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MG MGA - Rear seal issue

Hey all, I finally managed to get the rear axle hub off. I need to replace the seal. To my dismay, I have found the now leaking seal had been glued in. I have tried lacquer thinner and acetone to dissolve the glue to no avail.

I am afraid that scraping the rubber off will damage the surface of the hub, requiring glue again. Has anyone seen/solved this before? As an aside, the old seal used a rubber "O" ring instead of the "spring" the new one has. Thanks, Tom
Thomas McNamara

Thomas, where was the glue exactly? Is it on the seal area of the casing?
Art Pearse

I am confused if he is talking about the halfshaft seal or the hub bearing seal?
I suspect it is the halfshaft seal and am therefore wondering about the new seal being a spring??
Bob Turbo Midget England

<< I finally managed to get the rear axle hub off>>

It sounds like the hub seal to me.
Dave O'Neill2

Yes, sounds like half shaft with paper gasket and o-ring. Often DPO's use sealer (and in this case, glue) to get a good seal. Often to no avail as it is the hub bearing seal that is leaking due to pitted or damaged axle casing surface. Or a brake cylinder ;-)

In which case Thomas, I would try scraping carefully with a new flat (Stanley in UK) blade. If the blade is damaged it can scratch easily, but otherwise you should be ok on the flat surface. I assume the o-ring groove is full of hardened glue and of course it all needs to come out. For that you will need to find another suitable tool, maybe a small thin chisel. I guess it's a patience thing, but you should be able to clean it up without damage.

Pictures would be good in a case like this!
N McGurk

Sometimes a hot air gun will soften old glue.
Art Pearse

Hey all, Thanks for the input. I am talking about the hub bearing seal. It is glued to the hub along its outside perimeter.

In the replacement seal, there is a small "spring" that keeps tension on the inner perimeter that contacts the axle. (That appears to be okay). It is that "spring" that was substituted with an "O" ring in the currently installed unit.

The hot gun idea seems like a good idea, I will heat it tonight. More to follow. Tom

Thomas McNamara

3M make an Adhesive Remover that will remove just about any glue residue that I've ever come across. That includes weatherstrip adhesive that's gone hard, don't breathe it in unless you really want to change your perspective on the world though!
A M Leyva

Acetone is good also
Art Pearse

Thomas,
Can you cut through the seal with a hacksaw blade and then collapse it in?
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Hey all, the heat thing worked good. When my wife's hair dryer was not enough I put a propane torch to it. Stunk a bit bit, a little smoke and out she came.

After some scrubbing with "000" steel wool, the hub interior looks pretty good. There are a few scratches that I can catch with my finger nail, but not very deep.

Two more questions;
1. Should I put a dressing in the hub to help the seal seal? (NO GLUE)!
2. Should I put grease or some other lube on the axle where the hub spins?

As ever, THANKS, (Oh yeah, GO GIANTS).

Tom
Thomas McNamara

You can use a little RTV to fill scratches in the bore, maybe let it dry before you install the new seal. Dab a little grease or oil on the seal surface of the axle housing. It will get lots of gear oil as soon as it starts to roll.

If there is a buff mark on the axle housing where the seal spins, seriously consider installing a Speedi-Sleeve. These things can leak with the smallest wear mark on the housing, and nearly all of the 50 year old housings need a Speedi-Sleeve.

SKF/Chicago Rawhide Speedi-Sleeve 99193
Federal Mogul, National Redi-Sleeve 99193

Prices can vary considerably at local bearing supply and on the internet.

$11.70 -- (Too good to be true?)
http://www.jeepersden.com/yms99193-redi-sleeve-for-gm-8-5-9-5-8-2-bop-yokes/

$21.79
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=13&partnum=99193&a=FR13-99193-784095

$22.78
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EPR7GQ/ref=asc_df_B000EPR7GQ1877989?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextagus0015776-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B000EPR7GQ

$32.89
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Redi-Sleeve-National_3271765-P
Barney Gaylord

I ordered the speedi sleeves from Moss, and could not get them to go onto the hub carriers no matter what I tried. The installation tool is too short, for one thing. I tried heating it up but that didn't work either. These things are definitely an interference fit.

I ended up damaging the one for the passenger side, and I have the one for the driver's side on the bench still wondering if it's the right size.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

Jim, they are tight. You have to keet them square as you put them on. I think I used grease and a tool made from some ABS pipe. I used Chicago Rawhide. Also used some emery to remove any high spots on the case.
Art Pearse

They are very tight indeed, but also very thin wall (0.010" thick), so they stretch when installed and stay put. For Speedi-Sleeve installation I use a piston ring compressor squeezed down to just fit over the OD of the sleeve. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra101.htm
I never have any problem with this method, goes right on. Other people may find a piece of PVC pipe at the local hardware store the right size for a sleeve driver. For sure you cannot install it without a tubular driver tool. Hammer and punch will never work with this thin material.
Barney Gaylord

I need to get one more to replace the one I ruined...will try it again soon. Maybe on the upcoming "transmission workshop day" I can have the other attendees help me attend to this problem.

JIM in NH
AJ Mail

This thread was discussed between 05/02/2012 and 13/02/2012

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