" by the book. On the damper piston, after cleaning only lightly oil the outside of the damper tube/rod. Measure the insulation blocks depths and colours if you have a choice of them (21mm SU or 23mm aftermarket as far as I could tell). And very carefully check the linkage set is correct and fully operates! :) |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Thanks Nigel. I've kept them mounted on the inlet manifolds they came with so know they're correctly paired. What should I clean the outside with? T-cut, say, or is wire wool ok? I'm not going for concourse here, just tidy. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill, if you use Esso super unleaded it doesn't contain any ethanol so it won't attack the pipes or other materials such as rubber or softer alloys like brass. |
| Jeremy MkIII |
| You can buy an aerosol carb cleaner which I tried and was impressed at how well it lifted off dirt from the nooks and crannies of the castings. If you cannot find carb cleaner, then aerosol brake cleaner is much the same stuff and also very effective. |
| GuyW |
| ETA: Good point by Guy, I was assuming you'd start with something like a can of carb cleaner anyway, and worth buying for future use at servicing/maintenance or on others cars that only use cheapest petrol.
Bill, as I explained to young Cedric always start with the least abrasive and see what it does as you can't put back on excess you've taken off. If you need to go slightly more abrasive do it in very steady stages, until you take off what you want and then finish with the stuff you started with and/or lighter. I'd just start with whatever car (paint) polish floats yer boat, or windscreen polish, or light chrome polish, or very light use of a metal polish (depending how light the metal polish is some can be quite rough). If I remember I'll experiment some time tomorrow on the old carbs I've got. You could patch test with brown sauce, especially if you fancy a sausage sandwich and you normally have dripage. Wire wool has been out for many a year, now it's plastic(?) pads. I find non-scratch or medium or fine washing up pads can be good as the sponge (backing) part helps to mould to circular shape more. Clean used washing up pads will be even gentler and you're recycling. After use save the sponge part for even more cleaning use (kitchen or garage/car). If you pick up one from the kitchen be careful as apparently some of them are expensive from supermarkets(?!). |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Thanks for the tips everyone. I'll look for Esso when it's finally on the road (!). I use brake cleaner a lot - good stuff as long as you don't inhale too much! A worn scotchbright sounds a good idea - less aggressive than wire wool. I'm a fan of t-cut as well - shifts a lot of stuff. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill
Brake cleaner--" I use brake cleaner a lot - good stuff as long as you don't inhale too much! " Was that a shudder that just went through me, yes I believe it was------- Mate- Use it outside and stand upwind, it's nasty My doctor has sat me down and lectured me on the nasties of chemicals a few times and I think the bit that got me most was, she said,and she was getting upset, whatever you breath in stays in, it doesn't come out,even anything that you can just smell and even some things that are odourless, so if you want to wash your lungs out with chemicals I can't help you anymore--Drove the point home a bit Even now when I go to her, first question she asks is, what have you been using this time-- believe me ,it stays in there------ Stay safe willy |
| William Revit |
| Bill
What about refurbing the carbs including using Carb rebuild kit? Also check to see what needles are in place, what spec springs and condition they are in, as well as cleaning. I have found two different needles in a 'pair' of carbs, and neither correct for my engine (as well as broken off bits from carb body - missing parts of ears for the air filter attachment thread). Even if the inside of the tube at the base of the carbs is fine, you may find the external plastic part that the screw goes into is brittle or has been damaged by a PO with using wrong thread or sized self tapper. Cheers Mike |
| M Wood |
| Bill I don't wish to spend your money but Mike's suggestion is the route I would go for carbs unused for 10 years. I also find that unless you are going for the concours look brake or carb cleaner is fine. I have also used cellulose thinner with a nylon toothbrush to remove the tarnish and general crud. |
| Bob Beaumont |
| Electric toothbrushes are good for this sort of cleaning. Preferably not one still in use! |
| GuyW |
| Willy, noted! I'd actually read up about brake cleaner constituents recently and I concur it is quite nasty. My "inhale" comment was tongue in cheek (although I realise there's nothing funny about it) and I aim to avoid the spray as much as possible. My garage door is always open whilst working so well ventilated. But, you're right, we've probably all breathed too much nasty stuff in. I don't always wear a mask when rubbing down but know I should etc. etc.
