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MG MGA - Paint for front suspension parts

I have just re-fitted the front and rear splash panels after getting them sand blasted and repainted.
After spending quite some time fitting the front ones I noticed that the front suspension was looking a little bit tatty.
Paint has begun to flake off the wishbones and it is beginning to look like the upper and lower links have never been painted. Also, some of the seals on the links are beginning to crack and the rubber kingpin seals seem to have dissolved away. The paint and seals were last done 5 years ago.

So as I am going to have to dismantle it all to replace the seals I may as well repaint it at the same time.

Whats the best way to repaint these parts, I may as well use the best available whilst I have it all stripped down.

Colyn
Colyn Firth

I believe these parts were originally left bright or natural. I recently got a rebuilt set of shocks which were painted satin black, but my originals had never been painted.

If you want to paint them, there are some very good "brake caliper" paints on the market which should hold up well and don't require primer, but be very sure to clean everything first with acetone or naptha or the like to allow a good bond.

Getting to the bottom kingpin seal is a pain - the whole shebang has to come apart as I just found out this past weekend!

I did remove the shock mounting studs and replaced them with grade 8 bolts and lockwashers - which allow the shocks to be removed from the car with the body on, and I would recommend that modification. Moss sells the hardware as a kit.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Colyn,hard to say what tools do you have what skill level. 26 years ago I sandblasted my parts and used DuPont's Imron products and it still looks like the day I did it. Dangerous products to use health wise. Bottom line is if you want them to last you'd have to treat them like body painting- get them clean,and use quality compatible paint systems.

Jim I saw your advise before on the shock studs, and feel a comment is needed.I for one not sure I'd change. Studs were used for a reason,they do locate the upper suspension mounts,because they are more than just a shock mount. Do some research on the difference between studs vs bolts. Here's one I found doing a quick search-
http://www.ehow.com/facts_7506579_studs-vs-bolts.html
gary starr

Got to agree with Gary about the studs, but not for the BS reasons that article gives. Studs have a smooth body section to locate the part, while commonly available bolts in that length normally do not. Locating heavily loaded critical position parts on threads is a no-go.

I've changed hundreds of MGA shocks without removing the body.

FRM
FR Millmore

I blasted mine in the cabinet with aluminum oxide and powder coated. I used black, which is probably not correct, but they make powder that mimics cast iron as well. The important thing is to be sure to keep the media out of the internal areas. I used a combination of duct tape and rubber plugs. Seemed to work well. Also, if powder coating ALL traces of grease need to be removed or it will creep out and ruin the finish when the part is baked.
Del Rawlins

I dont have any spray equipment (or any skills in spray painting except for using aerosol paints) and I was thinking of removing what paint,grease and "corrosion" is on the wishbones and suspension links etc.
(Cant use the R-word on this forum apparently)
Maybe I will get the parts dipped to strip the paint before I start.

I have some new cans of compatible de-greaser, surface prep, POR-15 and POR-15 top coat that I have been looking for an excuse to use for some time now and I wondered if maybe the front suspension is the ideal place for it.

It is all for brush paint application which is ideal for me (I know you need lots of ventilation when using POR-15)

Cheers

Colyn


Colyn Firth

Colyn, I've seen the POR-15 as applied by brush, I think you will be pleased with the results vs spraying.

Cheers, George
G Goeppner

POR-15 will be fine in this application. Get the metal as clean as possible. I've used a lot of POR-15 over the years, and it seems to do best with a sandblasted surface.
Del Rawlins

Definitely POR-15 Great product. But beware if you put the lid back on with any paint on the rim you WILL not get it off again.

I always wrap the lid in cling film before i put it back on the tin.



Pete
P D HEWITT

The bolts from Moss have an enlarged shoulder to locate the shock very nicely - that is one of the reasons I am glad I got the kit from them vs. just buying some bolts locally. I think it is well thought out, and I had no issues with it. I'll keep an eye on it now just in case.

I got some really nifty stud removers from the big box hardware store though - they are like outside easy outs, and they worked awesome. The stud would even be reusable after removal if needed. Much better and easier than using vice grips or double-nutting the stud.

With the studs in, the shock body would not clear the inner fender - but maybe I just don't know the trick of it. I have seen many cars where the DPO hacked at the inner fender above the shocks, so it seems to be a common complaint.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Del x2

If you can get the parts blasted then the POR-15 will be virtually permanent.
N McGurk

AJ-
Can't figure this shock stud thing out at all. I worked in a very busy shop in the 60s and we changed MGA shocks all the time, with no problem. Certainly didn't take studs out, I hate that kind of design failure so much I'd certainly recall it. Also hand built MGAs in the 70s, and do recall putting studs back in where they were missing.

FRM
FR Millmore

Stupid studs.... My car has oversize studs for the right front shock mount, where the originals pulled out, and caused my father to depart the roadway and loop into the adjacent parking lot. Repaired on site by drilling out and re-tapping for the next size up.
Del Rawlins

http://www.mgexperience.net/archive/problem_removing_front_lever_shock_on_1962_MGA/1274169


See this link. I am not alone in this.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

My wheel arch is bent all to $#!+ where the shock came off, and was subsequently repaired by my dad and grandpa. It is bent in such a way that at least some of it had to be intentionally done, in order to get the shock back in place.
Del Rawlins

Colin, check out Por-15 (available in USA and Australia). Did my chassis in it and it is as tough as armour plating. You can get a whole range of finihes
regards
Mark
Mark Mathiesen

I think I've mentioned this before, but I have found it beneficial to use the silver POR-15 on chassis parts that will be black. It aids in knowing that you've gotten good coverage with your topcoat.
Del Rawlins

This thread was discussed between 01/05/2012 and 06/05/2012

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