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MG MGA - hood frame fixing

Does anyone know the part Nos. for the captive nuts and bolts that hold the hood frame to the inside of the car. I have browsed Brown & Gammons, ans Moss's catalogues with no success.
Thanks
Nigel Munford

Bottom two are countersunk and top one is hex. head. Length 3/4" and 1/4" UNF. Door hinge screws would do for the C/S ones.

Captive nuts should already be in place.....if they are not you have a spot of bother!........Mike
m.j. moore

Thanks Mike, They are in place, but have been stripped by various other bolts being forced through in their history. I intend to replace the nuts as well!!!
Nigel Munford

If it matters to you, the lower two are pozidrive screws (the same as the original door hinge screws).
Ken Korey

That's a significant job Nigel. Can you not just tap them out to 5/16"?
Art Pearse

I have replaced mine with flat headed socket screws (Unbrako)- 3 on each side (all countersunk heads)1/4" UNF 28 tpi. I prefer these rather than the original as I regularly remove my hood during the year to bolt in my roll-over bar for competition (hillclimb annd sprints). I also use a good quality anti-seize on the threads. Helicoil inserts may solve your problem.
http://www.unbrako.com.au/standards.htm
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Nigel,
If you need to drill and tap the holes for the next size up, I probably have the right taps and suitable bolts.
Call or drop in if I can be of assistance.
Kind regards
Geoff
GM McGladdery

The captive nuts are 1/4-28-UNF square nut floating in a sheet metal cage. You can buy square nuts, or even make your own. I don't recall ever seeing the spot welded cage sold alone. Standard prescription for repair is cut and weld to replace a rectangular sheet metal piece that carries three cage nuts.

If the thread is stripped, you may be able to install a Heli-Coil. The floating square nut is pretty thin, but if the Heli-Coil works it can eliminate a lot of fuss with cut and weld and repaint.

I have a page for this on my web site. First time around I cut open the back side of the B-post to open one side of the cage to replace the square nuts. Of course they do go rusty again. Second time around I welded in a 5/16" thick steel plate with tapped holes. That piece is pretty robust. If the threads ever give out I could use Heli-Coils for repair.

Meanwhile I use high strength socket head screws and a Allen key wrench for good leverage and plenty of torque. Had a tough time getting those out after several years. Now I use stainless steel socket head screws and lots of anti-seize on the threads. Same screws for the door hinges and striker plates. Originality is nice, but otherwise form follows function.
Barney Gaylord

Thanks Geoff, I hope you are enjoying retirement, and I hope your Spanish rally went well. See you soon.
Nigel Munford

Hi Nigel

I have a spare set of the hood bolts which you are welcome to if you need them.

Regards...JB
John Bray

Thanks John,
But I will take up Geoff's offer in the near future.
Nigel Munford

Todd Clarke of Clarke Spares has the pieces that you are looking for. clarkespares@att.net.
Keith Lowman

John, If the offer still stands, I will take them off your hands, just in case. Let me know what I owe you, and I will settle up, maybe via paypal?Please email me direct with details
Regards.
Nigel Munford

I ordered these from Todd Clarke two ways - 1) he sells the captive square nut and cage which you can use to reweld to match the original, or 2) he sells a repair piece which can be welded in without disassembling the B pillar.

In order to replace the captive nuts and cages, you have to open the B Pillar up to get at them. The repair kit piece allows you to cut a slot from the front to remove them, and rivet or reweld from the inside of the car. If your car is already painted, you can rivet the repair piece in and not have to burn up a lot of your paint. It's covered by the side panels anyway, and doesn't show.

Lastly, I made a repair panel of my own before ordering from Todd - I took captive nuts/cages and welded them to a piece of metal larger than the hole I had to cut, and it worked fine.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Hi Nigel,

PM sent, no payment necessary
John Bray

This thread was discussed between 26/05/2011 and 06/06/2011

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