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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - gearbox noise

Hi all
An unwanted noise has gradually become apparent over the last thousand miles. It is presumably from the gearbox, as it makes a strange "whirring" sound when easing off the accelerator. (standard 1275 ribbed case). Most noticeable in 2nd gear when slowing down. Is this a portent of major troubles ahead? The box changes gear very cleanly, up and down, apart from one instance of jamming in 1st after a 1/2 mile slow crawl down a steep track, and a tendency to slip out of 1st when ascending the same track. The transmission as a whole is a bit noisy, especially at speed, but this could well be diff, or bearings.
What would people in general suggest? Swap for another 2nd hand box, remove and have this one rebuilt, or buy a recon box?
Dom.
Dominic Excell

A ...2 for 1

Carefully you know what happens to worn out trannys getting to be friends.... I dont want to know ....hahahs

Yes....raylon is having a time with his also

Im going to say just off the bat... U-Joint going bad

Did you check the oil level in the tranny... it wouldnt be the 1st time a ribby leaked its motor oil

Remember the fluid for the ribby is 20/50w motor oil

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Oil level is fine Prop, replaced less than 4000 miles ago (with 20/50), checked 500 miles ago and totally dry underneath. Good point about U-joints, will check those too. They could account for some of the general noise, in particular the rhythmic "thrum-thrum" noise that gets louder the faster you go? It sounds though when on the over-run that bearings on some spindle or other might be chattering when forward loading is released? (Apologies, I know little about the mysterious workings of gearboxes!)
Dominic Excell

Hi Dominc,

I found the noise was unbearable with the roof up, ok when it was down.

I had a noisy gearbox, bad in first, horrific in 2nd and 3rd sort of ok in 4th.

Changing gear was slick and easy.

Took it to Klassic Transmissions, they showed me the bits that came out, "one of the worst we have seen" !

The bearings has disintegrated, the shafts the bearing run on were heavily worn, most of the teeth were chipped.

Motto ? Rebuild the gearbox when you can no longer stand the noise !!! :)



Malc
Malc Gilliver

Dom,
see Rylan's thread on g/box (and costs)

personally I wouldn't buy a s/h box as it's likely not to be good by now, a recon box needs to be done to a good standard so will cost a bit, (more than £425 too) - so you might as well either go for a properly reconditioned box or have yours done

I think Malc has the right idea, put up with it as long as you can or until you have enough spare cash

I get "thrum thrum" and AFAIK it's the diff, I've replaced the oil (for 75w/90 synthetic) but to be honest I don't think it's any quieter but at least I know the oil is fresh (again) and up to level and helping the diff as much as possible - make sense too that it gets louder the faster you go

I only notice it with the hood up up so another reason to keep the roof down as much as possible

I think UJ are more of a clonk but you can get them with grease nipples so check for that
Nigel Atkins

Yeah... I got to go with nigial, rear diff sounds more like the issue


Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Prop,
do you mean Daniel or Nigel :D




... Daniel told Prop off for spelling his name wrong

I don't think Prop often gets my name right but I consider it a honour that he mentions my name :D
Nigel Atkins

Dom, when it is "whirring" have you tried the various tricks to isolate which part of the transmission is actually generating the noise? Obviously when driving and slowing down in gear the whole system is spinning. When driving along try:

Light brake pedal pressure will sometimes isolate a whirring from brakes or rear wheel bearings.

Swinging the steering from side to side will alternately put more pressure on the bearings on one side and the other. Usually for checking front bearings but will highlight a rear wheel problem as well.

Snick the car into neutral. Propshaft, clutch and engine still spinning. But gearbox more or less stationary. Listen?

Into neutral with clutch down. Does the take up of clutch release bearing maybe quieten it?

Into neutral with engine switched off (but avoid activating the steering lock!) Only stuff rotating is now from gearbox output shaft and back to wheels.

