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MG MGA - windscreen brackets

Got my new, undrilled top brackets for my w/s from Moss. I'm now trying to jig them for drilling. The fit in the top rail is pretty much located by the peg in the hole, so I clamped it in place (after having to file it to get it to slip in the groove!). Now I see that the side member lines up with the bracket arm at the same angle as the mitre (see pic), but to get the corner to line up as well, there has to be a gap between the bracket and side member.
I'm planning on 1) drilling and tapping the 2 holes for the top rail. 2) inserting the 2 top rail screws, 3) packing and clamping the side rail so the corners line up and 4) drilling and tapping the side holes.
I'd appreciate any useful comments, hopefully from someone who has done this!

Art Pearse

The gap at the side leg of the top corner bracket is as original. While I was test fitting everything in the frame without the glass, I installed a packing piece to fill that gap. For final assembly with the glass I left out the packing piece, and all is well.

For the Moss brackets that are too wide, you may find also find the top post is at the wrong angle. I think these parts have not been changed since my first experience with them in 1986. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/windscrn/wt_102.htm
Barney Gaylord

Barney, the angles on the new bracket posts match my old ones.
Art Pearse

Well, I got one bracket drilled and tapped as above. Had to put 93 thou of packing in to get the corners to line up. I used 10-32 as I'm pretty sure thats what the Moss screw kit is, anyway they fit a test hole OK.
The assembled corner aligns Ok with the glass (phew!) but the screws, which are supposed to be 5/16 long, need to be at least 3/8 b/c of this gap.
I used a 3/16 drill just to mark the centres through the frame holes, this being the size of those holes. Then to the drill press for the drilling.
Wish me luck with the rest!
Art Pearse

The round top posts with the flat side in back should be perpendicular to the top rail and parallel to each other. If the top posts are canted inward, not parallel, then it is wrong. If the old posts are the same way, they may be replacement parts from the mid 1980's (or possibly earlier). The bad parts have been around that long.
Barney Gaylord

Barney, unfortunately the new brackets (plus the new drilled brackets I returned) are the same as my "originals" plus an extra set I inherited, in that the pegs are not square to the top rail. However, the previous set did go in the hood top rail OK, and Im hoping these will also.
If not, then I will be trying to source some "square", undrilled brackets, but I'm not sure who would be the supplier.
The ones I'm working on are chromed brass. Is there any chance of being able to bend the pegs a wee bit more upright, even 1/32" ?
I'll know this afternoon if they fit OK.
Art Pearse

Well, the pegs fit in the holes OK, so although it would be nice to have them parallel, I'm gonna live with it as it is at least functional.
Art Pearse

Clarke's Spares sells the bracket with the correct angle and they fit well. Unfortunately, the threads are different than original - I believe it's documented on Barney's site.
Larry Wheeler

Yeah, its a mixed batch. The Clarke spares brackets with upright pins have the holes pre-drilled and tapped. They were a perfect fit to my August 1957 vintage windscreen frame (when I bought them around turn of the century). Those parts have formed steel "L" with separate top pin permanently staked in place. While it is not perfectly original, you can't tell the difference in appearance when in assembly, and it is a very strong part.

For at least a few years now Clarke Spares has been supplying the MGA windscreen fastener parts with #10-32-UNF threads (originally 2BA threads). The BA standard screws have smaller head size than SAE or UNF #10-32 screws. Apparently the matching screws supplied by Clarke Spares are very odd specialty parts with the #10-32 thread cut on a 2BA screw blank with the smaller head. I don't know if those special screws are available anywhere else in the world. Be aware that original 2BA screws do not thread well into the #10-32 female threads.
Barney Gaylord

Well, Im using the screws supplied by Moss. they don't say which thread it is. The difference is 31.4 vs 32 TPI plus a slightly different angle. I tapped a test hole in 3/16 MS and tried the Moss screws and the old screws that I saved. could not feel any difference in that depth of thread. Obviously if we were threading for 1/2" or more it would bind at some point.
So I tapped the brackets 10-32. So far I have managed to assemble the whole frame w/o the glass, and it works fine
Today I will try the glass w/o the rubber in the frame, to see how much slack there is around the corners, then I will do the final ass'y. Its a bit annoying about the pegs, but they do enter OK, just touching the edges as the pegs go in, and I've decided to live with it
FWIW, the indexing of the holes in the brackets for drilling was fairly easy and result perfect alignment. Have to be careful when tapping brass to keep a strong pressure until the tap draws itself through.
Art Pearse

You will note that the #10 screw heads stand proud of the metal. They look and feel oversize to the surrounding metal. A disappointment as the original 2BA screws fit flush.
JM Morris

Yes you're right JM, but they seem to cover up OK when installed.
Art Pearse

This thread was discussed between 14/07/2013 and 29/07/2013

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