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MG MG Y Type - Temperature gage

For some reason, MG did not put a temperature gage in the Y. I wouldlie to know this information. Can anyone give me some advice as to how to add this gage. I am sure that this has been covered before.
MEL Lutz

Mike

Try this link from the BBS Archives http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=13&subjectar=13&thread=2003022400200813689

Paul

Paul Barrow

I fitted one last year in the elbow between the thermostat housing and the block. It works well and seems to be accurate as far as I can judge.

The BSP tap for the thread cost more than the temperature gauge - about STG£50 as I recall !

The only problem is a small weep of water. The casting wall is thin, the thread fit not the tightest, and the silicone sealant isn't doing the job.

I was going to drain it down and use epoxy resin the cure the problem but I've just sold the car and left the new owner to deal with it.

Contact me if you want more detail and pictures.
Michael

I have fitted temperature gauges on both my Y's - Saloon & Tourer.

I opted to use electrical, rather than capillary, as the senders are much smaller and the gauge & wiring can be removed quickly for "Concours" originality.

The senders I have fitted to the elbow below the thermostat (Saloon on RHS, Tourer on LHS)using a tapered tap - plenty of metal. While driving you can watch the temperature vary due to load/heat sink/thermostat operation. You are wasting your time fitting the sender in any other location on the engine or radiator. You need to be reading the temperature of the water as it leaves the engine.

A proper non-bypass functioning thermostat is the most important item to an operating engine. Do not underestimate the importance of controlling (and maintaining) optimum engine temperature. Avoid using simple waxstats - spend the money and get a non-bypass thermostat - just like the factory installed.

I think the best installation is to put the sender on the LHS of the elbow, and run the sender wire through a tube bolted to the side of the tappet cover, leading it through the firewall, and to the gauge mounted (inside the glovebox of the Saloon, or on a bracket below the dash - RHS of steering on the Tourer). The Tourer gauge & wiring can be removed in less than 5 minutes. Most Concours judges should ignore the sender left in the elbow if the wiring is removed (but that might start an arguement !).

If you mount the sender on the RHS of the elbow, the wiring back to the firewall is a little more complex.

If anyone is interested, I am happy to post a photo if my description is not clear.
A Slattery

If you can get 50 pounds for a taper tap, I'll buy 2 dozen and send them to the register to sell for a much, much lower price !. We still make taps here in Australia (at the moment, anyway).
A Slattery

Sounds like a great article for the Hints and tips section, some photos and a fleshed out description with models and part numbers etc would be valued by many, I am sure.

Cheers
Murray
Murray

I purchased a 52mm electric water temperature gauge from 'Vehicle Wiring Products' along with an electric rev counter which are both mounted together on a sub panel below the centre of the dash. I suppose it could be unplugged and removed if needed. The sender I soft soldered into the radiator header, my idea is to monitor the actual radiator temperature since I have also fitted an electric cooling fan. If anyone is thinking of fitting a fan my oppinion is that it would be advisable to pressurise the system to give adequate head room to the 95degC thermostat. I have run the radiator overflow to an ex MGB pressure tank. So far only the initial running has been in the workshop at up to around 2000revs but the system held the rad below 100degC for some hours. My only doubt was the ability of the water pump gland to cope with the pressure so I fitted a TF pump which has a pressurised system. I hope this is of some help.
Bryan

This thread was discussed between 18/06/2009 and 20/06/2009

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