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MG MG Y Type - Rear end pinion seal replacement

Hey all, has anyone changed the rear end pinion seal and if so, how big a deal is it? Thanks, Tom
Thomas McNamara

I thought about doing mine myself Tom ... and then I started reading about backlash etc and realized it was pretty involved and had to be put together carefully ... so I farmed it out to a local transmission shop. It was worth what they charged to know it was done right.

That said - I took them a print out of the WSM pages too which they were very happy to have so they could do it right too.

Paul
Paul Barrow

I did the seal myself 8 years ago and didn't think it was a great deal. The diff is still functioning well.

Although the backlash etc. is of course a factor to consider, when only you only take off the flange, it shouldn't change that much when you retighten the nut correctly.

You will have to fabricate a bar with which you can fixate the flange. Otherwise you wont be able to loosen or tighten the big flange nut.
Willem van der Veer

Hey all, it appears that William is correct, changing the seal is not a big deal after all. I dropped the drive shaft and pulled the flange and the seal is right there. (BTW, I am working under a lift).

In my particular case, the surface on the flange that the seal sits on is slightly pitted. I am attempting to polish it, by hand, with emery cloth to make it smooth.

Does anyone know if any surface imperfections are allowable? Thanks and regards, Tom
Thomas McNamara

The seal itself is not under pressure so a less than perfect surface should work.
Also a modern seal is often thinner and because of that it seals on another surface than the old seal. This can be a good or bad thing, depending on where the surface is pitted.

To be absolutely sure a speedy sleeve can be used, but I know you are familiar with that solution.
Willem van der Veer

Hey Willem, good thinking. I looked for a speedi-sleeve but could not find one for a 1.366 shaft. Must be an old British standard? Be well, Tom
Thomas McNamara

Well, it is done. The old seal was leather! Had a heck of a time getting the seal out. It had metal walls on the front and rear, been thee since 1950?

The new seal from NTG fit nicely. I drove it home with a large socket. I also replace the "castelated" nuts and bolts with 5/16 X 1 nylocks. Tomorrow the 140 goes in. Tom
Thomas McNamara

My picture shows the marking on the pinion flange shaft nomally caused by grit and dust from the road which tears the seal and the shaft to hell,the austin A60 and like tried to cure the problem by fitting a shroud behind the uj.I have found the best cure is to drive the old seal further in and the the new seal up against it, the new seal then runs on an unmarked section of shaft.
John

JC Jebb

This thread was discussed between 17/09/2016 and 28/09/2016

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