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MG MGA - MGA floorboard plans/patterns, anyone?




Has anybody a link or reference to a set of MGA ply foorplans? Preferably with the fastenings marked out .
Fingers crossed and thanks - in anticipation!
M THOMPSON

Todd Clark (Clark Spares and Restorations) has a set of blue prints that has the holes for the seat rails marked out.

As far as the fastener holes that hold it in place I would suggest fitting new floorboard to your car and then mark from underneath for exact location.

Good Luck.
Lmazoway

See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/frame/fr112.htm
Barney Gaylord

I just used a set of the Todd Clarke plans, and they generally worked very well (no originals to use as patterns in my case, as I had pitched them long ago). Do not rely on a pattern for your hole locations unless you have a pristine, untouched original car, and even then, I don't know that they are all 100% the same. On a set from another member I saw, I noticed the holes are also drilled quite oversized - I don't know if that was original or later bodging. Marking the holes from the underside is a bear to do - I used a short stubby pencil and a lot of cursing and a few missed holes, but fortunately the wonderful reproduction fasteners (largish washers) also from Todd Clarke hide a lot of mistakes.

When installing the floorboards I had to do a bit of final trimming once I actually tried to fit them up against the transmission tunnel. Again - either my tunnel is a bit bent after fifty some odd years, or the replacement floor rails aren't perfectly aligned, or the pattern is a wee bit generous to allow for fitting in situ...

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Floor boards I got from Moss were pre-drilled as I recall and the overall fit was bad. It took hours to re-work them. I think it would have been faster to go from scratch. I did find that drilling up from below the car worked good.
Cheers,
GTF
G T Foster

I made my own floorboards using the CSR patterns. I cut each one out as they are supplied full size. Place each one in location and adjust the edge geometry to suit your chassis. Some tweaking will be necessary. Not hard to do really. I did purchase the two toe boards up front from SF. They were pretty good, but also required some re-work to fit my frame/tunnel specifics. Also, I used 1/2" sanded plywood for those I made, the SF pieces were 3/8". There's a LOT of discussion in the archives on floorboard thickness, I don't want to start that again!
G Goeppner

I found an effetcive way to mark the holes without going under the car, was to make some screws with a cone point both ends. The upper screw end also has a slot in it to screw in an out. The board is dropped onto the pointed screws pressed down and it makes a nice centre mark on the boards. The holes in my original boards were about 10mm diameter.
John Francis

This thread was discussed between 29/06/2010 and 02/07/2010

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