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MG MGA - Rear brake drums with wire wheels

This is an embarrassing post. But I'm going to put it out there for your mockery and amusement. Owning the car has been a great learning experience for me, and I would rather ask and look stupid than not ask and be even more stupid!
First, although I have owned my car since 2009, I realised that I have never checked the condition of the rear brake shoes. I only do a low mileage but I know that's simply no excuse.
Second, I have wire wheels. When I took the rear wheel off to take a look behind the drums, I realised a previous owner must have used a wire wheel conversion kit. I have removed drums for other cars many times of course, but this looks very different. Do I need to remove the entire new hub assembly?
Seems like a lot of work every time to check the shoes.
And if so, does anyone know the torque setting on replacing them?

Many thanks, Graham
Graham V

WW adapters attach to the original DW wheel studs (cut shorter to clear the WW hub). Figure 60-62.5 lb-ft torque (but up to 75 lb-ft is okay).
Barney Gaylord

Thanks very much Barney. I get it - after removing the wire wheel, its just like taking off a "standard" wheel from the studs.
Very helpful - thanks
Graham
Graham V

When you are doing this, just keep and eye on leaks from the half-shaft seals. Everything is held tight by the four big nuts but once they are undone there is only one small screw keeping the end of the halfshaft against the hub. A leak there will more than likely ruin your brake shoes.
Graeme Williams

His WW adapters are over brake drums for a DW car. Those have two FH screws securing the brake drums. When drums are removed there is one FH screw securing the half shaft to the bearing hub. The drum has a third hole. If assembled in the proper orientation that third hole lines up with the FH screw in the halfshaft. Install halfshaft with seals, tighten the single FH screw. Then install brake drum, tighten the two FH screws. Then reach through the third hole to re-tighten the FH screw in the halfshaft flange. This should keep it secure next time the drum is removed.
Barney Gaylord

Thanks - thats useful to know. I havent taken the adapters or drums off as yet, but its helpul to know what to expect when I do.
You will see from the attached picture that no screws are visible but I assume they are behind the adapter.

Funny as I've never been nervous about taking a wheel off, but find I am at removing the adpater. I keep telling myself there is no difference.
Graham

Graham V

For anyone contemplating the use of Triumph adaptors, they should know that they either have to saw off some of the wheel stud (as I expect has happened with Graham's car) or use a thin spacer between the drum (or disc hub) and adaptor so the stock studs don't bottom out on the wheel instead of allowing the wire wheel to seat as intended.

Another thing to note - the Triumph and MGA use the same diameter wheel studs - 7/16", but if you do this conversion on an MGB, which uses 1/2" studs, you'd have to replace the studs in order to use the special Triumph 'acorn' nuts that clear the wheel.

Bill Spohn

This thread was discussed between 08/05/2016 and 19/05/2016

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