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MG MG Y Type - YT Door shaping

Over the years my YT doors have lost their shape and natural curve inwards at the bottom of the door. What solutions have others used to overcome this please?

Paul
Paul Barrow

Watch this video Paul: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdXmQlZ9yfY It may or may not suit an older car, but it's worth considering. Let us know how you get on.
R Taylor

Paul
I replaced the single metal strap in each door with a s/s wire and turnbuckle. With the braces on each door I was able to adjust the door extensively.

It may be hard to view the wire and turnbuckle in photo against the sound insulation on the door skin.

See photos

Stuart

Stuart Duncan

2nd photo - enlargement of turnbuckle. Carpet piece place behind so turnbuckle easier to see.

Stuart Duncan

Before & after photos of door gap

I hope this information is helpful.

I wrote an article which was published, but cannot find the article or publication now.

Stuart

Stuart Duncan

Found article and sent to Paul for inclusion on IMGYTR website. It includes above photos

cheers
Stuart
Stuart Duncan

Rob - thanks for the video. Probably works OK on metal framed doors but the YT has timber framed doors. The front bottom edge of the door was designed (and the timber frame accordingly shaped) to draw the bottom of the door in to follow the contours of the door opening. When the wood looses its shape the door sags out of alignment. It is a common problem on T Series as well but not on the Y/YB thankfully. On Y/YB the bottom of the steel door just rots and falls out instead- LOL but then you can get replacement skin panels for that from NTG and Sportscar Metalworks!

Thanks for the Article Stuart. Anton Piller did something similar but I will follow your suggestions for sure.

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hi Paul et al, a bit more info for you on this topic. We in the TC Owners Club have over the years developed a proceedure for Prewar,TC,TD,TF and YT doors. The guys have discovered that they have had more success using threaded rod and turnbuckles in many cases. The advantage of threaded rod is that not only is the assembly more rigid but you can also push as well as pull into the corners to get the desired shape. Hopefully someone has documented this with pictures, I will try to get you a copy.
Cheers
Richo
R A Prior

Hi Richo

I looked on the TD-TF board and searched the archives and saw that threaded rod had been used. I like that idea too as it can be a one man operation too whereas the wire option is definitely a two man set up.

For YT though, versus TD, do you think just using rod to go from the bottom front corner to the middle wood along the diagonal line of the door strut will be enough rather than going to the top rear corner?

Paul
Paul Barrow

Hi Paul,
I believe that could be an option if you only need to apply a little tension to move the door a small amount to get the door fitting correctly. But if more force is reqired it might depend on how solid that horisontal member is mounted. You could always fit a small vertical timber up to the horisontal close to the rod mounting point would make it more solid. More memory of what is inside a YT door is very faded!!!
Cheers
Richo
R A Prior

Hi Richo

The actual cross piece is good in both cars and I was thinking of bracing it at the hinge vertical piece with a metal T and putting two L angles at the door.

Paul
Paul Barrow

This thread was discussed between 15/10/2017 and 18/10/2017

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