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MG MG Y Type - Headlining ...help

I managed to get enough cloth that would do as a headlining for very cheap money indeed at a local fabric shop..my problem is that the clips that used to hold the stuff you tack the headlining to [around the sun roof opening] have all broken off due to corrosion - the 'wood' that used to go in the recess is no longer there. I do not intend to attempt to weld on new retaining clips so will glue/crimp the wood in. What do I replace the 'wood' with and what were the dimensions of the 'wood' that used to fit in the recess ie width and thickness as the length is obvious. I have the booklet on replacing the headlining by the way but it does not address this point (at least I have not found it if it is in there).
D MULLEN

Hi,

The material in the clips is 1/2" X 3/8" and seems to be a hard woven material , wood or mdf would suffice I am sure. I have attached a few pics of my sunroof surround with the material fitted for you to look at.

Cheers Chris



C A Pick

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C A Pick

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C A Pick

Many thanks for the photos..its so long since I took the remains of it out I forgot how it was ! Time flies......
D MULLEN

Chris If you have any images of the rear sunroof channel it will help me re-construct mine, as you can see there is very little of my interior channel remaining. Bryan

B Mellem

This is all thats left

B Mellem

Bryan: my sunroof channels looked much the same... Dave: these days I believe the best material to tack the headlining fabric to is marine plywood of the right thickness. It's dimensionally stable, rotproof and strong enough to hold tacks and screws. If you epoxy it to the body metal it should stay in place for good.

I would suggest avoiding the use of MDF as it's not damp-proof and tends to swell and lose strength.

Happy days...
Tim Griggs

It doesn't get much worse than this, thats why 'rain drops keep falling on my head' Bryan

B Mellem

Hi Brian,

Sorry I took time replying here some more pics. hope they help.If you require more info drop me an e mail at chrispick@hotmail.co.uk

Regards chris

C A Pick

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C A Pick

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C A Pick

What is the rope in the rear channel (round channel near the roof) for - is it a draught excluder of some kind? - it is literally a piece of rope.
D MULLEN

Thanks a lot Chris, these pictures are a great help. one thing though have you removed the wood trim from the bridge? On my section it was the only support which held the channel together and the roof lining up. Another question is how far does the sliding roof panel travers - looks to me about 12 - 13 inches.

I think that the plated rope is to prevent any rattle or drumming, If it becomes wet it could start rusting between the roof and internal bridge, may be a plastic foam section is better.

Thanks again Bryan
B Mellem

I suspected the platted rope was for damping noise from the roof..the rope in my YB was a bit worse for wear rotten and probably does get damp...I replaced it with an equivalent length of rubber tubing (ex garden hose) which fits nicely.
D MULLEN

Brian,

you are about right Brian the sun roof slides back 13". The wood from the bridge section on my picture had been removed before I got the car. I presume the interior light fits in the centre of the wood

Thats a great idea to replace the rope with plastic tube I will remove the rope and replace it with hose before I paint the body.Thanks for the suggestion
C A Pick

Having done it several times now I can honestly say that unless you replace everything [including all the wooden inlay in the body and around the sun roof opening with hardwood or plywood cut to fit (softwood splits as I have found out when I tried to tack the cloth to it)] you will never make a proper job of it. I have to content myself with an amateur job as I dont have the time or resources to outsource it which is why I buy a cheap off-cut of a suitable cloth as invariably you will make a mistake somewhere (in my case cutting the interior light hole in the wrong place). A word of warning no matter how well you put the headlining in it will start to get dirty fairly quickly if you use the car so unless you have a concours of really good car it's not worth the expense of an expensive professional retrim in my opinion as it just does not last - if you ever have to adjust or remove the sunroof sliding mechanism or clear a drain tube you will invariably mark or disturb the headlining so before you spend vast sums of money consider if a resonable job is appropriate if the rest of the car is showing its age as it will cost you a hell of a lot less if you have a go yourself...but it wont look as good as a more expensive and thorough job.
D MULLEN

Thanks for the advice D(is it dave,)
Although the material around the sunroof looks OK I will
replace it before the body goes to the painters, better for me to change it now if it may give me problems later.

Cheers Chris
C A Pick

Yes - D for Dave. I meant to say that if the fibreboard/wood infill around the body is in good condition leave well enough alone but my last posting referred to if its not ie if its rotten or damaged it must be replaced as you will find parts where its hard to secure the tacks. If you are having it professionally retrimmed ask the trimmer for advice. If its not been mentioned already buy the booklet by Jack Murray on replacing the headlining.
D MULLEN

a question and a point while on the subject of sunroofs:-

The question:- Can anyone give me the cross section dimensions of the foam rubber seals originally fitted to the front & rear transverse channels (visible on the outside of the car)? And its availability please.
Thanks in Advance!


And the point, just for interest:- there was a detailed article in the Octagon CC Bulletin (last Dec/Jan issue), on sealing the sunroof from the outside,using rubber sections available from Woolies, but it does'nt say what effect it has on the use or the ease(?) of opening/closing.

TonyK
A B Knowles

This thread was discussed between 07/04/2012 and 29/04/2012

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