Mike, Bob I'm sure you're right, it's just the cost of those kits. I though I'd fit one of the cleaned up pairs and if they seem hopeless will then rebuild them properly (or rebuild the other pair and swop). |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill, I have some surplus bits and pieces which I have saved but will probably never need - some new but mostly reuseable pieces. Check your carbs over and list what you need. |
| GuyW |
| Willy, you're lucky having such a caring Doctor. Bill, I've found Autogylm engine cleaner and degreaser shifts muck well and is less risky to human health than brake, carb cleaners etc. |
| Jeremy MkIII |
| Bill,
sorry forgot to include T-cut which is fine but obviously cuts more than car paint polish. Don't forget the easy, and effective, stuff like first wiping over with a rag moistened with the liquid cleaner of your choice and using a brush on the more intricate areas. Have the carbs upside down and spray to flush rinse and see where you need to go from there. I was going to fit more new carb parts recently but SU were out of stock and still seem to be but now I'm glad I didn't bother yet. New gaskets I think are a good idea at the very final assemble and fit to car. Some available seem too thin and flimsy to me but might be fine. For final polish and buff of the dashpot exteriors I'd use microfiber cloths, final buff with a full width quick action of the cloth, turning frequently, will get a good shine. Then getting a second (third) clean microfibre cloth and buffing again will add extra sparkle. Later today I'll do my experiment, it won't take many minutes to do quick spot tests (I've not got any paint restorers though). |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Sure am Jeremy- not many around like her, but the wife won't let me bring her home-----lol I'm using citrus based degreaser now, bio-degradable,doesn't stink- the only thing is you have to make sure you really rinse it off aluminium or it gets into it if you leave it on there too long |
| William Revit |
| Guy, thanks for the offer, will bear in mind.
Jeremy, Nigel, thanks. I think a problem with building up the car from scratch is that you want to get cleaning/painting/finishing of parts done as quickly as possible because there's so much to do so you don't necessarily dwell on multiple cleaning procedures. Sometimes, after fitting an original part I've wished I'd spent longer renovating it or painted it better and so on. But there's only so many hours in a day and you just want to get the thing finished. I guess it's a case of deciding when it's good enough for you. I suppose I'm going for "tidy" rather than "bling-bling". |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill,
Another vote for a full rebuild whilst they are on the bench, nothing worse than putting it all together - find its not running well and knowing you should have done it right first time ! - just my view though. I have found that the plastic pipes do harden quite a lot over time but that only seems an issue if you disturb the brass nut and the seals break up. The spindles wear badly and leak air - I've found that usually just replacing the brass spindles restores most of the wear, the ali seems to act more like a white metal bearing ? I have fitted bearings to a pair of H4's off a TR2 but getting alignment without a stepped reamer took a while in the lathe. I think I would try and make a stepped boring bar/'D' bit if I ever do it again. The jets and needles can wear - the later bias (spring loaded) ones do wear more as they rub against each other. I would start cleaning them off and dunk then in paraffin over night if they are heavily soiled. Polish is for Bling ! As has been noted only clean the inside of the dashpots/piston surface with rag as its the piston tolerance/surface that creates the suction. |
| richard b |
| Bill,
at lunch I had a quick go at cleaning/polishing-up an old carb dashpost, whilst still on the carb. I was surprised at having to use the more aggressive materials. I found a cut up piece of new and unused (medium?) washing-up (plastic?) scouring pad dry to be too scratchy for my liking but use with a spot of (Autoglym) petroleum distillate metal polish* (*see below) added it was OK. Clean off with a microfiber cloth(s). Next stage was new unused (Spontex Non Scratch, blue scouring part, (100% recycled fibres)) with a spot of metal polish, wipe off with microfiber cloth and buff polish with a second microfibre cloth. I think the sponge scourer might be the ones my wife said were expensive but it was already in the shed. The finish was good enough for me at a dull-ish sheen shine, definitely not concours and very far from bling but certainly a noticeable clean and shiny finish. Small piece(s) of pads and spot(s) of polish go a very long way and not much time is needed on this so worthwhile. A very quick final polish and buff with the (car paint type) polish (of your choice) also seemed worthwhile as a sealing finish. The dregs of the old Betterware 'Miracle Metal Cream' I had wasn't as good, forget what it contains but know the type of smell. *For a much less expensive alternative I tried a favourite cleaner of mine, Astonish 'Cream Cleaner Original' (on dry pads), it gave a slightly duller finish but easily good enough for the likes of us, it might have been better if I'd cleaned it off with a damp cloth before dry cloth but I forgot. |
