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MG MGA - front end bearings

Well, replacing the A-arm bushings has turned into a front-end overhaul. A familiar story I'm sure...

I have a question about the large and small bearings in the front wheel hubs. Are they a special size, or is this something I should be able to source locally? I'd like to replace them this weekend and not have to wait for delivery.

Thanks,

Darian
Darian Henderson

Darian

These are standard roller bearings available from any bearing suppliers. The number relates to the size, the letters relate to load capability, so if in doubt just go for a higher load spec.

The numbers are printed or etched onto the bearings so just take a pair along when you go shopping
dominic clancy

Thanks, Dominic, I appreciate it.

Darian
Darian Henderson

You might want to read this thread from the archives
http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=6&subjectar=6&thread=2002122618450518764
John DeWolf

By the way, it's a long story but I don't have the inner bearing from the side I'm working on anymore. I would like to do one side at a time so that I don't mix parts. Does anyone know the correct specs offhand?

Thanks,

Darian
Darian Henderson

Hi John,

How'd you find that? I did a search but found nothing...

Anyway, I'm a little confused after reading that, but it sounds like I could just ask for SKF 6304 and 6306. Is this correct?

Thanks,

Darian
Darian Henderson

Darian,you can ask for bearing # 6304 or 6306.Skf is the brand.Be careful not all bearings are made here anymore,just like everything else.
gary starr

I referenced that thread so you could make sure you considered the right tolerances and didn't get stuck with whatever was in stock at some bearing supplier. At least you should be aware of the various tolerances and ask what is available. I believe that those are the correct SKF references,and most suppliers could cross reference from that, but it would still be best to take originals with you, in my experience the better counter people usually want to measure them. Just keep the parts from the two sides separate if you are concerned about a mix-up.
John DeWolf

Thanks, I hadn't even thought about the tolerances. Lot's of options out there...

Darian
Darian Henderson

Darian,
The bearings should fit snugly in the hub. If not make sure that the inside of the hub does not have any indication of the outside race spinning in the hub. This could be a cause of loose fitting bearings. Found this on my TF during restoration. If the inside looks good and a bearing is still a little loose you can use locktite on it. Have a good day!

John
John Progess

You guys are all making the assumption that this car takes ball bearings, although the poster didn't identify which model it is.

Twincams and Deluxe take taper roller of course.

Chances are you guys will be right, but probably safer to ask before possibly steering a guy wrong.
Bill Spohn

From Darian's posting of 28 Dec 2006

"Nope, it's got drum breaks in the back, disks in the front."

John DeWolf

Tolerances should not be an issue, it's the load rating that counts - too low a rating and the bearing will fail prematurely, which is why a higher load rating is always the way to go. If the bearings are a loose fit, then locktite is only a temporary fix, and the worn part will need to be replaced.
dominic clancy

Dominic
You seem to have missed the point.

Bearings are manufactured with different degrees of loosenes within the bearing. Too loose a grade will result in excessive movement of the wheel. There has been quite a bit of discussion about this in the past.
John DeWolf

John, absolutely correct. For SKF bearings the ball to race clearance is coded as a number like C3 which is standard. I found standard to be too loose for my liking and a C2 gave much less slop at the rim. So probably a good bet is to go one size tighter than standard for other makes.
Art Pearse

This thread was discussed between 02/01/2008 and 05/01/2008

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