Just might help you diagnose what is generating the noise and what therefore you can or need to do about it.
Guy W

Thanks for the input chaps. I have a spare diff which I may well change to. I'm sure that when the halfshaft snapped, the splinters would not have helped it, though the thrumming noise was there already.
Good plan Guy - I'll try that set of diagnostic tests. Steering lock won't be a problem - (unless I battle with a krooklok as I'm moving...) there ain't one! Wheel bearings are still suspected, but I now have new old stock RHPs to play with.
Incidentally, both sets were Morris Minor sets, one a Unipart and the other an RHP boxed set. The Unipart (GHK1142) set smaller bearing has a strange outer ring, being only half width. I suppose it would be ok to use, as the thrust is only to the inside of the ring, the outer part not doing much!
Dominic Excell

Hi Dominic, if you are looking to get the gearbox rebuilt, another vote for Ken at Klassik Trans. A very friendly service and a very reasonable price. As Malc says all replaced parts are kept to show what work has been carried out.

The only issue is they are a bit hard to find the first time you visit!!

Thanks
Mark
Mark Whitmore

Cheers Mark. I may well look out for a reasonable 2nd hand one, and get him to overhaul it so I can merely swap over, without having to have the car off the road for a great length of time.
Dominic Excell

I love coffee, and the gearbox reminds me of the noise the coffee grinder makes.
Graeme Williams

Tried grinding the coffee in the diff - tasted horrid though Graeme,
Dominic Excell

Dom: red card, mate - mentioning front wheel bearings!

(Some of the smaller outer bearings have an outer race which is only half the width of the inner race. IIRC it makes them slightly more difficult to fit as the tight fit is on the outer race going into the hub but the "set back" face is quite difficult to get a suitable drift on to. The temptation is to put the drift onto the inner race and whack it on that way, which puts the shock load through the balls (!) )
Graeme Williams

Dom,
the only thing with fitting a spare diff is it might be worst than the existing one - have a look in the Archives about what to check before fitting or put up a new thread
Nigel Atkins

Dom

If it really is the transmission.... a little trick thats popular here in the USA, and ive used it to very good success

Remove no more then 1/2 quart ... normally about 1/3 of the oil in the transmission and replace it with "lucas oil treatment" or slick 50.... I like the lucas much better

It makes old poor worn out engines run like new and almost noise free....and because the ribby 4 speed uses motor oil... it works exactly the same way

I did find that lightly heating up the lucas oil treatment made it much easier to flow it into the ribby 4 speed....because it is very thick

But for me, it made a huge differance in its proformance and the level of noise, and lasted several years till I replaced with a 5 speed datsun

Trying it wont hurt anything....its only $15 and an hour under the car...if it works great, if not... then what have you really lost

Some have said in the arcives about possiable negitives, I never experianced any....only the positives.

It wont cure a worn out tranny, but it will certianly extend the life substantially before simething must be done.

Id have no issue putting my old ribby back in as is ... if I had to.

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Opps...ive been calling it

Lucas oil treatment... its actually called lucas oil stabilizer

http://www.lucasoil.com/articlelist1-20/0/LucasSyntheticOilStabilizer

Prop

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

<<Dom: red card, mate - mentioning front wheel bearings!>>
You should have noticed by now Graeme that I'm a provocative sort of chap!
I'll probably strip the old bearing and use the outer as a drift - certainly don't want to shock the balls! Makes the eyes water at the thought....

Nigel - the spare diff looks and feels ok - so I may well fit it and try it - if worse, it's not the end of the world, as an easy enough job to fit. I'll have a trawl through the archives anyway!

Prop - cheers mate, I may well give that Lucas stuff a try if it is the g/box.
Dominic Excell

I think you will be surprised...

Just remember... 1/3 of a quart ... and not much more

1 qt lucas treats a large V8...5-6 qt

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Dominic,

I know the noise you've described, I'm having the same problem. Tried all possible checks and it MUST be the gearbox. The only long-term solution seems to be reconditioned unit or swap to the 5-speed. Never tried Prop's oil stabilizer, may be will give it a try too.