| Nigel Atkins |
| I've wondered if with the bias needles if turning the fitting so the needles point in the other direction would give a bit more time before replacement is needed, the wear on needle and jet would still be there but would running on unworn surfaces make the action smoother?. What difference does it make to have the needles face whichever direction (towards or away from engine) they originally did? |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Ok, I'm convinced that they should be re-built! I really didn't want to remove them from the manifold but can see it's the right thing to do. Will take me a while as I'm doing other jobs at the same time. Nigel, thanks for additional cleaning information. Off for a pneumonia jab now... |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill, My advice is to take some pics for reassembly as its easy to forget and think which way round was that ? (DAHIKT) Also work on one at a time using the other for reference, albeit its handed. R. |
| richard b |
| Bill if you go for a rebuild kit be careful you don’t kink the new plastic pipes, it’s easy to do ! |
| Chris Madge |
| Bill,
two things from me. First, I tried the Astonish 'Cream Cleaner Original' (in 750ml blue plastic bottle, £1) on the other carb dashpot whilst still on the carb with the addition of using a damp sponge (cloth, tissue) to wipe it off before dry cloth and buffing and the finish was slightly better, I think. Even doing this the whole process - two small pieces of scourers with two small dots of cleaner, two lots damp and dry wipes and final buff polish - only took a few minutes going at a less than fast pace. The finish might be good enough for you to stop there. However when I looked for a hyperlink for the product it would appear it's no longer generally available, but I bet our local Rock Bottom shop still have access to a warehouse of the products. Second, slightly going against Richard but fully with Guy's "I have some surplus bits and pieces which I have saved but will probably never need - some new but mostly reuseable pieces. Check your carbs over and list what you need." (cut & paste to avoid misquoting :)) and extend the ideal with bits I have. New parts, including from the venerable Skinners Union, from 1904, company are not as well made as they used to be so if old stock or s/h parts can be re-used that's the way I'd go from my recent experience. (just one) Example, dashpot damper assemblies, the AUC 8114 are £18.48 each (plus P&P) and compared to those from even a number of years back have a smaller circlip and different brass damper. Although it's important to get the correct damper the part number is no longer on the cap perhaps suggests to rationalization of the range(?) I wonder other than cap how much the assemblies vary (within a range). And as I suggested to Guy, if buying new parts you might be better going to Andrew Turner (who gets them from SU anyway) as he may have stock where SU don't - and offer better info and advice. You need the float bowl tag numbers for overall model of carbs, and/or individual part numbers to confirm parts required as replacements. Cheers. |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Unfortunately, when I tried Andrew Turner for Vitron tipped valve needles as Nigel suggested, he took a long time to reply and then didn't have any in stock. One non-essential that does smarten up an old set of carbs is to lash out and buy a new set of the cheese headed screws for float lids and dash pots. On an old set of carbs these are often badly chewed up and its just much nicer to have new ones. |
| GuyW |
| Twin HS2 SU Carb Service Kit: WZX1859 Lots of suppliers stock it, from Rimmers, Minispares, Burlen to MGB Hive, but not sure if many have it in stock at the moment. Leacy may have it in stock: http://www.leacyclassics.com/wzx1859.html Parts list and carb ID: http://sucarb.co.uk/cf/vehicle/list/?manufacturer=Austin+Healey&vehicle=Sprite+MK+IV Cheers Mike |
| M Wood |
| Sorry to hear your experience of Andrew Turner was slow response.
