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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Spring installation
Ok so I have dismantled the front suspension to re bush all round and replace the stub axles. I have started to re assemble but I can't seem to refit the spring over the spring seat even though the wishbone is pointing downwards as far as it will go. Is it possible to do this by hand and if so what is the correct method or is it time to purchase spring compressors? |
Andy Davies |
If it's a chrome bumper model, it should be possible. Not sure about the 1500 with extra spring length. You will struggle to find any spring compressors that will fit in the space available. |
Dave O'Neill2 |
you don't need to do either choice, instead, simply unbolt the center portion of the lower A arm and use long bolts to pull it up and compress the spring once it is pulled up you can swap out the long bolts for the short ones Norm |
Norm Kerr |
Or (similar to Norm's method) uses the bolts to guid it in but a jack to push it spring up. |
Paul Walbran |
Nah, Just use a long big dlat blade screw driver to ease the spring over the base. That's all I've ever done. I seem to remember we all had this discussion not so long ago. Tea or coffee? |
Lawrence Slater |
Sorry don't quite understand the method ''simply unbolt the center portion of the lower A arm and use long bolts to pull it up and compress the spring'' Any chance of some further explanation? Thanks Andy |
Andy Davies |
Andy, I have never had any difficulty with this. The spring should just push into place, unless for some reason you have longer springs or are just being too gentle with the thing. Push the top of the spring firmly up into the underside of the top turret. Be aware that there is a step for the end of the last coil to fit snugly into. It will work without locating this, but it is better if you do and will give you that little extra bit of clearance at the bottom. Then press the bottom wishbone right down as far as it will go. If it touches the floor, then you need to jack the car up higher. The limiting factor is when the bottom edges of the wishbone begin to contact the flange on the underside of the chassis rails. Because it is rubber mounted, you may need to press down quite firmly to achieve maximum clearance. At this point the bottom of the spring should just clear the top of the spring base. It may need a little "persuasion" to encourage it into place. The recognised procedure is a firm kick with the sole of your safety boot, although it is a tricky process whilst simultaneously holding the wishbone down,the spring in position and standing on one leg. :-) |
Guy |
Unbolt the lower spring pan is what they mean. There are four bolts in the middle of the lower wishbone that hold in it place. Then you just put the spring over it and either jack, lift or gradually bolt the pan back into place. |
S Overy |
If they don’t just pop in try this method->
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BH Harvey |
I use the 4 long bolts on the spring pan method. |
Dean Smith ('73 RWA) |
Bill, looks like your wishbones need a little paint or grease to keep the rust at bay. :) |
Lawrence Slater |
I second the use of the 4 long bolts and spring pan method. If something lets go as you (de)compress the spring it's going to cause a bit of a mess as all the energy in the spring is released at once! |
TonyJH |
Another vote for the long bolt and spring pan approach. Safest way IMHO. |
TonyJH |
Personally, I'm a tea drinker, and I don't wear a hard hat when changing my springs, without removing the bolts. :) |
Lawrence Slater |
Hmm, managed to post twice. The joys of trying to connect to the BBS on the train. Thought the first post hadn't gone through. Is drinking tea bad???? I'm doomed if it is! The 'cuppa' is the only way to survive a day in the office :) |
TonyJH |
lol. Tony. The tea coffee argument is equal to the bolt or mild force argument, for changing front springs on Spridgets. :) Just a preference, nothing more nothing less. :) |
Lawrence Slater |
This thread was discussed between 01/02/2012 and 08/02/2012
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