I even have a Ford type 9 5-speed box in my garage, but still didn't find enough reasons for swap. I like 4 speed rib box, it changes gears easily, everything works great. Only that noise when easing off the accelerator. And by the way - it is getting worse. No matter how often I change the oil or if it is synthetic or 20w50...

Stepan

Stepan Marek

40 years ago there was a ready fix for noisy gearboxes, and diffs. A couple of handfuls of sawdust worked wonders!
Guy W

Leave it to guy to introduce red neck hill billy engineering solutions....hahaha

I would have expected that from the likes of my kind, but guy????,

Im so imbarressed to say ive ever known guy.... what a sad day, just when you think you know someone, the "duck dynasty" virus sets in and takes over

Hahaha

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Plenty of sawdust here Guy - been making cupboards, shelves skirtings and a plate rack / picture rail for our dining room. I have bags full! Maybe I should sell it on ebay as a gearbox re-conditioner....
Dominic Excell

IIRC the sawdust trick was more for when the car was about to be sold
Nigel Atkins

True, here in Eastern Europe this saw dust trick worked, especially for Lada, Ziguli and other russian cars ;)
Stepan Marek

Can you imagine trying to force feed to hand fulls of saw dust into the ribby 4 speed. Its hard enough just to get 2qt of oil in and its a liquid

Prop

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I never used sawdust on a synchro gearbox. But, seriously, it worked fine on a noisy Austin 7 three speed box. And no, Nigel, I wasn't about to sell it!

"Knowledge" at the time was that it had to be softwood, not hardwood sawdust as it absorbed oil better.

Admittedly, it might be hard to get it into a ribcase. And I don't know what effect it would have on the operation of the sychromesh.
Guy W

Sawdust was the classic second hand car dealer bodge for a noisy gearbox or diff. The other 'additive' was old nylon stockings. The way to get it in on boxes with small orifices was either to mix it with oil and squirt it in or put in through the gear stick orifice which is usually bigger. I also heard of potato peelings but that may be wrong!! I speak as the son of a late South london dealer who was 'shown the ropes'
Bob Beaumont

Yes I had heard of Nylon stockings for this, but never seemed to have a pair handy in the garage when required. They were also the recommended repair for a broken fan belt, especially when the fan belt snapped late at night whilst parked in a quiet layby.
Guy W

Guy, you and these old wives remedies. LOL. Nylons and sawdust in gearboxes, and Grass in tyres -- from another thread somewhere. There's a thought, fill the g/box with hay. That should make it quieter. lol.

I tried the grass in the tyre trick when I was about 13, cycling back from Brighton to London. Didn't work for me, and at about 2am I had to call out my grandad from Croydon to collect me in Redhill. I was knackered, hungry, bloody freezing, and in trouble for dragging him out of bed. lol. He was especially pissed off because he couldn't get my bike in his Wyvern, and had to drive me to Redhill with a new inner tube the following day to get it. LOL
Lawrence Slater

Lawrence,
Old wives' tights are no good. They have to be young girlfriends' tights.
Guy W

And you obviously used the wrong sort of grass. 2 am indeed!
Guy W

Grass in tires... id think that would make them wear faster from the munchies....Lol

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

You may jest Guy, but just like the wrong type of snow, there was a connection to British Rail. Having failed to make the grass do it's job, I had to walk, and ended up at Redhill rail station at that time of the morning. No trains.
Lawrence Slater

Hi All

The gearbox on my wife's sprite was making the same noise and very rattly at the gear-stick as well.

Tried fitting all new anti rattle bits to the gear-stick, no improvement.

Made a lot of noise in first and apparently all the way through the box. Only when the wife drove but to be fair the car had been off the road for 18 months and I vaguely remember it doing the same before it came off.