To give SU their due they were instantly unhelpful to me, and a mate told me the of a similar experience with them. The chap I got was literally gormless as I had to make all the suggestions of initiative but I expect he and the company aren't always as poor (I hope). For practical purposes you want good screw heads but good s/h would be more in keeping of the value-adding "patina" - I might have some to offer, I'd have to check condition. |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Alternative part number for the twin HS2 carb rebuild kit CSK 59 (but everyone else seems to use the WZX number): http://sucarb.co.uk/service-kit-for-hs2-hs4-carburettors-suitable-for-various-applications.html Cheers Mike |
| M Wood |
| That's the kit I considered but it was out of stock - or full kit (but out of stock) but if I understand it correctly you still need jet needles(?) - http://sucarb.co.uk/rebuild-kit-for-hs2-hs4-carburettors-suitable-for-various-applications.html For full list of parts to Midget carb models - http://sucarb.co.uk/cf/vehicle/list/?manufacturer=MG&vehicle=Midget (I couldn't get Mike's link to open) |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Try asking Somerford Mini: http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/index.php?main_page=page&id=166 |
| M Wood |
| Most of the money in the rebuild kits seems to be for the jets so if these seem ok surely you might as well buy other parts individually, as required. But, how do you assess the condition of a jet? I've looked through SU service notes and can find no mention of this. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill,
I always seem to damage the seals/pipe ends when taking really old jets out - maybe just me ? They get quite stiff - probably the engine heat. How rushed are you to rebuild them ? I also know I have numerous spares/gaskets + I may have a new pair of Jets (they are handed) - they are the same for HS4's and I bought a set for a 'B' before lockdown but I don't think they are now needed - so not fitted - BUT they are down in Devon and I'm not sure when I'll get down there again. I have always just replaced jets and needles when doing a rebuild as I don't know if its possible to confidently say they are AOK ? |
| richard b |
| If you check out the prices of individual parts and need a few they can soon add up.
I've no idea how you'd check a jet other than fitted on the car as part of the whole assembly. I thought (but not checked since tune-up) that the rear jet on my car was worn but it still goes well/reasonably/don't-know and I expect it could perhaps be better but worth the expense and effort of changing I don't know. I do know the carbs aren't coming off again though as I had more than enough of that. There seems to be differing opinions as to how long these last. |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Holden may have the service kit in stock: https://www.holden.co.uk/p/service_kit_for_two_hs2_or_hs4_1_1_4_or_1_1_2_in
(Not sure how this differs from: https://www.holden.co.uk/p/service_kit_for_two_hs2_1_4_in) Not replacing the jet assembly, which includes the plastic tube in question feels like a false economy on a rebuild. Likely to be old brittle plastic, so potential for later leaks or failure, as well as maybe less smooth operation due to potential hardening of the tube. Drips might end up on the exhaust... Mike |
| M Wood |
| Mike I take your point that IF the tubes are likely to break then they are better changed, which was my original reason for posting. So it's more about the flexible pipes/tubes themselves than the jets, it seems. It's a pity those tubes cannot be detached from the jets so they would be a separate item. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| One of the advantage of a slow rebuild of a car is that you can dismantle, assess condition of parts and then look for and order what you need. This as opposed to working on a car in regular use where it is often necessary to judge what you might need and order parts in advance to minimise down time. Especially so when reliant on limited suppliers who may not be just down the road!
I wouldn't be ordering jet assemblies on an expectation that they might be tired. I would certainly want to inspect them first, as they may be ok, though it's often helpful to know what to look out for. |
| GuyW |
| Richard, just realised I didn't answer your question. I'll strip them in the next few weeks but there are other jobs I can do first. Quite a bit to do yet! Nigel, thanks for the kit suggestions. It seems the £40/50 or so ones contain jets, gaskets and seals while the more expensive ones include needles, spindles and bushes as you might expect. I definitely need to strip them first and see what I've got. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Well I have the carbs that came with the 1275 engine (engine in car) on the bench and, although the pistons move up and down quite well (before stripping) there is a major problem. Each float chamber has a sheared screw about level with the chamber body. Is it even worth trying to extract them? You'd surely have to be spot on with a drill but you can hardly punch those screws as I presume the aluminium of the float chamber is easily damaged rendering them junk. Also the dash pots have been painted silver although I can remove that.
Nothing to lose but time I suppose but would it be best to rebuild my other pair of carbs from the 1098 engine that came with the car? |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Would an auto/spring/wot's-it-called punch work instead? Watch your hand though as you don't want to be going to A&E. Soak in PlusGas overnight and then try a small extractor tool, do they go that small, I've always wanted to try a reverse drill bit extractor. If you drill it out you could always use a longer screw with nut under. |
| Nigel Atkins |
| Bill, if you want to persist with these then at least you know that if it goes wrong, you have a fall back.
