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MG MGA - Two stupid rear axle questions

Driver side rear hub is leaking and needs a change (1957 MGA Coupe / wire wheel). The hub nut has the designation of LH on it. When facing the wheel do I turn the nut clockwise or counterclock wise to UNDO the nut? I have the proper special wrench but WOW it is tight.

Seconly,even though the nut is very tight, with the hub on the car,and the nut tight,I am able to....turn the hub and hold the bearing race from moving with the hub and.....I am able to pull the hub forward 1/8 inch or so without the bearing moving. Can someone explain this.

If the nut is so tight I can't get it off....why is the hub and bearing moving seperately. Gordon
Gordon Harrison

For the LH you need to turn the nut clockwise to remove it.

If I have understood the description of your hub problem correctly, it sound like the hub has worn internally sufficiently for the bearing no longer to be a tight fit and so move inside the hub. You might be able to secure it with loctite or it could be a replacement hub is needed and I don't think new ones are available.

Malcolm
Malcolm Asquith

Gordon, do you mean the outer race is a loose fit in the hub? It should be a gentle press fit. With the half shaft installed, the flange should prevent the bearing from moving axially.
A Pearse

Mr Pearce,
With the hub on the car and the axle bolt tight enough that I am having a hard time to remove it....I am able to hold two of the hub stud bolts and move the hub back and forth without the outer bearing race moving. That is ..the hub is sliding on the outer surface of the bearing. I can them put my finger on the bearing race and turn the hub without the bearing race moving.
Gordon Harrison

This is a common occurrence if the large octagonal bearing retaining nut is left loose. The bearing should be a light press fit in the hub. The hub is worn and needs to be replaced. Alternative repair is to use bearing set adhesive to fill the gap to secure the bearing in the hub.
Barney Gaylord

Would it be possible to shim the hub (IE: Speedi Sleeve) and them press in the bearing? Also are the hubs from a w/w Austin Healey the same as an MGA?
Gordon Harrison

Worn hub bore could be repaired with traditional practice. welding and boring or boring and sleeving. Such work is likely prohibitively expensive, as good used parts are still available.

Same bearing, different part number for the hub, so I suspect it is no-go for the Healey part substitute.
Barney Gaylord

Current update:
Removed the rear hub and obtained another one from a gracious board member. Thanks to the Pearce's. Everything is ready for reassembly but I have one small question. Getting the hub off was not a problem....but I am curious how everyone replaces the hub IE: presses it onto the axle....when the axle is on the car. So far light tapping with a solid rubber hammer has brought the hub and bearing to the edge of the axle, but is there a trick to getting it completely seated.

BTW: A small note ...the wheel studs for a steel wheel hub are longer that the ones used for wire wheels. Don't know if this makes any difference but, I will find out very soon.

Gordon
Gordon Harrison

Use hammer and punch and tap around ane around on the inner race a little at a time. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/universal/ut108.htm
Barney Gaylord

Hi I thought they were quite clever questions for a rear axle all mine does is whine



gordon
g c pugh

I have a piece of thick walled aluminium tube that is machined on the I/D to the diameter of the axle tube, and on the O/D to the size of the outer race. I just slot that into place and thump it a few times with a BFH and it seats quite nicely.
dominic clancy

Final,
I did it the Barney way and everything is fixed. No more leaks,no more dirty brake pads or spoke wheels. I tightened the nut using the same blue socket as Barney...with my wife pushing on the socket,to hold it in place and using a three foot extention pipe to tighten the nut. This time I think I have the nut tight enough. Many thanks to all for the help. Gordon
Gordon Harrison

Gordon,

You will want the longer studs. From my experience, you only will get about half the nut thickness on the short studs of a wire wheel hub. (That said, I drove one like that for years and never lost a wheel...)

Ken
k v morton

This thread was discussed between 10/08/2008 and 19/08/2008

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