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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Rear axle pinion seal

I have recently removed the engine from the Sprite and whilst unbolting the prop shaft noticed a slight weep of oil from the diff pinion seal. I removed the flange and found the seating for the lip seal was pitted. I do have a Myford lathe and found that a SKF 14383 seal is the same outside diameter but is for a slightly smaller shaft diameter. I was able to turn off a wisker from the flange journal so the new seal has a good surface to rub on. I know not everyone will have a lathe but it may be cheaper to get a machine shop to do the turning than buy a new flange or worse still fit a dodgy second hand one.

Jan T
J Targosz

I have a lathe, but being lazy I put a Speedi-Sleeve on my pinion. I have quite a few of these on my car now!
Les Rose

Hi Les,

I have also used speedy sleeves but they can be expensive. One advantage of metrication is that you can often find a seal or something that was originally specified in inches and replace it with a under or oversized metric one to give you a little "meat" to play with.

You advice is good though. For someone who does not own a lathe a speedy sleeve could be cheaper than buying a new component.

If someone has the skill but no lathe they could try their local Mens' Shed. I know of two close to me that have lathes.

Jan T
J Targosz

I recently used a speedi sleeve on a crankshaft oil seal journal. Very effective, about 38 quid.

Probably a similar cost on a diff pinion flange.

New diff flange about 68 quid.

I'd buy a new flange as I don't have a lathe.
anamnesis

I have never used a speedi sleeve but also suffer from a leaky diff, I presume the speedi sleeves are used to help stop leaks, is this correct and is it a straight forward job?
Tim Lynam

Depends what you mean by straight forward.

Yes, fitting the sleeve is pretty easy. Getting to the stage where you fit the sleeve, and then putting the flange back with the correct pre-load, is less straight forward.

If you couldn't by a new flange, then I'd use a sleeve.

But for the amount of work involved anyway, to save circa 30 quid doesn't sound worth it to me. I'd rather fit a new flange if I'm doing the job anyway.

Also, keep in mind, I have read that a sleeve, won't be as long lasting as the original journal surface.


anamnesis

Thanks, unfortunately diff drive flange's have been unavailable from the UK suppliers I have used for a few years, unless anyone knows where they can be purchased?
Tim Lynam

Tim

You may just need to replace the seal.

You would only need to replace the flange, or fit a sleeve, if the seal has worn a groove in the flange surface.
Dave O'Neill 2

While I agree with Anam that fitting a sleeve is easy and the tricky bit is the remove and refit of the flange to the right preload, the latter has to be done regardless if sorting out the seal leak.

If a sleeve is needed, follow the instructions! I naughtily didnt read them the first time I used one, used anerobic sealer and discovered why the instructions say dont: the leak didnt go away - it appears anerobic sealant expands a little on setting, and found upon meaduring that it had distorted the sleeve a few thou.
Paul Walbran

Thanks Paul and Dave, setting the preload is not straightforward so probably will put up with the leak for a while longer.
Tim Lynam

Tim, don't be put off having a go.

Not being straightforward, doesn't mean extremely or prohibitively difficult.

If you have a jack, axle stands, basic tools, and can count, -- you can remove your flange, inspect it, decide if it actually does need a sleeve, remove and put in a new oil seal, reassemble, and then screw the flange nut back to exactly the position it was in with the same preload on the bearings when you started.

It's just not as starightforward as for example, changing a spark plug, or your brake shoes. It has more/different steps, but it's not THAT much more difficult.

You'll get plenty of help on here.



anamnesis

This thread was discussed between 30/09/2022 and 20/10/2022

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