I would start by unbolting the float chambers from the carb bodies and undo the gland nut on the jet flexible tube. If you invert them you will see that the tapping for those screws extends out as a small hole. You could squirt some good quality easing fluid in through there, and then after 24 hours or so use it as a guide to drill with a fine bit accurately up through the centre of the broken screw. |
| GuyW |
| Nigel, probably not an extractor that small but those things are brittle and can snap off. Guy, sounds good, I'll try that after a good soaking. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill, This lockdown is a bit of a problem or I would offer you the option of using my small milling machine to form a flat and them pop a small drill down the centre. After that you can often stuff a small tool down the hole and turn it out or a last resort a slightly bigger drill and try to pick out the threaded remains. The heat of drilling often helps break the grip - could try a gentle bit of heat. Give me a bell if you want some assistance. |
| richard b |
| I've never needed to try it but apparently you can use an Alum solution to remove steel screws from non ferrous parts https://musicmedic.com/removing-stuck-parts-with-alum just one page that covers the process. That mentions boiling the part in the solution but I have seen it mentioned just applying it to the problem area with something like a dropper until done it just takes longer. |
| David Billington |
| Sometimes if you drill s shallow hole near to one outer edge of the screw stub, you can then use a fine pin punch to tap it gently round to unscrew. But I think you would still need to soak easing fluid into it first as presumably it had siezed in the first place which is why it has sheared off. You could use plasticine or putty to form a dam around the screw to contain the fluid so that it has a chance to soak in properly. |
| GuyW |
| Richard, thanks, your offer is much appreciated. David, interesting, I haven't heard of that process although it says about boiling for several hours! |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill, I've seen people mention using the process without the boiling they just keep applying the solution to the area with the screw and leave it, changing the solution occasionally, instead of hours it may take days but will get the job done. Even wiki mentions it being used by jewellers and the like on the Alum page https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alum . Plenty more information about it online. Guy makes a good point about using a plasticine dam. |
| David Billington |
| If the threaded hole goes right through, or even if it doesn't, i'd give them a good soak with a penetrating fluid, then ,if there's any screw at all poking above the surface, get a fine sawblade and cut a slot for a screwdriver tip place the housing in boiling hot water for a couple of mins. to expand it and screw the screw out with a screwdriver Unless of course, someone has fitted the wrong threaded screws and they're bound up, then you would have to drill |
| William Revit |
| Thanks all, plenty of good suggestions. I'll soak them for a day or two then try the alum if no joy. Willy, not enough meat for screwdriver slot but boiling water sounds a good idea or maybe local heat. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| IF you have to resort to drilling it out,
I'd refit the lid and tighten the 2 remaining screws, then select a drill that's a neat fit in the empty hole and gently drill a centre into the broken screw- Once you've got a centre mark, then use a small drill like 1/16"with some tape around it to fit the hole in the cover(sometimes the plastic cover off wiring is good for this)and drill through the broken screw--Once this is done then you can increase the drill size and drill again I'm a bit naughty and use torx bits as easyouts on little stuff like this, If you drill it to 2.5mm a T10 bit will just tap into it nicely and it should just screw out |
| William Revit |
| Bill
Can you post a picture of the location of the screw? You could track down a secondhand float bowl assembly to bolt to your remaining carb body. I have had to replace carb parts due to PO damage (broken casting as the air filter mounting lug was damaged). The service kit comes in handy when repairing and making up such a bitsa carb. Do not throw away any bits so you have things like the correct spacer (correct mounting angle) that the mounting bolt for the float bowl to carb body uses. Cheers Mike |
| M Wood |
| Willy, thanks,noted. Mike, both carburretors have a sheared screw as shown. Out this morning so have left them soaking. 
