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MG MG Y Type - Removal of starter motor

Help! The manual gives detailed and laborious instructions of completely removing the exhaust system from the exhaust manifold backwards and an elaborate method for manipulatiung the starter from its attachment to the bell housing and out onto the workshop bench. I am prepared to do this if it is the only way but has anyone found a simpler method? I will double check that the starter motor is the problem before I begin the extraction!!

My TF has less manual access around the engine bay due to the fixed panels and yet the starter motor comes out very easily. Perhaps the guys at Abingdon got some negative feedback from the mechanics in the dealer network and made it easier on later models!?

Rob
Rob Dunsterville

Rob, the only time I have ever done this, the engine was already out of the car - so maybe that was easier? Not being an expert you may find the manual correct as the draw required to clear the bendix or spinner end from the starter ring area may be more than the space allows. Good luck and let us know how you get one. Maybe after you are done you can write a 'Hints & Tips'note if you are succesful in finding a shorter cut to the job for us to publish on the website?

Paul
Paul Barrow

Rob,

it is possible to remove the starter without removing the whole exhaust system but it is an absolute swine of a job. You will receive bruised and cut knuckles in the process and need the patience of a Saint. It can be wiggled about and lifted vertically past the steering column. The job is made simpler by removing the front section of the exhaust - if you can seperate it from the silencer without more bruising of your knuckles. Go for it but have plenty of plasters to hand.

I only know of one job that beats this one in the difficulty stakes (unless anyone knows differently)and that is replacing an original stop light switch. Don't attempt them both on the same day.

jack
J.L. Murray

Jack - thanks for your input. I will pose sseveral questions here but it may be easier for us to communicate by email direct and then advise owners of any results when they occur.

I have removed the two stays and the bracket came off the gearbox as the clamp wouldn't come off the bracket! Two of the exhaust manifold flange nuts have been removed but there is a pile of washers on the studs which seem to be rusted on! The third nut at the back has not yielded yet and appears to be holding on well!

Added to this frustration is the fact that the nut and bolt holding the exhaust system at the back end wont yield and the one near the back of the silencer is very difficult to get at with obstructions in the way.

Thus I am leaning heavily towards your suggestion of not moving the exhaust system at all and trying to wriggle the started motor out. However if I get it half out and then stuck I may not be able to drive the YT to an auto electrician for professional help.

If I get it part way out will the fly wheel turn unobstructed as I am able to start the car on the handle and use it that way?

My first thought for an alternative method while I have been as patient as a saint and as yet have not damaged myself - maybe I haven't been trying hard enough!! - is to remove the carbs and inlet manifold and exhaust manifold to make more room for the extraction over the steering column rather than under it.

My second thought is to remove the three nuts and bolts holding the steering column to the arm from the rack. The column should move a little as the gap in the bulkhead is quite large but if that is not sufficient more movement will be achieved if the column is detached from the bracket near the steering wheel.

With the column not obstructing the extraction as much the starter may come out easily. I did double check that the problem was not the starter switch.

If you also email me your telephone number it may be worth my while phoning you instead of lengthy exchanges of emails.

Do you know anyone else who is a practical expert?

Thanks so far

Rob
Rob Dunstreville

Hi Rob
Unless by being a saint you are also a miracle worker I would not advise adding disturbing the steering column and rack to your sins!

Patience may be a virtue, but driving a Y Type IS a grace, after all Cecil Kimber used the phrase Grace, Pace, & Space long before Mr Lyons did!

Have you applied heat (lots of) to the stubborn nut? Have a care as the fuel system is directly above you though.

Good luck,

Paul
Paul Barrow

As Jack Murrey states you can remove the starter (with Difficulty) without removing the exhaust system, but another important thing to watch for is when you replace the thick cable, ensure that it is well away from the steering column as I have recently found out, if it catches on the clip holding the wires onto the column, the wires will be pulled out of the slip ring, resulting in no horn or trafficators and one big headache.
Steve Randle

Hi Paul, Jack, Steve and Alf in Sydney

Thanks for all your encouragement and advice and collectively we have all been rewarded with the starter motor now lying on my work bench awaiting carriage to my local auto electrician who is 73 and 'knows all about Y Types and Lucas systems'. Hopefully he has passed enough on to his son who, although he's a Bosch man, will look after the likes of me for a few more years to come.

The extraction was not as difficult as I imagined and once it's been rebuilt and re-installed I will write a piece for the tech column.

Also I am pleased to say that I suffered no cuts or abrasions and still had 90% of my patience left in tact. I use thin latex gloves whenever practical which at about 5c each is economical enough. These keep my nails and cuticles clean which is essential as we run a B&B.

For the number crunchers in our Register the motor is the right one according to the w/manual and stamped 11 48 which I believe means Lucas made it in November 1948 for our June 1949 YT. An old auto electrician and ex-road service patrol man locally has another M148G LO service part number which I will buy, have him overhaul and hold as a spare for us or ready to lend to another owner in emergency.

He gave me some useful info regarding dynamos. We and T Typers all need the drive and reduction box on the back when looking for a spare unit. He says the same drive/box is on the back of dynamos fitted to Brit tractors of the same period as they had tachos and no speedometers. So look out for a tractor spares place or scrap yard or restorer who may have one

Watch this space!

Rob
Rob Dusnterville

This thread was discussed between 17/04/2005 and 21/04/2005

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