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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - What is the Throttle pedal linkage made of?

Got the floor mounted throttle and with my new setup it isn't sitting right/doesn't have enough travel.

Don't want to spend £25 on a used 1500 one and was wondering what the link is made of - can it be welded (migged)?

Thinking I can just take of the bellows job and weld on a new 'pedal' bit, but I have an idea it's made of ally and not steel?
L McInally

the bulkhead brackets are ally but i'm pretty sure the rod is steel. Don't see how your proposed mod will give more travel. What is your 'new setup'?
David Smith

Jenvey TB's - I'm from the K-series dark side.

Organ pedal job linkage has about an inch protruding at the rear of the pedal which hits the bulkhead.

I've got razor sharp throttle response and a lightened flywheel but the pedal is very high and doesn't sit comfortably. It's great fun, but getting it an inch closer to the bulkhead and maintaining the same amount of travel would be ideal and make for smoother progress and easier heel-and-toeing.

I think a 1500 pedal would sort it but I can weld and I've spent enough...
L McInally

Not sure what you mean by the link: The short bit which plugs into the back of the pedal (which is what I call the link), or the bit which is supported by a couple of brackets attched to the bulkhead and runs across the bulkhead from pedal the cable (which I call the cross shaft)? I suspect you mean the latter?

Both are made of steel. We had problems with not enough travel on our K conversion too when we went to throttle bodies. Here's what we did to gain more pedal travel:

Firstly check that the cable end of the cross shaft is going fully up to the top bulkhead in the throttle-off position (you have probably already done this)

Second, shift the pedal out of the way (the link simply unplugs from the back of it) and pull the cross shaft (at the end to which the link joins) backwards hard enough to twist the shaft in its horizontal section.
You may prefer to remove the shaft completely and do this out of the car to save potential damage to the mounting points on the bulkead.

This should be all that's needed for the standard carburettor set-up.

Caution: keep an eye on the shaft where it goes through the mounting brackets. It is drilled to accept a locating pin so will be weaker there. Ours proved to be a bit dozy at one, so we welded a doubler to the shaft once it was in the right place.

Third, if like Rob (and us) you have a non-standard situation under the bonnet and find that getting the cross shaft back far enough to give full travel leaves the pedal too high for comfortable use, we dispensed with the organ pedal and made up a simple pad type of pedal on a short stalk which bolted to the eye of the cross shaft in place of the link. In effect, this replicated the 1500 one, though I think the length of the stalk was shorter that the 1500 in order to get the pedal compatible with the brake pedal height.
Paul Walbran

Ha Lloyd, I didn't read the post properly and got mixed on who's who .... oops
Paul Walbran

Paul - Yep, it's adjusted and the pedal just sits too high for comfort.

I hadn't thought of just bolting something up - run out of reasons to get the welder out lately I suppose!

Off on holiday for two weeks this morning - I shall investigate further on my return...
L McInally

Mmm, there are books with this stuff in..
Daniel Stapleton

Unless im not understanding fully.

Why not just throw away the organ peddle its self and weld a new peddle onto the cross bar that the cable slips into

When my organ peddle broke I just peddled off that cross bar...I wouldnt recommend it, but its doable...just weld a peddle on and its good to go id think

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Prop - your understanding is at least as correct as mine.
Daniel Stapleton

Danial....I cant even go there

Hahaha

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I did what Prop suggested. I never thought I'd say that! :-) :-) and I've got the book ;)
Rob Armstrong

This thread was discussed between 17/08/2013 and 19/08/2013

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