I took it for a test drive as bedding the reconditioned engine in stuck it in first at traffic lights to go over a bridge. Got to the top and tried to change to second and no joy. It would not budge. Clutch worked fine just the gear lever would not move.

So after two weeks after getting the engine in the whole lot came out again, lucky I had a good know spare which I have put in and now no noise.

Yet to take the old box apart to have a look but that will be way down my list!

Hope you get it sorted
Shaun


Shaun

Well I tried holding the clutch pedal in while coasting in top gear at about 40-ish today - the noise level immediately dropped, that awful whining thrumming sound disappeared completely. Gearbox?
Dominic Excell

Hi Dom, interesting!

Maybe not definitive, but logically it seems:
It makes the noise at 40mph in gear, under power.
If you press the clutch, but still in gear the noise stops.
As it is still in gear the gearbox internals are all still whizzing around, as are the prop shaft, diff, rear hubs wheels. So if any of those were the source of the noise you would expect it to continue, although possibly at reduced level as the system is not conveying power.
It rather suggests that the noise is generated by the clutch in some way. Probably by the clutch release bearing which stops whirring when it is steadied up when depressed? (sad even!).

I am not sure how much difference there might be in a noise level between gearbox internals rotating because they are being pulled around by the rear wheels, and rotating when being driven by the engine. If there was a lot of difference, then you would probably notice a distinct variation in noise level between accelerating and overrun. Given your symptoms and tests so far, it would be noisier under power.

If you can find an empty bit of road you might try driving at 40. Slip into neutral and switch the engine off. Engine, clutch, clutch release and most of gearbox internals stop spinning and noise should stop.

Whatever, it is going to be an engine out job to fix. (ignoring the tights, potato peelings and sawdust remedies). If it is the clutch release that at least is a lot cheaper than a gearbox repair*. But it really helps to narrow down the source of the noise whilst you can and before you strip down. Nothing worse than stripping something down and then not being able to see anything clearly faulty. Then the doubts start to creep in!

Don't take my word on this - I am only exploring ideas. Paul or someone with wider practical experience may have suggestions.

*note if you do have the 'box out there is a simple remedy (not involving sawdust) to stop the thing from jamming in 1st gear again. It involves fitting a spacer or shim on the selector shaft and can be done through the side inspection cover.

Guy W

Itdoes sound as if its the clutch realease in some way. However you mentioned that the gearbox jumped out of gear and has jammed once. This suggests wear on the fisrt gear ring/layshaft. The jamming in 1st an also mean the mainshaft has a bit more movement and the 6 thou shims on the mainshaft bearings may have disintegrated. While its all out I would get the box overhauled.
Bob Beaumont

Bob,
When my ribcase repeatedly jammed in first (pre type 9 days) it was because the 1st gear hub was pushed too far along its splines and the detent balls popped out. Or partially popped out since it was possible to force it back out of gear whilst on the move. The gear hub was being pushed too far by the selector fork, and this in turn was moving too far along its shaft because of wear in the fork.

The fix was to add a copper washer between the selector fork and the casing to limit its movement. The easier fix is a forked spacer that can be fitted without dismantling the box. (discussed quite recently and sincere apologies but I cannot remember who posted the photo of the clever spacer device.

But I agree, a gearbox check and possibly overhaul by a specialist would seem like a good idea.
Guy W

Guy

The reason why the hub gear was pushing beyond the detent balls is because the hub is 'floating'. Bit difficult to describe in print. The ist gear ring carrier has a degree of movement but if the mainsaft/ist motion shaft have excessive movement due to wear or missing bearing shims then this allows the indent balls to pop out. My former other half used to work at the BL as a management trainee and was trained on the assembly of A series and Marina boxes. It was a revelation when she showed me how it all worked and the need to pay carefull attention on assembly. She used to prepare my race gearboxes and I never had one fail!
Bob Beaumont

What about the rubber boot that the fork fits into...if thats parished, It can mimic many of the issues we are talking about

They do dry out and crack ....making for a nasty shift and alot of noise

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

My lever "buzzes" if I lightly hold it as I change gear and I see Moss do a kit which is supposed to stop that. Anyone know what is in the kit?
Graeme Williams

I bought one. It contains a new nylon cup washer, spring and O ring. I also replaced the brass plunger and spring. Made a bit of difference but it still buzzes!
Bob Beaumont

Graeme,
most suppliers will do the kit it's just those three parts put together

Bob,
earlier (A-series) cars have a different gear lever with a single cover plate and later cars have two, sometimes things can get mixed up or put in wrong order or earlier parts on later cars or visa versa

I think there was a thread with details not so long back or have a look at a parts catalogue
Nigel Atkins

Thanks Nigel
I,ve got the older lever with the single plate. I'll buzz off now.........
Bob Beaumont

Bob,
perhaps that's one reason why they changed to the later bushed lever

I wonder if fitting the later two plate/covers would help you or make it worse(?)
Nigel Atkins

Could be. I see the lever has a metal cylinder in the middle presumably to act as a damper so I would need this as well as the plates. My lever also has a slight crank on it so you don't bash your knuckles on the dashboard when selecting 1st. if I can get the bits it may be worth an experiment.
Bob Beaumont

I can't remember now but guess the other lever has a rubber bushing like the Ford gear levers - and it's even more cranked

perhaps you only need this type of lever and your single plate or a combination and mix of part but I don't know, I don't even know for sure if the levers are interchangeable

but if they are and if you don't know if your g/box is original to your car then perhaps you might have the wrong lever fitted now (lots of ifs and no certainties there though)

I can't remember those plates being available new 15+ years ago but I bet there are a few going spare s/h that how I got mine back then

ETA: hopefully others will be along that know more and can confirm or say I'm wrong (yet again)
Nigel Atkins

so to sum up Nigel either doesn't know or can't remember.
David Smith

remember what?

I can't even remember if I don't know, I can't remember the lever and fittings that were on my present Midget before the type-9 conversion let alone previous Spridget that saw three different gearboxes

I alllllmost put in my last post perhaps Dave or David might turn up and give the correct answer (remembering the fun we, sorry I, had previously about these levers, not as much as 'three springs' of course)

and you did but you didn't
Nigel Atkins

OK chaps - Just done a run on a quiet road, and at about 45mph slipped into neutral, the whiny thrumming noise then goes away. Likewise, clutch depressed in any gear, the noise disappears. Swinging from side to side to load & unload wheel bearing forces, no difference. The "chirruping" as the revs pass 2000 on the over-run is still evident too. All points to a new/recon gearbox I guess.....
Going to swap the diff anyway for a good low mileage one I think, to see if it makes any difference. Will also replace the rear bearings for new old stock ones so I can "fit & forget".
Dominic Excell

hi dom.
had this problem with my car. didnt know whether diff or box.dipped clutch and noise went pointing to box as you say.but it wasnt in my car it was the diff.noise only there under load not when coasting. i dropped the prop and run car up to 60mph no noise thats how i found out.
regards bob.
bob taylor

Cheers Bob
I hope to find out tomorrow if all goes well. Changed the bearings for new old stock RHPs and replaced a worn rubber boot from the slave cylinder. Diff should come out tomorrow, the "new" one looks and feels ok with not much wear, and also not too much backlash. Fingers crossed!
Dominic Excell

Did you ever try the lucas oil stablizer in the gear box ???

Remember... these gear boxes have a lot of slop in them, not exactly a modern day box, are you sure the noise your hearing isnt normal....my orginal and replacment box es where never a quite box like the datsun 5 speed

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Dom,
What ratio is the old diff. you are taking out? I might be interested in buying it off you!
Guy W

Hi all
The rear bearings are now replaced, and the diff was swapped over today. It has made a difference though that "chirping" is still there, so Prop, I'll be trying the Lucas treatment as you suggest. Nothing to lose really, if it gives me time to save up for gearbox repairs it'll pay for itself. It has made the front bearings much louder though! I guess as the rest of the car is now quieter....

