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MG MG Y Type - YB Steering rack improvement

If a steering rack fails a MOT because of movement what would the best thing to do? Can tese be improved or serviced in situ or is a matter of total replacement or servicing professionally? Do we know if there any around to pick at the moment? Chris
Chris Blood

Hi Chris

It is not unheard of but I am very surprised that the Rack & Pinion is that badly worn. Although I am somewhat out of touch with MOT Testing now (having done more than I care to remember in the past) I wasnt aware of it being something that they'd check.

Firstly though I would ensure that your current rack IS securely bolted to the frame. It may be that the movement they have picked up might be the rack shifting a little in its C clips to the frame.

Secondly, is the freeplay at the rack end or at the steering wheel end? There is supposed to be two felt spiral "washers" one in either end of the column that if they are not there will give a lot of wobble. They are a total P-I-T-A to fit and I wouldnt be surprised if they are missing.

Once that has been eliminated, and it really is wear on the R&P then yes, it will have to be professionally rebuilt. On the plus side, it is the same rack in an MG TD or TF I beleive, so if you hear of one being broken for parts that would be a fitting use for a T Type and a reversal of use after so many Ys being broken for T Parts over the years :-)).

Good luck Chris,

Paul
Paul Barrow

Thanks Paul, between then and now I have managed to ascertain that the R&P (not the steering wheel end) is the problem ... actually there was no decent grease in it and probably has been like that for quite a while. A few chim adjustments now being done so looking better that a few hours ago. Cheers Chris
Chris Blood

Chris-

Many years ago when doing an overhaul on my TD-MKII (RHD), my mechanic suggested and applied a mod to the rack housing which has served well for several decades of race and road use. He drilled out the extra boss, where the damper would have been fitted for the LHD model, tapped it and fitted another stock damper assembly, (cap, spring, plunger, etc.). For what it is worth.

Paul
TDs YB A7s
Paul Gaynor

Quick note to all on Steering Rack Lubrication!!!!

Although the rack has a "grease nipple" on it it does not take grease but a thick SAE 140 weight OIL that you will have to load into a clean grease gun. I suggest that you buy another one for that, but ensure that it can deal with oil not grease before you buy it, then mark it accordingly.

SAE 140 is good in temperatures down to -12 degrees Celcius (+10 degrees Farenheit). Below that use SAE 80.

Both of the above are the same weights as you use in the rear axle and gearbox so the investment in oil isnt that bad.

Before you start pumping in, make sure your steering rack gaiters are in good condition and not leaking, and that they are appropriately and securely secured to the steering rack tie rods and the steering rack casing with either tie wraps or clamps. Lazy steering aligners may have loosened or cut these clamps in the past or when the gaiters were replaced at some time they may not have been adequately secured as you need nimble little fingers and patience to get them secured sometimes.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hi Chris
With some steering racks it is possible to dismantle and extract the rack from the housing and put it back in the the opposite way. The pinion would then engage with a "new" bit of the rack. Not much good if the pinion is worn, however.

I don't know if it possible to do this with the Y type rack.

Geoff
G Wells

This thread was discussed between 08/05/2009 and 11/05/2009

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