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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Removing ignition barrel (1500)

As per title, how does it come off? It appears to be in two halves around the steering column with screw threads but no head to get a purchase on. I appreciate its supposed to be tamper proof BTW.

Cheers
Ste Midget K

The later style ones used shear headed bolts as a security feature. The bolt shaft is waisted just below the head and when tightened the head would shear off, leaving nothing to get a spanner onto. You will either have to drill down the centre and use a threaded bolt extractor, or you may be able to cut the bolts if you can get a thin hacksaw blade between the two hales and onto the bolts. You will need patience either way.

It is a lot easier and quicker in the long run to remove the steering column so you can work on it on the bench.
Guy W

I just posted the instructions on the MGB board, same-o, same-o. two minutes.

FRM
FR Millmore

FRM, mine were actually very tight. No way they would move easily with a punch like that, but maybe some are tighter than others! The cone end of the shear bolt had also snapped off quite well down below the surface so not easy to cut a screwdriver slot. Redeeming feature is that the bolts are quite soft and do drill / cut easily if you can get at them.
Guy W

I had to do this job on dozens of cars, "back in the day"


Fletcher's method always worked, but some bolts were very difficult to remove - others were easy.

I actually use(d) a slim chisel to start the unscrewing rather than a centre punch then simply kept up the undoing action with a longish hard steel screw driver.
Bill1

In theory, they should all be the same, as the shear torque is calculated. But stuff like moisture exposure is a factor - I always use LubriPlate on these. I always found that there is a certain frame of mind and technique to make the bolts move with a punch etc. Wrong state of mind is very frustrating!
Actually, I have a small special chisel I made to cut bushings and the like out - a sort of tiny cape chisel, most useful little tool over the years, which digs in rather than slipping as a punch does; point is beveled from one side and both edges, made from a small center punch. You drive the chisel in radially to make a hole, then tangentially to turn the bolt. The shock tends to break any corrosion in the thread.

FRM
FR Millmore

I certainly don't disagree - tap, tap, tap with a small chisel is a method I have often used successfully. Just not on the one occasion that I needed to remove the lock.

T'was in Scotland. On a holiday. The 1500 had blown a head gasket. I got a lift to a telephone (pre mobile phone days!)to call for a tow. And after my lift, who were a couple also on holiday, had departed I realised I had dropped my keys in their car!

End of the tale came some weeks later when my keys were posted back to me from Holland. They didn't have my address, but in conversation I had mentioned the Lake District and they had done some detective work with phone directories!
Guy W

Guy-
Such a story makes it all worthwhile! I've had a few, and would not trade them for hassle free unmemorable trips.

FRM
FR Millmore

Cheers for all the input chaps! No easy way as I suspected. :(
Ste Midget K

Quoting meself: "two minutes."

FRM
FR Millmore

Steve, Yes there is! The method FRM describes is quick and easy - if the bolts are not seized in position. Give it a try.
Guy W

This thread was discussed between 28/07/2012 and 29/07/2012

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