Guy, the diff is a 3.9 - it's on ebay - item 310786201169 if you want to have a look. (let me know it's you if you want to make an offer, I can be more flexible pricewise with a mate off here)
Next job I guess is the front wheel bearings - is it a particularly awkward job? Easy enough on a Morris Minor with the drums, but never tried disk braked hubs before.

Another job that needs re-doing is one of the rear brake cylinders, which insists on rubbing its' rubber dust cap against the drum, no matter what I try doing. It has been modified with the screw fixing rather than the dreaded e-clip, and I think that this might be causing it to misalign itself. I might just bite the bullet here and replace the cylinder using the circlip method, hopefully easier with genuine old stock unipart circlips. I just lack the confidence to disturb the hydraulics.

Why does work have to get in the way?!!
Dominic Excell

Hi Guy
Sorry, the diff has sold, someone came round to buy it tonight.
Dom
Dominic Excell

Ah, pity, I missed your message last night and have been driving back from Hertfordshire today. If I had known, I could have swung by on my way north.
Guy W

"Next job I guess is the front wheel bearings - is it a particularly awkward job?"

Nope it's easy. The difficulty is in obtaining and using the correct bearings. Suggest you read the archives on FWBs before you buy any new ones from Moss/Sussex/Morris etc. If you have some NOS RHP fwbs, then you won't have any problem at all.
Lawrence Slater

Dom....

You know im your friend... step away from the tool box, your about to have sex with hedas himself....hahaha

The real circlip is a joke on you, its not very doable...stay with the M1 little screw modification

Wheel bearing....oh god,

Lawerance is correct... doing the deed is fairly straight forward, finding the correct bearing....not so much

They no longer make the correct bearing so if you find old new stock....its around $300 aside for the 2 bearings

The problem is the radi of the wheel hub bearing holder is a differant degree then the radi of modern day bearings ....so its like fitting a round ball into a pyramid triangle

Several popular options to counter....my thought, look into the "taper bearing" modification its cheap and easy..if you do it correctly

Good luck buddy

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

IIRC Dom knows all about the great FWB hoarding and bought prior stock before it could be depleted by out of county visitors ;)
Nigel Atkins

By the way...dont belive the moss sellers hype that there bearing is correct....its sort a close

If you dont have play in your wheel bearings ...leave them and pack them with grease on the hub...non disassembled

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I have 2 sets of bearings - both RHP Lawrence. One has a slimmer outer ring than the other, but then the non thrust side is I guess a waste of metal except for helping to seat it in the hub... (and your memory serves you well Nigel!)
As far as the rubber dust boot on the brake cylinder goes, the replacement I fitted on Saturday lasted a good 4 miles. I spoke to a local MG mechanic, Andy Schultz of Cuerden Classics, and he assured me that 19 out of 20 midgets have the same problem, and that in his opinion after many years of observations, the best thing is to do away with the recalcitrant boot, and merely run it without. He has yet to see any problems thrown up by this in many years of servicing and restoring MGs.
So, as the boot has split completely, and fallen off into the handbrake mechanism, it can stay off!
I may well one day make up new backplates, and fit them up on the bench with new cylinders and e-clips where it's easy to get at them! Old stock clips are waiting, they have a totally different look to the new ones, properly finished and made from heat treated blued steel.
Dominic Excell

Dominic,
Don't forget / omit the paper gaskets with the rear wheel cylinders. Without, and the cylinder will have too much slop when the circlips are fitted. The paper gasket takes up the slack, compressing slightly as the E clip is fitted.
Guy W

