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MG MGA - Intalling Fender Piping

Well, I just finished pulling out all the old piping out of my care to get it ready for painting.
I loosened all the retaining bolts and was able to pull it out with a lot of persuasion as it was pretty stuck after 15 odd years.
In between I found a lot dust and dirt but no rust, which is positive.

This well they will start preparing it for painting.

I was thinking what will be the best way to install it.
I have read Barney's site on this topic, but was wondering if squirting some liquid may make easier the installation, and ensure a good fit.

I thought like;

- soapy water - which should dry, but has the risk of rusting.

- WD40 - but may soften the new paintwork.

- vaseline ?

Maybe none of this is needed I am just weary that the piping didn't come out that easily, so the reverse will be difficult...

I was just wondering if any of you had done this recently or found a nice trick.
Gonzalo Ramos

Gonzalo,
I don't recall whether or not your car will be painted with the fenders removed. If it is, those surfaces should be nice and clean. If not, clean them. Clean the piping. It should go in without any "liquid".
Good luck,
Gerry
G T Foster

Gonzalo, One small suggestion. Do not tighten up the mudguard bolts too tightly (as I did) because they will pull creases in the tops of the guards--a common sight with MGA's!
Barry Bahnisch

Gonzalo, I did this job years ago.

1) The mating surface of the fenders and the body tub should be flat where they come together. In that the no area of either mating surface should protrude further than another. If mating surfaces are not flat, then the area where they protrude will tend to push out the piping in that area. Don't allow the fenders to hang on a "few" the bolts when the body prep fellow works on the fenders, pressure or weight will distort/bend the mating surface.
You want the fenders and body tub to contact the piping just below the horizontal area of the piping.
Or to say at the very top of the vertical surface on the piping. If the fender or body tub is distorted it will make the fender/body tub contact the piping in the middle of the vertical surface. When you tighten the bolt, the distortion will make the piping push out in this area.
2) The piping I received years ago was very stretchy. You will want the enviroment to be warm to prestretch the piping. Straighten it out when it arrives in the mail. Let it lay along a straight line to allow any wringles to relax.
3) Do not put on any liguid when installing.

Ray
Ray Ammeter

Just did this this week, Gonzalo...

I have Moss piping, but it was ordered in 1996 or 1998, so not sure whether the new stuff is the same.

The tricky part is cutting the notches out - save your old piping as a pattern if you can - I didn't have any to save.

With the fender bolts loosely installed, it is easy to insert the piping and tighten the bolts working from one end to the other, keeping the piping pressed down tight as you go.

JIM
AJ Mail

Do as Jim suggests, expect to take a long time! I have never used any lubricant.

I have done several and it cannot be hurried.
Last assembly I did 3 guards (fenders) in 5 hours, the last guard took 4 hours, and several attempts, and lots of angst!! You must be patient.

Good luck, Barry
Barry Gannon

I would assume a silicone oil or spray lubricant would be best if you needed a lubricant - would not cause rust or damage paint work. I am planning on replacing the piping on my green car soon so would be interested in your findings. It has been recommended to me to use a right angle drive pneumatic nut runner for job - makes it easy to make numerous small adjustment to clamping pressure. Comments please?
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Gonzalo,
This what I did. I had read this somewhere, so I can't claim this is my idea although I made a few small changes.

With the fenders (wings) on the car:
1) Install flat washers between the fender
and the body at the bolts.
Before installing the washers, slot one
side out, using a die grinder or hacksaw.
(This part was my twist.)
Install with the open end up.
2) The washers allow you to align the fender
properly before the final paint. There
will be a small space between the fender
flange and body. This allows paint to flow
in nicely on the inner flanges.
(They should have ben previously painted.)
3) When you install the piping loosen 3
of the bolts in a row and remove the
washers from them. This leaves a small
space to slip the piping down. Slip the
piping in, tighten the first bolt, then
loosen the next bolt in line, continuing
down the fender in this fashion.
3) It prevents having to loosen too many
bolts at once and makes the piping
easier to install, although there is
still some resistance. It also minimizes
the chance of the fender moving while
you do this and nicking the paint.

Ralph
Ralph

Ok, thanks for the techniques! I will let you know what the result is as soon as the car is painted.

Gonzalo Ramos

This thread was discussed between 05/10/2010 and 07/10/2010

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