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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - ? for Larry Embrey & other Ford guys

Larry & others,

I'm currently working on a v8 project with a '74 gt, and I've decided to go the Ford route rather than the rover. I'm still finishing the firewall and steering mods, but I'm starting to look around for my motor. I've read everything I can find on the net regarding this swap but still have a few questions regarding my motor choice.

First, I note that Larry recommends using a late model explorer engine due to a shorter front assembly, true? If so, here are my questions:

1. Did I understand you correctly that the shorter front assembly does interfere with the rack and that it (the rack) has to be moved? Is this not the case if you use a mustang motor with the longer front assembly?

2. Is there any problem involved with using a carb on this motor? For example, will I have to use a different cam? I don't want to do fuel injection.It would be neat but for now I'm following the K.I.S.S. method.

3. What flywheel will I need to use?

4. Can the serpentine belt system be retained to run an alternator and a/c compressor while eliminating the power steering pump?

Sorry for the long post. I've not posted here before, but I've been reading along for years. Thanks for any knowledge that can be shared.

Ryan Reis
Ryan Reis

I've never done a Ford conversion, but I've done more than my share of research on the topic. I'll try to help where I can, but I think Larry is "the man" when it comes to some of your questions

1) See Larry

2) When you go to aluminum aftermarket heads, all the popular intakes will bolt on, and a carb will be happy as can be up there. Just watch your clearances. A suggestion if I may: Everyone buys the Ford GT-40 aluminum heads. If you want some SERIOUS power gains without sacrificing a bunch more money, buy some afr 185 heads. You can pull 455hp out of a naturally aspirated 302 with those heads. That's some serious power! You WANT a different cam. There's a lot of power waiting to be unleashed from a 302 within the cam.

3)Flywheel from a 5 speed manual trans Ford Mustang. 50oz balance if I remember correctly? While you're at it. try to get a ford Motorspot T5 trans with a 2.95:1 first gear... that'll make you happy =)

4) You could probably keep the serpentine belt setup, but it's wide... very wide... I think a regular v-belt would probably be a better way to go. It will give you more clearance up front for things like... the radiator...

Good luck!
Justin
Justin

Lets see here...

1) The balancer/pulley does not interfere with the rack it was/is the crank sensor ring on the balancer that interferes. Also not, I was.am fitting EFI into the car, so I had hieght and hood isues I was fighting with which made me move the rack. Turns out now I may not have had to if I had gone 94/95 GT Distributor Ignition.

NOTE NOTE NOTE!!: For tyhose thinking about EFI - The 94/95 Mustang GT/Cobra use a SHORTER DISTRIBUTOR!! As much as 1/2" shorter due to moving if the TFI module. To use this you will need the 94/95 Mustang wiring harness, computer, distributor and Ignition box. Also of worth is the fan control module which will automatically controll cooling fans!! This looks like it would have fit in my car without modifications with the motor in it's original location.

2) The only thing with cam changes is to make sure you maintain the correct firing order and use that with your distributor. Ford changed the order in the early 80's. I THINK they went roller cam at the same time, so buying the correct "type" of cam for your motor may keep you out of trouble. Carb, EFI, etc, itis all good. Those AFR heads are the big dog right now for street cars, nice choice Justin!! (good luck getting the power down though, Mine was a beast with a mere 280hp at the crank.

3) Justin has it right, post 95 T5's I think are all WC which is stronger internals. be aware of 94/95 T5's as they set 3/4" farther back from the motor due to the new chassis those years. Not sure how that will affter trans mounting.

If you go Explorer nose, you HAVE to stay serpentine, the water pump is a unique item and runs reverse rotation. The PS pump runs up top left side of motor and I cut that part of the bracket off mine. I then had a guy at work make a new idler pulley with groves in it to hold the belt and give the water pump a bit of belt wrap. I was also able to use the stock explorer alt bracket with tensionser pulley and Alt on the right side, which was very nice!!

Anything else just ask!! I am in the middle of TRYING to modernize my site. it si VERY slow, but the old HTML site is still operational and linked off the main page.
Larry Embrey

Thanks for the response everyone. Also to Dan for the post under another topic. This is a "long term" project controlled by budget, which I'm sure most of you can understand. Right now the car is a bare shell on its side getting the bottom stripped and coated. Lots of surface rust from a Nebraska life. I'd like to get my engine so I can collect parts gradually over the next year or so.

One follow-up: Dan said that the explorer gt-40p heads require a different header. My plan is to use the iron heads at first, get everything working, and add aluminum heads as $$ allow. If I make my headers to fit the explorer heads... they won't work on the aluminum heads? I don't want to weld up two sets of headers!!

Thanks again, it's nice "talking" to people who daydream about the same stuff as me!

Ryan
Ryan Reis

Ryan
I did my 5.0L coversion last winter.
My route was easier because I started with a rubber bumper car giving more room and wider trans tunnel.
That said --the iron heads will be a factor with the extra weight up front so handling will be adversely affected. I am using the Edelbrock Alum heads 60379 a Speed Pro cam and a 4 bbl carb and all fits under bonnet with no bulges --its about 300 hp --all I need cause Im an old fart.My T5 is a WC from an 86 Mustang and am using D &Ds posi GM rear end.
I am using a 65 Mustang 4 core rad -with 3 cooling fans -1 pusher 2 pullers and seems to be runing ok after some adjustments for hot day traffic situations.
The car is lots of fun and I put about 5k miles on it last season should do well over double that this year.
Good luck and if I can help in any way let me know--there is a wealth of info on here .
Gil
Gil Price

The debate is still out on the GT40"P" heads and headers. MOST stock headers will not fit on the P heads due to spark plug placement. That said I hear guys all the time claiming they got them to work. The P heads are rumored to breath better, but I have yet to see anything conclusive. It will depend on how you build your headers. if they will fit both. Maybe if you can get a crap set of stock 289-5.0 heads or a single cracked head forma machine shop you can cross check on the bench as you build?
Larry Embrey

This thread was discussed between 29/01/2004 and 30/01/2004

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