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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Flaring

I've bought one of the cheap flaring kits (£15ish) and am struggling to create anything approaching a decent even double flare.

The one thing I wonder is whether it's because I'm using cunifer pipe and it's just too hard for these cheap kits.

Your thoughts please.
Jeremy Cogman

No, the cheap kits are a complete and utter waste of money. I found that out the hard way too.

I borrowed a tool from a friend. And if I ever see one on ebay I am going to snap it up. Its called a MoProd easy flare, and it is so simple and so brilliant. Perfect flares everytime - even in steel!

C L Carter

The worst news is, I still have my cheap set, cos its not worth selling on ebay cos of the weight - you'd be lucky to get £5 out of it after you've covered the postage.
C L Carter

Dearer doesn't neccesarily mean better quality. I spent about £80 on one. I've done a few flares over the years but never had one of my own and since I had the whole car to do decided to get something of quality. I thought it would be an easier way of getting it done. Well all I managed was a few crappy flares then the bolts that hold the formers in place stripped. My new lines were steel line. So were the originals. I contacted the supplier who said it was only designed for Cupro Nickel yet no where did it say that.

I was told that brake lines on Uk cars are only CuproNickel not steel so implied it wasn't their fault that I expected it to do steel. Perhaps it's true don't know. Never seen CuproNickel over here. Possibly not even legal.

So what did I do? Got my barke shop to do it at £10 a line so about £60 all up. A learning experience.

Greg H

I found that cunifer is very sensitive to jagged edges. I spend an extra minute with an emery cloth to make sure it is smooth. Of course I also lube it with brake fluid.
YOu should also check the flaring tool to see it it has any nicks in it that need to be smoothed.
Trevor Jessie

I have 3 sets of cheapo here. All seem identical except a Blue Point kit which looks the same but is better machined.
I get fairly good flares but learnt that the best result comes from getting as perfect a 90 degree cut at the end of the pipe as you can. Then it doesn't wander as it compresses. I bought a small pipe cutter that looks like a C-shape with a cutter wheel inside and this makes a good square cut. It then has the inner edge reamed out with a tapered reamer and then a quick wipe round the outside with a fine mini file. I'd say about 98% of flares are as good as they can be.

Just my experience.

All of the boxes are broken in various different places. Why do they bother saving pennies on cheap plastic???
r thomas

I've managed decent flares on cunifer with a cheap kit. I've also broke the tit piece a couple of times. If I haven't made any flares in a while I usually ensure the pipe is longer than I need to allow for the first 1 or 2 cock-ups to be cut off.
Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

Greg,
UK cars generally have steel brake pipes as original, but there is a large after-market business in selling replacements in copper or cupro-nickel. Either is allowed by construction and use regulations. I prefer the cupro-nickel because it doesn't work harden like copper, so is less likely to fracture after a few years of vibration. I agree about flaring tools. Cheap ones are useless. I borrowed a really good one from a pal and it made beautiful flares every time.
Mike Howlett

The main thing is to remember to put the flare nuts on before you make the second end. I very much doubt if there is anyone who has NOT omitted this step.
Guy W

My cheapo kit came without instructions (and a broken box,--- did I ever tell you about my £12 double action airbrush?)

But by making the cut accurately square to the end and allowing "just enough" sticky outness I have been happy enough with the flares I've made, including the ones that needed the reverse flare after making the outside "ball" shape.

Keep the ends clear of fraise and you should be OK whether using steel, cunifer or cu.

It's the ends...

The ends define the job, clean and square does the job.
Bill1

Scrap the flaring tools and the hard line...for a few pennies more there is stainless steel braided hose and AN aircraft fittings...thats the direction i went....no bending or flaring, no wear out...looks great, and easy to install and assemble

If you shop on lineand look around... You can find the hose and fittings on deep sale...agian thats what i did
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Prop, photo attached for your gratification and education.



Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

Thanks for your input folks. I did put quite alot of effort into the prep. but I'll try again.

I'd appreciate your input on the amount of stick out. I currently use the depth of the die which is about 5mm.

Jeremy Cogman

Prop, I cannot disagree more with that. You should not be using fleixble pipe for any large length, I don't care if it is braided. The rule is, hardline pipes for as long as you possibly can make them. You shouldn't risk your life with brakes.

C L Carter

Jeremy,
Do you want to borrow a good set?

David
d brenchley

Danial...

Great photo...ive still go 2 sections just.like that im needing to finish

Hey carter,

Im not sure we are on the same page...this is some high end stuff, it will out last my great grand kids and i dont even have a GF to have the 1st child yet.

Im not sure where your consern would be...i do use clips every foot or so to keep it in place from getting caught in moving parts

But the stuff is virtually indestructable and can handle extremely high pressures more so then the lucas clutch and brake hydros could ever imagine on its best days

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

5mm sounmds quite a lot for the sticky out bit - I only have 2-3mm and my cheapo tool has always worked really well. If it's the same type as yours them try a bit less sticky out to stop it buckling as you form the flare. Mine is about 20 years old but looks a lot like this.

Andrew Dunn

David that is a very kind offer, thanks, please mail me off list, address above, i.e. jxxxxx@cxxxxx etc.

Daniel, how does the leftmost connector attach to the copper pipe?
Jeremy Cogman

This thread was discussed between 29/08/2012 and 30/08/2012

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