 |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Bill Hopefully soaking with Plusgas for a few days will work. If not, some useful spare parts here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SU-Carburettors-and-inlet-manifold-HS2-1-1-4-Austin-Healey-MG-Midget/254765540976?hash=item3b5135a670:g:v-oAAOSwVFZfSqLP Cheers Mike |
| M Wood |
| Thanks Mike. Have made a bluetac "dam" as Guy suggested. Will check later. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| That first photo looks like there is enough protruding to cut a screwdriver slot in it. Do you have a Dremel? I would still soak in the easing fluid first though as the slot edges would be quite delicate. |
| GuyW |
| Willy, I like the idea of using the lid to centralise - I think I may try substituting your plastic sheathing with a small steel drilling 'button' pushed into the hole to keep it central. |
| richard b |
| Guy, there isn't as much protrusion as it looks. Just had an hour or so with it but no joy yet. I've removed one float chamber to work on, the fuel hose unscrewed easily. Need to get more drills below 3mm - they break so easily. Will leave it to soak another day I think. Off to Tesco so will look for Alum as an option. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| A technique I’ve sometimes used to remove a broken stud from cast iron, is to put a nut over the broken stud/ screw, then mig weld the two together. You then have something to grip and the heat will also tend to help loosen it. I have never tried it with a carburettor, though, so don’t know how feasible it would be. |
| Dave O'Neill 2 |
| My guess is that any attempt to weld onto the end of one of those broken screws is very quickly going to end on big bits of the pot metal castings being there no more! |
| GuyW |
| I looked on the Sainbury's and Tesco websites and couldn't find Alum listed with either searching for 'Alum' or 'pickling' which it is used for. A search for Alum sources in the UK mentioned it is often sold at Indian supermarkets as 'fatakdi powder' but I've not tried that, plenty of ebay sellers. Funnily enough I can remember seeing Alum in the spice aisle IIRC in a number of US supermarkets when I lived there but didn't know what it was. |
| David Billington |
| I think Alum is used as a coagulant to stop bleeding so you might get it at a chemists or vets. Boots, chemists, sell styptic pencils to stem bleeding on shaving nicks. I think they are alum, but you don't get much! |
| GuyW |
| Styptic powder is alum I believe. Vets sell it and so does amazon |
| Greybeard |
| Do you want a float bowl? Or are you determined to fix it? |
| Malcolm |
| Thanks for Alum source suggestions - probably ebay is best. But I think I'll try and drill and extract them first. Tesco told me it was a chemical (after the guy had googled it) and they don't "have anything like that". I resisted telling him they had bicarbonate of soda, sodium chloride and acetic acid etc.
Malc, I'm currently intending to fix it (them, as both float chambers have same problem). But I also have two more carbs I can use/ take parts from. No rush at present. Thanks for the potential offer. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| You 'could' try a concentrated flame from one of those small gas torches, --- carefully directed at just the screw, spraying plus gas on it, between applying the flame. But imo, wrong kind of metal to use heat and plus gas. You need the screws to expand enough, and that will take more heat than the bowl can stand without melting, as previously mentioned.
Much simpler to drill. I've done it before on an ally with a screw sheared in it Cut/file the screw flush with the surface. Support the lug and centre pop the screw. Drill a hole through the screw, big enough to use a needle file or mini fret saw blade, to cut to the edge of the screw in a couple of places, being careful not to penetrate the thread of the bowl. One may even be enough, and then tease the screw out. Re-tap. Bob' yer ---- .😑 |
| anamnesis |
| P.S. Noted, bottomless holes. Doesn't matter, drill right through as they are external to the bowl. |
| anamnesis |
| Thanks anamnesis, you confirm the conclusion I had come to that drilling is probably best. I'll try Willy's idea of using a torx bit to extract. At worst I wreck the float chamber(s) but I've nothing to lose. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Well I've done it, one good, one not so good. The first came out with a torx bit after drilling with a 2.5mm drill and I was pretty central. I applied heat sparingly. The second wouldn't budge, frozen solid despite two or three heat cycles and previous soaking. Plusgas doesn't seem to have much effect on aluminium oxide. I'd drilled it to 2.5mm again but was starting to damage top of hole trying to grind the screw out. So I drilled it out with a tapping size drill and re-tapped it. There's enough thread to hold a new screw and I think it will seal at the top despite some upper hole enlargement. |
| Bill Bretherton |
| Well done you! Might have been easier to just source another float chamber. But not half as satisfying as recovering these successfully! |
| GuyW |
| Indeed! |
| Bill Bretherton |
| The Torx tool idea is a new one on me. I'll remember that, nice one Willy. |
| Greybeard |
| 👍 I've got some torx in various sizes too. Next time I have a similar problem, I might try that too. |
| anamnesis |
This thread was discussed between 26/10/2020 and 06/11/2020
MG Midget and Sprite Technical index
This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS now