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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Sump Gasket Still Leaking

Whilst the engine was out (replacing the rear crank seal conversion with the original set up - a success!!!!!) I removed the sump and chain cover and replaced the gaskets. I used the "uprated", rubber strips at the front and rear of the sump rather than the original corks. There was a drip from the front of the sump. I bought another lower gasket kit and replaced it a second time, still with rubber strips and using Wellseal. The leak is still there. Oil drips are forming on the bottom of the chain cover but the semi-circular part of the sump is wet. The crank pulley is dry. I checked both the sump and chain cover for flatness and fitted a new lip seal. I am going to have to do further dismantling. I can see how oil will collect in the bottom of the chain cover but any leaks from the sump must be via splash so why the wetness by the semi circular seal. Fortunately I only used water to fill the radiator so won't waste antifreeze if I have to remove it to get to the chain cover but the rad bolts aren't the easiest to remove. The bottom line is I think I will have to repace both sump and chain cover gaskets again and this time use the original cork seals. Has anyone got advice on the best way to ensure that I can sole the problem this time?

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan,
have you got the front and rear seals the right way round, previously it used to be that suppliers had one seal as rubber (rear IIRC) and the other as cork and you had to perhaps trim the cork, then some cork seals were semi-circular and others where just straight. Gaskets kits often came with two straight cork seals, I know as I had a collection of them I never used.

Now there seems to be two rubber seals from Moss at least but with different part number as far as I remember so it's all getting mix 'n' match. The Archives will have about fitting the seals.

For the rad issue if you could give more model details or put up a viewable link to your 'Vehicle profile' which should help with which rad you hove vertical or x-flow. If it's a crossflow I might be able to give you advice or tips as I've taken my rad out many more times than I'd want to and it's usually awkward due to a PO fixing of the rad shroud.


Nigel Atkins

Bit of a side step this one Jan, but are you absolutely sure of the origin of the oil leak?
A fairly common fault with A series engines is oil leaking from the oil gallery in the head, front n/side corner of the engine. Oil from there can trickle down the engine and collect at the bottom, appearing to come from the sump. A quick look will show it up, especially if your engine is clean. Worth eliminating that possibility!
GuyW

Very good point there as gravity also seem to make it look like the drain plug leaks when it just a convenient point to drip from.

You can also get a dye to put in to show origins of leaks.
Nigel Atkins

Did you center the timing cover oil seal onto the damper? If you wipe off the oil and puff up some talcum powder you should easily see the start point as a track. Plus you will smell nice.
f pollock

Also check the sump where the seals sit. The groove for the seal is made by a separate flange which is (I think) spot welded and then soldered to seal it. On mine the solder had cracked leaving a gap.

John Payne

What's so annoying is I had a "Niagra Falls" leak from the rear of the crank. This was due to a lip seal conversion fitted by a previous owner. The rest of the engine was totally leak free. The receipt for the fitting of the lip seal came with the car's paperwork and I contacted the company that had done the job and they still had the original scroll cover which had been removed during the conversion. Whilst refitting this, just to be sure, I changed the sump and chain cover gaskets and replaced the front lip seal. Now I have no leak from the bell housing but one where there wasn't one before! The bottom end gasket kits I bought included straight cork strip seals. I didn't like the way I would have to bend them across the wider dimension to fit into the sump recess and also the fact that they were then a very loose fit in the groove so I bought two rubber seals. One was longer than the other and went to the front. I am now going to carry out the talcum powder test to see exacly where the drip statrts.

The problem with my radiator is that a new core was fitted by a previous owner but the captive nut cages on the frame were damaged and the nuts then soldered into place. Because there was no movement in the nuts I simply could not get the bolts to start so I ground the nuts off and opend out the holes. The only way I can now get a nut onto the bolt is to glue it on the end of my finger. If I have to take the radiator out again I will make up some new cages and use either stainless or brass nuts.

Just a quick follow on from above, if you aren't precious about originality Toolstation sell a full range of stainless, metric nuts, bolts and washers and they are inexpensive.

Jan T
J Targosz

Jan, amongst other modifications I altered the rad fixing arrangement. Two studs at the bottom slot into two grommeted holes in the frame and then the whole assembly is locked into place with just the top two rad shroud bolts. These are altered so there is now a forward facing threaded stud where the top pair of captive nuts were. It is much easier to assemble the various bits of metalwork onto these studs and then spin a nut on from the front where you can get at it!
GuyW

This thread was discussed between 03/08/2022 and 05/08/2022

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