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MG MG Y Type - Powder Coating?

Your thoughts please....

It seems very simple to get a chassis grit blasted and powder coated but is it any good?

Does it last, does the metal mouse get underneath?

What do the professional restorers think?

What is the very best, longest lasting chassis finish without resorting to zinc plating?

Thanks

Rob

Rob King

Hi Rob

Unless you are effecting pretty major repairs personally I wouldnt worry too much. What they did at the factory more or less has stood an effective test of time and I would pay more attention to ensuring adequate internal protection of the chassis frame using a preparation such as Waxoyl and to also ensure that the drain holes are free. The worst area for rot is around the rear of the car and also where the front roof drains come down. Provided they are kept clear of sludge and blockages (and it may be a good idea to replace the original rubber hoses with poly tubing)after that then just a really good application of an underseal.

Beware of the temptation to put too much money in to the car - these cars are not an investment that you will ever see a monetary return on your disbursements. That said, there is no substitute for doing a good job - just dont go to the moon!

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hello Rob. Remember that powder coating is a plastic powder that needs to be melted to the metal at about 350 degrees F. This releives the stresses in the frame which will cause it to twist in unexpected directions from the welds being stress releived. I had a guy call with a problem TC axle housing, it was warped and wanted me to look at it. As soon as he opened the trunk of his car I told him that his problem was the powder coating not the person that sold it to him. Also the company that did the powder coating for him did their standard sand blast to the housing and didn't cover the ground areas on the housing where the lip seal rides. I think that he had to speedy sleeve both sides so the seals wouldn't get torn up in just a few turns. He had to take it to a machine shop have them put in on a press and get them to bend it back straight. I don't know if he ever got it right. He sold the car shortly after he got it running.

Butch
VMG
R Taras

Hello Rob

I once came across a book called "Rust and Rot" by a Professor Diamant in which ha explained that rust is caused by an electrical action and that one of the best ways of preventing it is to zinc coat the article to be protected. He also pointed out the use of zinc as a sacrificial element in metal boats as an example. I don't know whether your library has a copy but it is well worth trying to get hold of one.


Years ago I had dealings with a company called Hill and Smith in the Black Country and they had a very large hot dip galvanising plant. I was able to get a friends radio aerial mast zinc coated, but I was in the fortunate position at the time to be able to do so. They may or may not take on work for a private individual but I suggest that you give them a ring. As I recollect it they did hot dip vehicle chassis at the time, but that was a long time ago.

Other companies within the Hill and Smith Holdings group do do powder coating and other metal coating processes. I cannot now reccomend them or otherwise because it's so long ago, but they did a good job on his aerial mast at the time and it didn't cost much.

Phone No. 01902 499400
E-Mail info@Hill-Smith.co.uk
Website www.Hill-Smith.co.uk

Location is Bilston, near Wolverhampton

Clive Evrall

J.C. Evrall

Hello Rob

I once came across a book called "Rust and Rot" by a Professor Diamant in which ha explained that rust is caused by an electrical action and that one of the best ways of preventing it is to zinc coat the article to be protected. He also pointed out the use of zinc as a sacrificial element in metal boats as an example. I don't know whether your library has a copy but it is well worth trying to get hold of one.


Years ago I had dealings with a company called Hill and Smith in the Black Country and they had a very large hot dip galvanising tank. I was able to get a friends radio aerial mast zinc coated, but I was in the fortunate position at the time to be able to do so. They may or may not take on work for a private individual but I suggest that you give them a ring. As I recollect it they did hot dip vehicle chassis at the time, but that was a long time ago.

Other companies within the Hill and Smith Holdings group do do powder coating and other metal coating processes. I cannot now reccomend them or otherwise because it's so long ago, but they did a good job on his aerial mast at the time and it didn't cost much.

Phone No. 01902 499400
E-Mail info@Hill-Smith.co.uk
Website www.Hill-Smith.co.uk

Location is Bilston, near Wolverhampton

Clive Evrall

J.C. Evrall

Thanks for your responses guys...seems zinc is the best...
Is there anyone out there who has used powder coating and has been happy / unhappy.

I would have thought that there might be a 'high performance' product for chassis but I cant seem to find one on the interweb?

Regards

Rob
Rob King

I think even a good coat of paint will do. 99% of our cars are stored in good conditions, cleaned regularly, used sparingly on dry unsalted roads. The need for bulletproof rustprevention is therefore much less.
I'm afraid the factory didn't pay much attention to a proper coat of paint on the chassis, leaving some places with a very thin layer?
Willem vd Veer

How true Willem - much less attention even was given to the self renewing anti rust system installed into every car ... the XPAG engine :-)

Paul
Paul Barrow

Devcon, maker of epoxies and the current owner of Permatex, has a product called Cold Galvanizing in a spray can.
S.R. Barrow

<<much less attention even was given to the self renewing anti rust system installed into every car ... the XPAG engine :-)>>

Here's a thought: if the Y had been rear engined, we wouldn't complain about rusted rear panels now!
Willem vd Veer

BTW, powdercoating is very usefull for finishing smaller parts that are not exposed to the elements or chipped by stones etc.. Because of it's hardness it is very dureable but also vulnerable to chipping.

All kind of brackets, plates and underbonnet parts can be powdercoated quickly and cheaply with very good results and it is excellent for motorcycle frames, I just wouldn't powdercoat a chassis

TVR powdercoated their chassis' and that is the part that rots...
Willem vd Veer

Hi all.
I'm not a professional restorer, but have been playing with MGs for many a long year!
Powder coating looks fine, but when it chips and it will, water gets underneath it and rusts so eventually the coating peels off, but not before the rust has taken its toll of the metal underneath!

If you can get a chassis shot/grit blasted, then you have the ideal base to treat it and preserve it for many years to come, without the expense of zinc coating.
With a clean chassis, paint it with TWO coats of Red Oxide primer, leaving at least two days between coats(5 days in winter)For any parts "on show" very lightly smooth with wet and dry. Apply TWO coats of Chassis Black(one day between coats)and leave to harden for 2 or 3 days.
Chassis Black is a generic name for a variety of black paint finishes, some of which are sold through the likes of Rimmer Bros, Frosts Auto Restorations and probably good paint shops. HOWEVER, for the last 30 years I have used a good quality "enamel" paint. Humbol is the best, in my opinion, but Japblac(International Paints) is a close second. Make sure the drain holes on the back of the chassis are kept clear and treat the inside of the chassis rails with Waxoyl.
Hope this helps.
Keith
Keith D Herkes

Galvanizing sounds a good idea, but if the chassis is likely to twist at 350 degrees fahrenheit during powder coating, what will happen above 722degrees fahrenheit, the melting point of zinc?

Michael
j m nicholson

This thread was discussed between 28/08/2010 and 04/09/2010

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