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MG MG Y Type - YA wiring - gauge cluster.

For my sins, I'm enjoying prepping the sub-loom which feeds into the gauge cluster from the Control Box and Junction Box. My preferred method is a trial layout with the gauge cluster on the bench, especially as the body is away having headlining installed.
My Autosparks loom is pretty true to the manual, except using YB colours, which I work around; it does have a couple of oddities which, if I can't resolve, I may post later.
In the meantime, would anyone be able to post a photo of their completed (or original) YA gauge cluster wiring? It would be very helpful to confirm a few items before I go too far. I'm electrically capable, but happy to keep learning.
Yours,
John.
J P Hall

A couple of weeks ago I could have taken that photo......

Just one tip - wire up the instruments on the bench and feed the loom through the firewall & connect at the regulator.

Wiring the dash in place is simply too difficult and back breaking work.

Keep going Safety Fast

Tony
The Classic Workshop
A L SLATTERY

Yes that's just what I plan, Tony. A "first go" on the bench now, with a couple of queries that I hope to post later today, once I get a photo sorted. Then once I'm happy, much tinning of wires for (hopefully) good grip under the poor little grub screws - especially the ammeter! OR - maybe someone here might have a better recommendation for securing the wires to the gauges. PS I don't plan to go to negative earth at this stage - this is my wife's favourite shopping car, no satnav, no radio, no nothing.
Still hoping someone might offer up a "back of gauge cluster" wiring photo, either original or rebuilt - just for reference.
Yours,
John.
J P Hall

you do not have to go positive earth for radio or sat nave etc. Just mount well isolated from the body and then feed a separate wire with fuses to the + terminal and separate wire to the -. Easy to remove the items later.

Paul
Paul Barrow

you do not have to go positive earth for radio or sat nave etc. Just mount well isolated from the body and then feed a separate wire with fuses to the + terminal and separate wire to the -.

Paul
Paul Barrow

I heard you the first time, Paul!

Now then: not a good photo, but here's my first muck-around with the back of the gauge cluster. A couple of questions from experienced folks please:
(1) The 2 white arrows (top left) show what I thought were 2 individual red wires from the loom which didn't belong anywhere. On continuity test though, it seems to be just one red wire which disappears into the cloth braid, then loops back and comes out again. There is no continuity from this looped wire to any other wire in the sub-loom. Anyone know what might be the purpose of this feature in the loom? Of course I can ask NTG from whom I bought the loom a couple of years ago - but this forum is usually pretty quick to join in and share the knowledge.

(2) In a couple of locations, 3 wires enter a terminal - notably the Lighting Switch at S1, and the Panel Light Switch. I'm concerned also about the security of the 2 wires feeding into Ammeter terminal B. The 70-plus year old grub screws may well cope once I tin the wires - but I'm thinking of using a single feeder wire out from the grub screw and then joining the 3 incoming wires with a modern multi-pin joiner. Any comments from experienced restorers?

The astute observer will note that I have used the original bulb holders, joining them to the blue wires supplied with the loom. They work well, and deserve another life - along with many other parts on this car!

All ideas gratefully received.
John.


J P Hall

So, an early car with a "push button" starter Mr Hall ?.

Tony
The Classic Workshop
A L SLATTERY

Indeed, Mr Slattery.
No offerings to clarify the looped red wire - but on forensic examination of my original, I found exactly the same looped wire - so I think it might just be to provide the bridge wire between lighting switch and foglamp switch. Do you concur Tony?
John.
J P Hall

I think you are correct with the bridging theory JP. Cannot really remember from when I did mine.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Working from memory (which is never good), I think the foglight only works with the parking/head lights on (same as reverse light).

I will check the wiring diagram.

Safety Fast

Tony
A L SLATTERY

Print this on A3 paper it will help.

Cheers

Tony

BTW - this is on the website under "Technical Centre" - Technical Data" - "Wiring Diagrams".
A L SLATTERY

That's the diagram I'm work8ng from. You can see the red ("1") bridge wire from fog lamp up to PPG1 lighting switch. I just hadn't expected the looms to provide for that, so had laid in my own separate wire - since removed.
As I can't get switches to work under power until circuits are complete (at least I think that's why!), I now have to wait until I can get the body shell back home later this week - then the fun starts.
PS Tony - I haven't heard anything: is the 75th still on in June?
J P Hall

This thread was discussed between 01/02/2022 and 06/02/2022

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