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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Frame rail repair

My plan is to order 2 new rail ends from Moss.
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29311#4
Part # 4

I'm planning on getting a mobile welder to come by and cut off the old ones, and weld on the new.
If I have radiator supports and inner fender, I'll get it all welded up at one time.

From there, it should be a matter of finding fenders, a valance and bonnet.

A new radiator, oil cooler, horns, etc. a little paint, and Bob's your uncle I'll have my car back

Am I oversimplifying?

Phil

Phil Burke

Phil,
I would do the cutting and fittings myself. Then have the mobile welder stop by and weld it up. That way you can be very meticulous about the fit. All you need is a cheap HF grinder and cutoff wheels and some small clamps and some scrap angle iron.
Trevor Jessie

Does anyone have the angle or rise and run of the frame ends? Does Moss supply this or are the angles pre cut?
So many questions, I'm glad you all are here to back me up.
Phil
Phil Burke

Hi Phil,


I probably have those parts and I can save you some money on them. If your interested please e-mail me at bscr@bscr.com and we can go from there.

Regards,


Ken Lamers
KL Ken

The upward bend actually starts behind the front crossmember. You can clamp the the scrap angle iron on the bottom portion that remains and then you'll have the vertical alignment taken care of. Then it is a matter of horizontal alignment and possible length.

Ken didn't mention that he is a Moss distributor. I've purchased a few things from him in the past and was satisfied with the service.
Trevor Jessie

Phil,
The front frame rails that you are replacing continue the slope of the rails immediately behind. The rise is at an angle of 3 degrees, with the change in angle just behind the rearmost of the lower wishbone brackets.

I would get a piece of angle iron, or similar rigid guide and clamp this to the underside of the frame rail, extending from the rear wishbone bracket forwards and then clamp the replacement extension piece at the front to this. Align it all so that it is positioned accurately and then weld in place.

PS Just as Trevor says!
Guy

When I repaired one side of mine, due to a rusted anti-roll bar mounting, I cut off the end, and inserted a steel box section, leaving a bit protruding for the new end to fit over.

That fixes the new end, both vertically and horizontally, and adds additional strength. That's why I suggested it earlier. :).

Lawrence Slater

I thought they were supposed to deform with minor impact, the way they have done. Surely reinforcing them could cause damage further back in case of another impact?
Dave O'Neill2

just my thoughts now as someone who knows zero about weilding - if you're hiring a general weilder that doesn't specialise in car body/chassis repairs then you need to have everything exactly as required for him just to do his welding and no more

these type of jobs as far as I can see are measure, check and offer up, over and over again, many times multipule of checking and preparation to a short time of actual welding

I'm perhaps being over cautious but if I was the hired welder I would stress that the resposiblity is yours for alignment before I started welding

yes I'm a glass half empty type, and the glass is cracked and dirty and I didn't want the drink anyway
Nigel Atkins

Dave I dont think that crumple zones were a big thing on spridgets back then. But I guess you might have a point for this type of impact.

I just don't like but welds much, and prefer to have something to weld into, as these ends hold the anti roll bar.

And I agree with you Nigel. Make sure the guy you hire understands the need to alignment, and not just a decent weld.
Lawrence Slater

Aside from providing an anchor point for the anti-roll bar and radiator supports, the front rail extensions dot appear to have any effect on the alignment of the car.
Am I missing something?

Would square stock welded over the last 1/2" of the old extensions be preferable to a replacement being welded to the frame, perhaps with angle iron gussets added?
Phil Burke

The most important thing is to have the front valance, bonnet and wings right before you weld it up!
The valance sits on the ends against the rad support and these give the biggest part of the alignment for the front.

So cut off
Fit
Tack on
Then trial fit the complete front and adjust
Tear down
Finish welding
Onno K

Even when you think you have it perfect, you will probably still need to elongate a few holes to get all the panels to line up.
Trevor Jessie

Phil, get the correct replacemenet parts, the two frame rails and the two radiator supports which align the entire front clip are only a bit more than $100 from either VB or Moss. I had to replace them on my car, it's not difficult and you'll have the correct locations for the sheet metal and fron sway bar.
B Young

This thread was discussed between 07/01/2012 and 09/01/2012

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