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MG MGA - Fender repair

I am trying to determine the gauge of steel that was used to orininally fabricate the fenders for an MGA. Would anyone out there have the answer?

Also, I need to replace the lower 6"-7" of both rear fenders doglegs. I see that MOSS and others offer a repair section for this application.

Looking for some feedback on the quality and fit of these fender repair sections. Has any one utilized these parts for repair?

Thanks,
Fran
F Valenzano

Apart from the frame metal I think nearly all the other sheet steel I've measured on the car comes out at around 43 thou (0.043"). This puts it as near as dammit as 19 gauge but it's best not talking about gauges because English and American gauges are a bit different. Trouble is most sheet metal suppliers talk in terms of gauges. 19 gauge is not normally stocked over here so I go for 20 gauge or 1mm which are almost identical at 39 thou. 18 gauge (49 thou) is more difficult to cut and form but perhaps easier to butt weld. However, don't go to buy any sheet without taking along a micrometer because the variation within a gauge is quite high. I got some 1mm sheet a couple of weeks ago but I had to go through six or more sheets to get the right thickness.

If you're replacing the rear wing sections I would suggest you first look at Malcolm Green's book to see the pitfalls of using reproduction repair panels...........................Mike
m.j. moore

I have used the Moss panels many times. The shape is OK but they are too flat at the bottom. The curve of the bottom 4" is too flat and must be recontoured. If the rust does not extend up into the wheel lip contour you can just make do with flat steel and bend it yourself. Dont think you need to use the whole dogleg piece. Only cut off and use as little as you can to get rid of the rust.
Study all you can on this site: http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/mga.html
And on Barney's well documented repairs to his car:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt602.htm
This pic is from Barney's site and shown the fit between the dogleg and the inner fender piece (with the rubber) This is where the curve is too flat on the store bought pieces.


R J Brown

Hi Fran
What is important there is the curve to match the lower aft door curve. Install the fender and door, if you have them of, and only then cut and line up the dog leg. To modify the curve is very dificult/inpossible. The rest of the dog leg, to fit, is just straight cuts and bends.
good luck

Martin
m zazvorka

The fit is not great, I think you will have to stretch the metal a bit to have both the fender curve and the door jam line-up perfectly.
David Werblow

Thanks guys. I will have to consider my options before I start this project.

Is the repair patch designed to be butt welded to the main fender with a MIG welder?
F Valenzano

I bought a sheet of 18g metal here in the US to work on my car - seemed to be right.

I just used the Moss repair parts and they were OK for me - but did require some reforming and a cut and weld to tweak the curve at the bottom of the door. Still beats the heck out of trying to make it yourself from scratch, or paying big $$$ for a new fender (which would also probably need some fitting).

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Fran,
It is designed to be butt welded, however, think carefully before just cutting your dogleg off and welding the new one on. As others have said, these panels are not well shaped. I cut out the rusted area and used only what was absolutely necessary. It takes a bit longer, but in the end you'll be a lot happier.
Cheers,
GTF
G T Foster

This thread was discussed between 06/06/2010 and 07/06/2010

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