Thanks Guy, I'll remember! Bought some Borg & Beck cyls the other day, complete with the gaskets and rather tinny looking e-clips that look as if they'd bend as soon as you looked at them. No wonder they don't fit properly....
Just need to find a left side backplate now, as on mine the strap that supports the adjuster has been split at the centre point where it's at the thinnest. Either that or make a new strap and have it welded on.
I always like to though, if possible, make up assemblies on the bench while keeping the car on the road, then swap over to save on down time!
Dominic Excell

Dom,
I've just realised, have all these noises got worse since fitting a heavy and unnecessary hardtop - if so remove it, keep the soft top down and go for a spirited drive - I better the noises will be less and you forget them whilst driving :D

no don't thank me as it was all really obvious once I realised :D
Nigel Atkins

Guy,

If your stuck for a diff, next time your down this way let me know - sure we can sort one out from the spares stash.
Can't be *rsed with packing large bits these days.

R.
richard boobier

Nigel, I sold the hard top on - didn't like the way the bolt on brackets to the windscreen were poised above the cranium ready to knock a hole through in the event of a very minor shunt. Also a right pain fitting it! Decided to live with the soft top for the time being.
Just think of the weight saved - no wonder the axle case sprung a leak from the extra loading...
Dominic Excell

Richard, thanks for that offer. I will bear it in mind. I have a 4.2 for my Frog - when I get to that stage - but as I am putting a 1098 engine in it I think it would benefit from a 3.9 diff. I don't get down to Somerset very often, but will probably be visiting Greg (who you met) some time next spring.
Guy W

Guy,

Mine are 3.9's have a 3.7 but may try that myself one day.

Certainly no rush to move on.

Regards,

R.
richard boobier

Dom,
I think even the car was trying to tell you something about hardtops !

make sure the car knows for certain that the hardtop has gone and I bet things improve

you'll find the soft top very easy to live with especially if you cleaned the cooling/heater system as I did and your partner can decide how much she wants her feet and legs overheating with the roof down or you totally over heated with the roof up

each time you're out this autumn, winter and spring with the top down just think if you'd have missed that opportunity if you had a hardtop fitted
Nigel Atkins

Ohh things are fine Nigel, - staged improvements ongoing, no surprises, all planned (apart from rubber boots to the brake cyls) Already a marked improvement noisewise, feels much smoother too. Cooling system is in A1 condition, the car could almost double as an oven...apart from new hoses (PO fitted a couple of years ago)which are showing signs of crazing already. Will try and source black fabric covered silicone hoses. Time for it's next service already after the initial major catch-up service you so wisely suggested.
Dominic Excell

you'll be fine Dom you and your partner know to wrap up a bit, a hat for your partner's hair and a tight fitting cap for your, er, head and you can enjoy the lovely invigorating and bracing dry and sunny weather we get a lot of usually outside of summer

if the hoses have been on for two years and just crazing then they're twice as long lasting already than most new ones - contact Classic Silicone Hoses, see the finishes here (Old Style Wrap or black/grey style) - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/product-options/

comparison photo - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/product_options_black_large.jpg

the standard set is a very good price compared to some other sets I've seen and the quality is good main hoses triple ply (and mine where a bit long which is much better than being a bit short, I had enough to make up a few short head bypass hoses)

ETA: I'd guess the standard black glossy ones are the lower priced but I don't know, I think that's all they did when I bought mine

as for servicing it's an ongoing thing that why you want to get in as much use as possible to justify the servicing fully
Nigel Atkins

ETA: don't forget to use rounded edge clips on them, I might be wrong but I think I encouragement them to sell sets of clips (as you know I'm full of good ideas and opinions and don't mind forcing them on people)

just seen in the customers car my mate's car so it looks like even he took my advice on the hoses, he never mentioned it ! or that he'd sent photos in !! (the tart)

my car was never showy enough for me to feel right to send them a photo for their gallery
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 27/08/2013 and 05/11/2013

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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