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MG MG Y Type - Jackall pump filter.

Here is the cruddy gauze (brass?) filter; can anyone advise, does it screw in/out, or is it an interference fit? - in which case I will probably sacrifice it - assuming replacements are available.
Anton Piller, if you're there, I'm using your 2017 photo as a level of excellence!
Yours, John.

J P Hall

John. It's difficult to make it out clearly but it looks similar to the ones in the SU fuel pumps. I can't help you with how to remove it though.
Ian
ian thomson

As far as I know, these are NLA - no longer available. I do not know if it is the same as the SU fuel pumps as postulated above either and can neither confirm nor deny that.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hello John

Yes, I am still there. Thank you for the compliments :o)

I must confess that I had stopped playing with the JackAll System. The reason being that at an early rolling chassis stage, I had fitted new copper lines and all four rams that I had bought at a jumble sale as "refurbished". The dissapointment was big, when years later I fitted the pump, only to find out that they were pi..ing all over the place. Apparently they had only been cleaned on the outside and painted. I was so dissapointed that I decided to leave the four culprits as they where!

But since this was some years back and reading now that a couple of optimists out there are tackling the job, I might start all over again. But with spring coming up, this will have to wait untill next winter. AND, I will only give it a go if the front rams can be taken off the car without having to remove the front mud guards. Taking off the rear rams should be an easy straight forward job.

Can you please confirm that the front fenders can stay in place when I take off the front rams?

Anton
Anton Piller

This might be a clearer photo. I'm hoping Tony Slattery will advise on removal, and I can email him - but I like putting the questions on here to spread the knowledge.
My filter actually looks salvageable, provided I can extract it without damage.
Anton, I have all panels painted but still off the car; I think you can access the front rams with the wing/fender in situ, but obviously it's easier for me right now. Do you have a hoist?? I hope someone else will confirm for you. And yes, I would class myself as an "incurable optimist" - hence my love of car renovation; I retired late last year, and now, with good health mercifully, I'm approaching my hobby with enthusiasm!
Yours, John.


J P Hall

Yes you can take off and put back on the jack without taking the wings off. Have done it a couple of times trying to get the leaks stopped. Presently waiting for one new ram and new seals for a rebuild them put back on. It is not easy lying on your back on the garage floor to do so but do not have a lift which would make it a lot easier.
Frank
F.G. Russell


Hello John and Frank

Thank you for your replies. Yes, I do have a hoist and yes, I do have sturdy Jack Stands / Tressels and yes, I am used to lie on my back underneath the car, swearing and cursing :o)
It makes me happy to hear that the rams can be removed without having to take of the front wings.

cheers
Anton, YT 4220
Anton Piller

Hello John,
A bit bleary eyed just now, but I would not try to remove that filter. I can't recall exactly what you should use to clean it, but vinegar comes to mind. It is a very soft alloy in those pumps if I recall correctly.

You want something to neutralise the oxide alloy deposits, without eroding the brass/solder in the filter. Maybe just use some aerosol degreaser from SupaCheap and blow out with an airline.

It it can't be saved, I may have a pump face in better condition I could mail you.

Cheers

Tony
A L SLATTERY

I can confirm that the casting is very soft as you can see from the photo I was guilty of over tightening the brass nut. The filter on this casting rotates freely. I am pretty sure it has been flanged over to hold it in place. The next picture shows the end view. I think I can knock it out with the correct size drift. If anyone has a spare cover casting I would be very interested.

Peter Vielvoye

Second picture

Peter Vielvoye

Hello togther, some work to do before i have to test my jack all system
one rusty part left on the body ;-)
so very interesting experience for the future
FT Franz

Pretty sure I have a spare front panel somewhere Peter V - email me off line to remind me to go look for it.
Paul Barrow

John,

You should be able to effectively clean the housing and filter "In Situ". I would try some Calcium/Lime/ Rust cleaner (any brand) and a soft toothbrush. Pour some in and let it sit for about a half minute and then brush lightly, rinse with clean water. See what happened, and based on how fast deposits dissolve, repeat, adjusting for time and agitation with brush.

Keep working at it, until clean. Fussy work , but you should have success. I would not try to remove the filter at all, but you may find that after the corrosion is released it may fall out of place on its own. Looks to be a friction fit. Remember to rinse well to neutralize the cleaning solution a little soap and water would help here too.

Worth a try, and you really should not be able to damage th part. Just do not leave it to soak unattended.

.... CR
CR Tyrell

Thanks all for the suggestions. I was thinking of putting the assembly in the ultrasonic bath with something like vinegar, but was worried about the soft crapozine metal, so CR’s idea about CLR is a good one. I won’t soak it overnight.
Tony - why bleary eyed-? - just back from China?
I’ll come back with my results in a day or two.
Yours, John.
J P Hall

I would not soak over night. The acid in the CLR might start to dissolve the pot metal. Soak for a few minutes first to see how everything will react, to be on the safe side.
.. CR
CR Tyrell

So: at least in my case, the gauze filter is not peened over to hold it in place - it is a fairly tight interference fit, but drifted out easily. You can see the "tophat" base section in the attached image, placed upside-down to enable me to photograph the shape. My filter's base only had one or two little brazing spots, and the base separated as I removed the whole assembly. Not ideal, but easy to braze back together. It's clear that the filter is perfectly good to re-use for another 70 years once repaired.
John.


J P Hall

Sorry, blowed if I could get it to rotate, but this is to show the separated bottom top-hat; as you can see, it has straight walls for an interference fit. I haven't been able to find a replacement advertised anywhere, although as Ian says, it might be similar to something else, somewhere. John.

J P Hall

This thread was discussed between 29/02/2020 and 09/03/2020

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