MG-Cars.info

Welcome to our Site for MG, Triumph and Austin-Healey Car Information.

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - Radiator Recoring Charges

Well, it's happened...the original radiator has sprung enough leaks that the radiator shop's opinion is that it can no longer be reliably repaired. They recommend recoring. this is where my question starts...They quoted us approx $550 USD to recore. Is this in line with what others have paid recently? Moss wants $209 USD for a repro radiator. Why would I care? This is for a driver-level MGA, not a show piece. Have others had good luck with the repro radiator?

Please advise...


Rick
rpb bunch

Rick,

There is some info and comments about Moss radiators on Barney's site.

See here

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_115.htm

Fran
F Valenzano

For concours show you need to have it re-cored using an original type cell core.
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_100.htm
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_100.htm
The cell core is very expensive, but (not) by coincidence may also help it cool better.

Otherwise a common re-core job at a local radiator shop is likely to result in something very close to the Moss repro unit with VT core, except retaining original tanks for "better" (but not entirely original) appearance.

I have been running a re-core unit with high density VT core, lots of fins and tubes close together. It has some cooling problems at high road speed, apparently not enough air flow through the core, so it is possible to over do the high density thing.
Barney Gaylord

Rick,

$550 seems a bit steep. I had mine recored with a vertical core in 2007 for $270.

If you have a local shop do the work be sure to take the car to the shop. For my first go at the recore I just hauled the radiator to the shop. After reinstalling the radiator I found that the new core was too tall so the hood would not shut. Had to take the car and radiator back for rework.

Cooling is ok, similar issues as everyone else.

John
jjb Backman

I am now looking at the choice between buying aftermarket from Moss, or pressure testing and installing a '67 MGB radiator that came with a collection of misc parts when I bought the MGA. Anyone have experience with swapping out for the MGB radiator? Any "gotcha's" that I should consider?
rpb bunch

rpb, read what the guru has to say on the subject...

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_205.htm
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/cooling/cool_205a.htm
Andy Bounsall

Ah...should've known to check there first...

So, since I have the free MGB radiator, a welder, some time, and little spare cash, it looks like I will do a mod on the MGB radiator flanges to mount it in the MGA. Perhaps when this 'college thing' is completed with our boys, I can retrofit the proper radiator again.


Thanks, to all...
rpb bunch

Just installed the repo from Moss. Looks nice. Had the over flow tube. However, I had to elongate (sic) the holes on the flanges on the car to get all six bolts to line up. Ran the car on both a country lane and the interstate. No improvement on cooling, car ran at around 190. In all fairness the heat index here is over 100 degrees today so that has some bearing. My radiaor gave out on the way to a car show and I had to use Bar's stop leak to make it back home. Took the old radiator and they wanted $300 to recore.
Mike Razor

Ran the car today with the repo radiator and it runs hotter than the orginal radiator. Not a lot hotter, about 15 degrees or so.
Mike Razor

I have similar experience when having a re-core done locally. The modern VT style core seems to make it run warmer. Medium density or high density core doesn't seem to make much difference. I'm pretty sure the original cell core was better, and I'd like to try it again some day.
Barney Gaylord

The MGB radiator that I was going to use for the summer did not pass pressure test. I am going with the aftermarket approach.

I just received the repro radiator and accessories from Moss. I will report on the install/performance over the next couple of days. This unit is from China, as marked on the product packaging. I also ordered new hoses, clamps, petcock, and mounting isolator pads.

For the record, my MG has usually run at about 210, per the current gauge (withthe previous radiator). I run with 50/50 glycol water mix, and a bottle of WaterWetter additive. I run a 7psi radiator cap, and have a fan shroud installed.

All of the above piece parts were still less expensive than a local recore, although to be fair, the local recore quote of $550 was for a cell core not a vertical tube core.

If anyone has a need for the original radiator body (good tank, base) to recore for their own needs, let me know.

rpb bunch

Although I have never had overheating problems, I can contribute to the debate a little here

My experience of the Moss units was very very poor. They looked and fit just fine, but kept springing leaks. the cooling was OK, just the build quality sucked. All the leaks appeared at the button soldered at the front of the upper tank.

The other issue was that the neck on the last unit was cracked at the seam where the two halves of the neck were pressed, and the neck was not round - this prevented the unit from sealing at the cap. That one went straight back for the final refund.

Conclusion: check carefully and keep hold of the receipt in the case of a warranty claim.

I then had my original unit recored. This cost about $100 US more than buying the Moss unit (about $350 all in, and I thought was very reasonable). I was offered a high performance core, but given that I have never had overheating issues, I went with a standard vertical core like the original. Verdict - works just fine.

I strongly suspect that the general cause of overheating is that the engines are full of calcium deposits from hard water, or full of rust sludge that has caked into the coolling passages. There may be a way of dissolving this without a full hot tank of a bare block, but I have always requested that engine rebuilds are hot tanked, and have never had an issue with heat as a result - in fact I have always had a problem with running too cool, even when fitted with a high temp thermostat to keep the rad out of play as long as possible.

dominic clancy

RPB:

Where are you in Massachusetts? I can recommend a radiator shop in North Attleboro that recored my original MGA radiator several years ago with a made-in-USA cell core for under $300.00. They did a great job and the rad cools perfectly.

M.D.
'57 Coupe
M. D.

I'm in Reading... I ordered, received, and installed a Moss replacement. So far, so good, I must say. Everything is liquid-tight, and cooling is 3-5 degrees lower from what I can tell after only about 100 miles. Thanks for the offer. I still have the original radiator if someone needs one for recoring.
rpb bunch

Hi rpb,
I may be interested in the original radiator tanks, both top & bottom. Would you be able to tell me what would be the total cost for shipping to Malta (Europe). You can discard the old core and just send the tanks. You can email me here: fcamill@hotmail.com.

Frank
F Camilleri

This thread was discussed between 22/07/2010 and 21/08/2010

MG MGA index

This thread is from the archives. Join the live MG MGA BBS now