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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Removing shock absorber link arms

I have some later rear shocks (standard) which I want to use on the Frogeye re-build. After painting them I realised the link arms for Frogeyes are different from later models. Do they just hammer out or should I use something like a ball joint separator/ heat, as they seem very tight?
Bill Bretherton

Yes they are tight. They should press out with a bit of persuasion. I would not use heat in case you alter the tempering of the arm.
Bob Beaumont

Is this thread restricted to people with the initials BB?
Jeremy MkIII

No Jeremy, feel free to advse me!

Thanks Bob, I'll give them a bit of wellie then!
Bill Bretherton

I almost always resort to the blowtorch when removing link arms from the levers; hasn't caused any subsequent problems under race conditions. Undo the nut until just proud of the thread, heat well and then clout with 2lb hammer.
David Smith

What do you do with the arms that are welded on. I don't know if that was ever an Armstrong damper standard feature or if it was some sort of bodge by later reconners but I've certainly seen many dampers where the arms weren't held on by a nut, which I think was standard, but rather no threaded shaft end for a nut instead a weld bead between the shaft and arm to hold it in place.
David Billington

David S

I believe it's the lever arm itself, rather than the drop-link.


David B

I think only the front dampers had the arm held on with a nut. The rears always had the arm and spindle welded together. The spindle is then pressed into the rocker.
Dave O'Neill 2

Dave (O' Neil), I do mean the link arms on the rear shocks i.e. connecting to the axle. The Frogeye ones are different (the threaded connecting stud is inverted 180 degrees annoyingly) but the shock absorber itself is the same (as later models).
Bill Bretherton

Ah, I see.

For the drop links I just use a small splitter, like this one. They normally pop straight out.

Easy to use in-situ, too.

Dave O'Neill 2

I have a pickle fork which should do it. Some people tell you to just tap the side of the joint so it momentarily distorts and magically drops out (like with track rod ends) but mine seem pretty firm. Your tool is best though I think, as it doesn't cause damage.
Bill Bretherton

Well I've done it with Plusgas and the pickle fork. One released quite quickly but the other took a lot of pounding with my club hammer. Another of those neanderthal type tasks!
Bill Bretherton

I always use a screw splitter like the one in the picture above for jobs like this. It takes longer than a wack with a big hammer, but its more controlled. I'm sure its kinder on the components too.
Chris Madge

This thread was discussed between 22/10/2019 and 24/10/2019

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