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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Waxoyling

Cherry came home yesterday, and one of my early jobs is going to be Waxoyling (or similar). Can I just ask keen oylers (i) how (if) you oyled the footwell voids, and(ii) what's the favourite way into the A-posts?
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Protect every void !!
A posts - try the door fixing bolt holes.

I no longer use Waxoyl theese days - suggest you look at Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 - comes in jumbo aerosols with 600mm long plastic lances and really good brass spray nozzles. Mail order only.

Comes out well in tests / car mags etc and it does not need heating to make it run for application - unlike Waxoyl.

I used it and would again.
richard b

Used Dintrol back in the early 2000s but have read that it's not as good as it was.
Bilt Hamber as Richard recommends, gets good reviews.
IIRC there were elongated 'holes' in the inside of the A post but it was a Heritage shell so may well differ substantially from your original Frog.
You could always drill a couple of holes for access and then plug them but it would take a braver man than me to start drilling a beautifully restored and painted shell.
Jeremy MkIII

I used Bilt Hanber when the shell came back from the restorers back in 2010 and its all good. Used the door bolt holes and the windscreen fixing holes to get to the A post.
I did drill and plug the rear bulkhead so I could get into the void behind the seats and around the spring hangers.
Bob Beaumont

Thanks for the info on aerosol rust preventers... I Waxoyled my Midget years ago, and I'd like to do it again, but Waxoyl's something of a pain to use. Plus, I loaned my kit out to somebody and the pump never came back...

Cheers,

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

You can reach the A posts on top behind the dash. I prefer Dinitrol.

Flip
Flip Brühl

Oh dear - the door hinges are beautifully painted, and I don't fancy disturbing them. I looked at the windscreen bolt hole, and it was quite difficult to get a piece of garden wire down, but with a bit of wiggling I could probably get a 2ft semi-rigid lance down to the middle somewhere. Or I might drill the footwell side panel. A nice tight plug behind the card wouldn't be a problem.

For the footwells, I suppose the big hole we discussed earlier in the year (for slings, did we decide?) will do the job.

Bob, did you drill the rear bulkhead close to the back of the spring cave? I would love to see how exactly that is constructed. Haven't decided what to do with it yet, but I recall that Rob filled the secret loft above the cave with grease, and Guy favoured some sort of mechanical closure.

Edit:- thanks, Flip. I will investigate.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Hi Nick

yes I drilled near the spring cavity and injected the Half a can in each side.

On the A post I fitted the hinges afterwards so could use the lower hinge bolt hole and the spray head extension on the Bilt Hamber aerosol.

I took the view that doing the protection well will protect the car. It does not get the exposure to the elements that it did when it was first built. Its over 7 years since its been restored and no sign of any nasty tin worm.Modern preservatives seem much better than back in the day.
Bob Beaumont

Thanks Bob. I've been searching through my shelves, and I've come across 3 cans of Bilt Hamber gunk that I bought some time ago, when a friend was sending off for a special offer.
Unfortunately, only one of them is S50 - the other two are 'firm coating' or some such name, designed for exposed areas.

I shall experiment, but do you reckon I can use the latter for cavities - perhaps the easier cavities?
Nick and Cherry Scoop

Hi Nick

I am sure the other stuff will be fine for the easier areas. Probably better as the cavities re not exposed. Hopefully its still fluid enough to be sprayed/injected.

on a related point I drilled couple of extra holes in areas which could be a water trap. eg below the sidelight where the wing curves round. The water was trapped there and encouraged corrosion between the seams.
Bob Beaumont

If using aerosol cans that have stood on the shelf for a while, you may find that the pressure has leaked away over time. Standing the can in a bowl of hot water (not boiling) will often build up enough pressure again to make them useable.
GuyW

Thanks Guy. I will warm them up before I begin. Can someone who's used this stuff give me any tips? And, if you don't do all the cavities in one go, how do you clean the tube and spray head, and the nozzle?
Nick and Cherry Scoop

To flush the tube and nozzle simply invert the can and spray onto a rag/old newspaper/whatever until no more product comes out. Same as with paint rattle-cans. A few seconds should be enough.
Greybeard

Good, thanks Grey.
Nick and Cherry Scoop

This thread was discussed between 09/01/2018 and 14/01/2018

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