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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Hub Pulling

There was a sort of inevitability about this.

The hub nut came off with a bit of leverage, but I can't shift the hub. I've got a couple of pullers - the three-legged ones - but it's surprisingly stubborn, as in utterly immovable.

Any experiences welcome.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

How are you "pushing" on the rear axle ? I used an old wooden screwdriver handle with a dimple in the end to hold the "pusher" in place.

If you get it tight and the hub is not moving, a hammer in the right place can often get it to break.
Tim C

I made up a bespoke puller out of odd bits,

I used a piece of Unistrut channel and two old Rostyle wheel nuts that I cut the ends off with a couple of bolts that thread into the old wheel nuts + large washers. This allows me to use the wheel studs to pull against.
I machined an oddment of steel to fit into the axle end and centred it for the puller bolt. I then use the nut off my two leg puller inside the channel and the puller bolt with its pointed end to apply the pressure.

It works a treat - resistance is futile !
I’ve loaned it out and others found it works nicely.





richard b

For what it’s worth, thought mine were stuck fast , I put the brake drum back on backwards and the wheel nuts on a couple of turns and used it like a slide hammer both came off with a bit of effort.
Mike Fairclough

Tim - did you really manage with a timber pushing pad? I tried a tough piece of old oak across the axle end, and the pusher bolt went all the way through.

Also tried a stepped double socket with a knackered 1/4" drive smaller socket inside, and lots of grease.
That's the one I probably should have added a little hammering to when it was tight.

Richard, I bows down and worships your ingenuity and engineering. I wish you lived in Hereford.

Mike, I like it. Back to the job now.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

I must have been lucky. My hubs had been in place for at least 32 years but I don't remember them being too stuck. Sorry Nick, no help! Do you still have the Axminster in the garage? Real class.
Bill B

Yep. Reverse the hub and use as a slide hammer.

You can also use the reversed hub, with a suitable 'something' against the axle, using the wheel nuts that you gradually evenly tighten, to pull the hub off.



anamnesis

Tried the slide hammer, but I think I needed my Avatar, who is wonderfully fit with strong wrists.

But, hooray! I used my other, smaller three-legged puller, and it pulled the hub without drama. The thread of the pushing bolt is much finer than the other - that's what I put it down to.
Am I right in thinking that a finer thread gives me a mechanical advantage?

Yes Bill. The Axminster is still lovely to lie on, but on the downside it needs regular maintenance.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Next step in the "My First Rear Axle" playbook.
The manual says, "the bearing and oil seal can now be removed . . . by pressing out".
But I don't want to press against the inner race - it doesn't seem right. How do you do it?

View of the Axminster.

Nick and Cherry Scoop

It's the only way, I'm afraid.

You're fitting new bearings anyway, aren't you?

I used to use a small piece of softwood that fitted through the oil seal and contacted the inner race. The bearings would come out with a light tap or two. They never seemed particularly tight. Maybe my hubs were worn!
Dave O'Neill 2

Thanks Dave. Yes, I'm fitting new seals and bearings.

Oddly, the left-hand hub was too easy. I put the spanner on the nut, and the weight of the handle turned it while I was reaching for my short scaffold pole. Then the hub came away while I was turning the pusher bolt with finger and thumb.
I assume somebody had a reason to do one side only, back in the mists of time.

I expect I'll be back soon to find out how the seal and bearing are put back in. For now, thank you very much.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

There are tools made for removing deep groove ball bearings without pressing on the inner race such as https://www.skf.com/uk/products/maintenance-products/mechanical-tools-for-mounting-and-dismounting/bearing-pullers/deep-groove-ball-bearing-puller . I've never used one and it's likely pricey, as it's being replaced why bother. I usually keep old races as they make accurate width spacers.

Because of the usual nature of the bearing fit in the housing I expect if you were to support the assembly on the axle side inner race and heat the hub then after a short time the hub will expand and fall off the bearing.
David Billington

Nice looking piece of kit.

Simply Bearings sell it for £829 + VAT

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=20060098&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22903570717&gbraid=0AAAAAD-_g0FvNjdObahRXOerLGgSve753&gclid=CjwKCAjw1IHTBhAaEiwA4AYNFjlqkwNE1gY3rTccpcvU2CTmT1UQzi-UAqgCclmeK-D0sH011dazkRoC8mUQAvD_BwE
Dave O'Neill 2

Just the thing to have in the workshop in a case behind glass, "break in case of emergency". Reassuringly expensive but to be expected from SKF as they don't produce cr*p.
David Billington

The seal was an absolute sod to dig out, and the new one difficult to push in. But I'm ready to get the hub back on the axle. I can see that the lip seal won't just happily dilate to ride over the shoulder. Is there an approved method for pressing the hub on?
Nick and Cherry Scoop

The seal should go onto the end of the axle quite easily. A quick smear of oil will help it on its way.

If you have a large socket that will sit on the inner race of the bearing and clear the thread on the end of the axle, you can gently tap it into place. Make sure it’s sitting square before you tap it home.
Dave O'Neill 2

Thanks Dave. I used a 40mm plastic waste pipe.
Strangely, the hub that didn't want to come off didn't want to go back on.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Nick

You said that the left nut wasn't that tight and the hub came off easily. I would suggest that it had been off before and whoever did it, didn't tighten the nut, which has probably allowed the bearing to turn on the axle.

As long as you can tighten it fully, it should be OK.
Dave O'Neill 2

Yes, it might well have been that, Dave. It loosened so easily, while I wasn't looking.
It seems the only components which can inhibit the pushing on of the hub are the axle tube and the inner bearing race, and I assume the bearing is dimensionally accurate; so the axle on the right side must be taking "interference fit" more seriously than the left. I polished both very beautifully, but the right-hand side needed hammering home (wooden mallet), and the last couple of threads had to be coaxed out into the open by turning the hub nut on a slippery washer.

I think what I have will be okay. We only potter about these days.

Who sells the best brake shoes?
Nick and Cherry Scoop

This thread was discussed between 20/07/2026 and 24/07/2026

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