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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Lowering kit for midget 1500

Hi all. I've got the lowering kit from mgbhive and am trying to prepare for the job by making sure I have the right tools and know what I am up against in advance (as much as possible)!
So for the front springs I have ordered a set of spring clamps. I have compressed springs before so I'm ok with that.
I'm a little unsure about the leaf springs - have never worked in them before. I need to change the U bokts and install the blocks that come with the kit. Is there any special technique or equipment needed?
Thanks
Jamie1978

think you might struggle to get spring clamps in easier with the long bolt method.
mark 1500 Lights on at the end of the tunnel

Jamie
If I remember correctly
The rear is fairly straight forward
Get the rear wheels of the car off the floor remembering not to support it on the axle
1.Remove the wheels
2. Remove the u bolts and old saddle plates and rubber spring mounts
3. Lift axle one side at a time and put in the lowering blocks
4. Replace rubber mounts and saddle brackets
5. Drop in new u bolts and tighten
6. Put wheels back on and lower the car

The front I don't think you will get enough movement on the spring to compress it enough to use the spring compressors (not enough room)
The method I would use if you are putting in a shorter spring or using the spring pan lowering tubes is this.

For the lowering tube version
Get the front wheels off the floor
1. Remove two diagonal bolts from the spring locator that hold it to the a pan
2. Insert a 50mm bolt into the two holes put on a small washer and then a standard nut (not nyloc) and tighten back up
3. Remove the remaining two original bolts
4. Start to undo the nuts on the long bolts evenly a bit at a time until the spring locator plate has lowered enough to insert the lowering tubes into position on the empty holes
5. Insert the new bolts through the tubes and take up the strain
6. Now completely remove the two 50mm bolts insert the other two tubes and the new bolts tighten all four and do the other side

If you have shorter springs the process is similar to above except you will need to use a piece of threaded rod about 125mm instead of the 50mm bolt and you will need to completely remove the spring locator to get the spring out from below

Just remember to use good quality nuts and bolts as there is a lot of strain put on them when doing the above
Hope it helps and I haven't missed anything
Dave

Dave Pratt

It should end up something lie this Jamie.

Easy as long as things aren't all rusted to death (a strong possibility)

Malcolm
M Le Chevalier

picture....

M Le Chevalier

Why lower? The thing already scrapes the floor/sump/wishbone on the smallest of humps and unless you intend to keep it on the track, I cannot see much point. Add a passenger and luggage and you'll be stuck on a molehill..
Mark O

Because we are young, and we can! :-D
M Le Chevalier

Why lower? Because the 1500 is higher than a chrome bumper model.

Dave O'Neill2

Malcolm - Lower a Midget and drive around the pothole infested delights of Aberdeen's streets and you may regret it!

Mark O

How much do you weigh, Mark?
Guy W

Good Lord Guy,...and we have not even been introduced...about 13st on Earth, but in more esoteric moments when the missus accuses me of not being on Earth, about 2st...
Mark O

;-) !!
Guy W

Thanks for the info Dave... so helpful.
Thanks for the photo Malcolm.
Chrome conversion almost competed. . Will post back on here re. How it went!
Jamie1978

Jamie
Glad it helps
I laid a 1275 leaf spring on top of a 1500 one a while ago and there was about 40-45mm more depth in the centre on the 1500 one.
I can see without those heavy rubber bumpers it would sit very high.
Dave Pratt

Hi Jamie
Mine had a doubling plate? about 10mm thick under the front spring brackets, which I removed, this isn't fitted (to my knowledge) to earlier models. Removing it lowers the car by maybe 4-5mm, next step is lowering blocks but not as aggressive as the ones in Malcolm's pic. The front was lowered by 35mm, if you look at my post "finally done" you can see the result, still too high at the back but not as high as in Dave's pic.
Cheers
Rod
R W Bowers

Have fitted the front spacers and rear lowering blocks.
Noticable difference at rear, less so at front. Weather turned just after I finished so haven't driven it yet however will report back for the records and upload before/after photos of the lowering results using the kit from MGB Hive. Thanks everyone for the help - I was pleasantly surprised that the bolts weren't rusted up and my car seems pretty rust free underneath, hopefully it will stay that way!
Jamie1978

Jamie the only way to stay rust free is to emigrate to either Arizona or to Western oz LOL
cheers Rod
R W Bowers

This thread was discussed between 20/05/2014 and 27/05/2014

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