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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MG Y Type - Jackall Pump Seals

Hi everyone,
I am restoring a YA and I am currently doing the Jackall System. I have sucessfully rebuilt the 4 rams but I am having trouble getting seals for the pump. I had a quote to make them but I thought $300 a bit much!! The seals are in good condition visually, but rock hard. I have them soaking in a oil additive that claims to stop oil leaks in power steering systems by softening the seals, see, I am getting desperate! Any ideas will be welcomed.
Thanks, Mike.
Mike Stearn

The 'Smiths Jackall System was used in many pre-war cars in the UK, on Humber, Morris, Austin, etc. It might be worth contacting other clubs to see how they obtained their spares. By far the biggest user of JACKALL systems was Morris/Wolseley. No doubt someone has found a suitable seal from something.

Neil.
Neil Cairns

Neil,
Thanks for your comments, I have contacted some local clubs and await results. I may be going to the U.K. next year around the end of April for a month, do you know of any shows etc. where I might see some English "Y"s?
Regards, Mike.
Mike Stearn

I am sure I read somewhere that NTG of Ipswich, UK, were to recondition the Jackall Pumps on an exchange basis. They must have access to parts to be able to do this. NTG are on 01473 211240

Neil
Neil Cairns

Thanks Neil,
I have contacted NTG via email and await results, also some local Wolseley and Riley clubs are checking with their members and will get back to me.
Thanks again for advice,
Mike.
Mike Stearn

A funny....

Today I went to the Austin A30/A35 annual rally at Luton, it is a nice quite, well organised meeting, by invitation only.

As usual I parked up the YB and opened her bonnet, so everyone could see just how MG powered the car. The JACKALL cylinder pump was on full view, with its reserviour. The windscreen was a bit open, to let in some air, as we ate our sandwiches midday. Three enthusiasts of old cars were studying my underbonnet area.

"Whats that thing?" said one, looking at the pump handle placed on the pump.

" Oh, that is for holding the bonnet open," replied another.

" But it's not touching the bonnet."

The third then said, " I think its a jacking system."

"Rubbish," said the second," It is the brake system."

The third said, " No, it is a JACKALL system, run off a pump on the engine."

"Are you sure?" said the first. That can looks like a brake master cylinder reserviour.

" What, with the words 'JACKALL' on the side."

The third, getting a bit miffed with his two mates, " You two need to learn to read, it says it all on this note on the window, it's an anti-theft device, you jack up the car so it cannot be towed away." ( It did not say this, he was pulling their legs.)

" Oh, that's a good idea," said the first, and they all walked away.

NC.
Neil Cairns

Peter Ratcliffe of SVW Services (tel 01964 671046, fax 01964 670212) sells valve seals (10.50gbp) and handle seals (5.95gbp)and reconditions pumps. Are the SVW pumps the same as Y -types?

Not everyone recommends this firm, but they do have some rare parts.

Kevin
Kevin Poole

Dear Mike. A couple of points about the jackall system. Firstly, you will have to have a professional hydraulic repairer dismantle the actual inner leg of each jack. It is physically impossible with normal home or even fairly sophisticated garage equipment. This is because the foot of each has to be removed to gain access to the seal that rests inside the screw on base (which you have probably been able to remove. Trust me, I spent many painful hours trying to remove this ring. Prediction: you will damage the outside of the leg if you try it yourself.

So even though the seals are available (from NTG if I remember), you will still have to pay the price of having them fitted. There are a couple of other aspects. If the legs are scored and you replace the seals without having them rechormed, they will leak. Once again a professional company will do this for you.

There is a company here in Sydney who did both Alf Luckman's YA and my YT legs. After a huge amount of research they were the only people willing to touch them. They also supplied the seals (which are off the shelf if you are a hydraulic boffin and know where to look).

They are probably about the rudest bastards I have ever come across, but they got the job done. I seem to remember they were $100 each. Also, they stripped one of the feet when they removed it and I had to give them another foot (which I luckly had from a donor car). Not their fault, Abingdon did not design these things to be messed about with and enormous torque has to be exerted to remove the foot (which means it is held in a special padded circular vice hence the strickly no home repair rule). These guys are in Brookvale, Northern beaches and I cannot remember their names, but Alf Luckman gave me their number so call him by getting his number from the Sydney MGCC.

A hint, after you have gone through the rigmarole of getting them done. Make sure you use plumbing tape when you screw the base back on. Otherwise they will leak and you won't be able to fix itin situ without heamoraging fluid everywhere. Fluid wise, I used hydraulic jack fluid obained from "Auto One" in Sydney with good results. The stickers for the reservoir are purchasable from NTG (only).

Anyway, there you have it. They were probably the most bastardish, buggerish single items I restored when I did my ground up YT. In comparison, everything else was a breeze. The memory of their stubborness still burns nearly 3 years after I did them. Completely overengineered by some diabolical, sadistic and no doubt, anally retentive cretin!

Good Luck!

P.S get a new wiring loom only from Vic Longden in Perth (08) 9448 4466: They are the bees knees! Don't order anything you don't have to from the U.K. And Bruce Smith at Sportsparts in Sydney does the rubber pads that sit under the light mounts (and the windscreen post mount rubbers for YT) as well as a number of locally made rubbers: eg the rear shock pads for a lot cheaper than Moss. Shock absorbers on exchange: Tony Rivero (02) 587 3349 (but also ask Bruce Smith for possible off the shelf exchange) Always do the front shocks. Instruments: Olympic Instruments Pymble: (02) 9449 9888. More tips: Moss UK is the most expensive. If you have to order from Moss (engine bits), order from California. Other cheaper places: Abingdon spares in New Hampshire (they stock only T parts). Also ask if your gearbox jumps out of third: it is a simple adjustment.
Jeremy

This thread was discussed between 02/09/2000 and 25/09/2000

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