MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Rear strengthening section..

I have discovered the right hand side strengthening box section that runs around the inside of the wheel arch is rusted quite badly- mainly on the underside - just where its a B***ch to get at. Leaves me wondering what the rest of the box section is like inside. I am in two minds to hack the top off from the top to get better access to repair the bottom plate.

Does anyone do repair panels - I don't really want the whole rear strengthening panel..?


Anyone done this repair and are to comment how best to tackle it?
John Barber

The bits the bumper hang off you mean John? At the front?

Chop 'em off :-D

Or you need a number 8 for 50 notes...

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1464#8

Lots of spot welds to drill out!

Cheers,
Malcolm

Edit: Doh, the clue is in the thread title, at the rear not the front! In that case is it a 47 you need?

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1466#47
Malcolm Le Chevalier

Its the underside of the no 46 part in the Moss catalogue. So its really a part of the rear shelf/boot floor (edge of part no 22)

I can see through the underside of the shelf panel into the chassis section as it were - but welding in a replacement patch upside down is not going to be easy..

Has anyone any smart ideas how to do this ?

I have in mind - cardboard template and fashion a patch with flaps to weld to the wheel arch and shock bracket upside down...!

I can already feel the weld spatter !
John Barber

I've only ever done that bit twice. The first time I did it with the shell upside down and it was nasty to do due to the presence of other panel joints in the way. The second time I slashed out large bits of the '46' panel and worked from above. Much more pleasant to do and I got rid of much more grot that was waiting for the next bit of moisture before it started to re-rot the new pieces.

Worth leaving a drain hole in the '46' forwards end to get any water out.

If I were to do it again I'd do it from the top but bite the bullet and hack out much more metal until welding in new stuff was easy and all the new welds were on fresh metal, if you see what I mean. New shelf edge, new '46' end, new front 6 inches of inner wheel arch etc. Does that make sense?
r thomas

How about drilling holes through the flange of 46 and plug welding your floor patch panel in from above? And maybe a downward-facing flange at the outer edge, welded from inside the wheel arch. Clecos will be your friends with this repair, I suspect..
Growler

Oh and a joggled flange on the repair panel where it meets the existing floor panel- nice and strong, and easy to plug weld from above too.
Growler

This thread was discussed between 09/07/2012 and 12/07/2012

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS now