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MG MG Y Type - Electronic ignition?

Over the past few months, I've been undertaking 10-20 mile trips out in Y5073 (1950 YA) and by far the commonest problem has been the points.
Perhaps the contact plate has worn threads, but about every fourth trip out, the contact breaker points collapse to zero gap and the car won't start. I've tried Loctite but without success.
The car was bought to be driven, not betinkered, and the points unreliability has at last made me seriously consider the option of electronic ignition.
In March 2021, Tony Slattery very kindly posted a most useful diagram showing how to identify the type of distributor cam in place. (q.v. Electronic ignition, 25 March 2021) Mine is an Asymmetrical, by the look of it.
I've studied the Powerspark electronic ignition K31 for DKY4A distributors and the appear to sell it with four cam rings to cater for both symmetrical and asymmetrical, I presume. Competitors from Pertronix (more expensive) and others don't appear to send you the four options.
Am I right in thinking that with an electronic ignition unit the distributor leads need to be silicone-coated carbon leads?
I wondered if anyone had made the switch to electonic ignition, and how they rated the products?
A J R Felthouse

AJR. Those who have fitted electronic ignition will inevitably tell you they are wonderful. The distributors clearly never did this from new though so some questions spring to mind. Firstly are you sure that the points are slipping on the baseplate, or are they wearing on the heel? The former can be checked by marking the baseplate with an indelible pen, or similar, where they are when adjusted. Are they in the same position after a run and are the 2BA fastening bolts still tight? If so it could be poor quality points which can wear rapidly at the heel which rides on the cam. There are some atrocious quality ignition components out there which need constant adjusting though I have never seen any that wear quite that fast. Even a Lucas branding is no guarantee any more. If the bolts are loosening then a star washer, or two, might help but a new baseplate will be a whole lot cheaper than an electronic ignition and you will be able to carry the original as a get you home spare, with new points and good quality condenser of course as the quality of these is worse than the points.
good luck
Ian
ian thomson

Hello Ian
Thanks for your advice.
I suppose really that what you said hits the issue at the bottom line viz. there are doubts as to the quality of manufacture of contact breaker points and condensers these days.
Sometimes I wish that I'd left my original condenser in place as it was alleged to be indefeasible. I do get quite a bit of asymmetrical wear on the points, and wondered if this might be due to aberrations in the spring tension of the CB unit.
If I could find a source for bona fide contact breakers and condensers, then I'd be happy to carry on fiddling. But, I bought this car to use, and not to tinker with every verse end to even make it run, so if I cannot source them very soon, then I think I might have a Powerspark K1. Unless there are any there suggestions?
All the best
Andy Moose
A J R Felthouse

Andrew,

KKeep original, contact Distributor Doctor and they will support you.

https://www.distributordoctor.com/

Regards

Richard Knight
PS no links to above other than satisifed Y Type customer.
Richard Knight

Andy
I've fitted up several Powerspark units to MGB's and an E type Jag and have never had an issue with them apart from you need to be thorough and check where the wiring sits. The wiring that comes with the units is fairly lightweight (doesn't need to be heavy) and care needs to be taken making sure it sits in the dist. nicely so it doesn't get damaged when the advance base plate moves about and also on the outside of the dist. the wiring needs support by tying it to other wiring etc to stop it floating about.
As far as benefits go, yep 100% reliable and maintenance free, the engines start easier especially when cold and low speed response is noticeably improved
Also the units are available in both pos. and neg. earth so be aware of that choice to suit your car

willy
William Revit

I was just about to make the same suggestion as Richard - might well be worth getting the good Doctor to give the whole thing a medical. I did this a couple of years ago and since then the engine has run beautifully with just about no adjustments to the ignition. (I didn't expect the diagnosis of an imminent collapse of the distributor's diecast body, but that's my problem....)
Again, I have no connection to the DD business other than as a satisfied customer.
Tim Griggs

A few years ago now I had my distributor in my Y (and the one for my Y/T) rebuilt by Masaaki Sakaguchi - wonderful guy!
Paul Barrow

Hi Andy,
two thihgs you might try,s put some soft solder on thread of lock screw which would take up wear in base thread also try f small flat star locking washer, these are quite thin unlike your normal split washers.
john yb0362
JC Jebb

This thread was discussed between 22/01/2023 and 17/02/2023

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