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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - AN hose end fitting question ... how tight?

I am switching over my BSP oil lines, one of which had developed a small leak near the end fitting, to 10AN braided hose and fittings. Kinda costly, but I'm told it's the Final Solution and they should never bother anyone again.

Anyhow, but my question is, how tightly should they be installed? The hose-ends I bought -- never seen them before so I have nothing to compare them to -- don't have rubber washers or anything else I can see to seal them. Do they seal by just tightening the alumimun parts together?

As far as the oil pump spacer and the remote filter head, I got some adapters that go from 1/2" NPT female to 10AN male, so that part was easy ... I'm just wondering how tight to honk down on these and whether any special sealing washers are called for. Thanks in advance if you happen to know.
David

Find your local Aeroquip dealer or check the web for the Aeroquip site. They have a booklet which lists their complete line of AN fittings and it also includes instructions on how to assemble these fittings.
Bill Young

Not very tight at all. They sell short aluminum wrenches for this purpose, so that you DON'T over-torque them ... the ends are just aluminum alloy. No washers are used. The mating surfaces are very precisely machined, and you MUST not bonk them -- if, e.g., you by accident drop a steel wrench onto a male end -- not difficult if you're me -- you'll render the fitting leak-prone. You should be careful assembling them such that the hose is stuck into the end-fitting all the way. But if you make them up properly (it's not hard), you can put these things together and take them apart hundreds of times, and they will never leak. No race car, aside from some bone-stock vintage classes I suppose, would be seen without 'em. Most aircraft use them as well.

Note that you generally need specific hose for specific fittings -- when you go to assemble them, you'll see why. The best on the market are Aeroquip, Russell and Earl's. They are all very expensive but basically last for the life of the car.
Ted

Tightness all depends on WHICH AN fittings you use. There are Steel and Alum ones. Like said the alum ones are soft, not allot of pressure will be needed.

I work in Hydraulics for heavy equipment. EVERYTHING is AN fittigns, though they are all steel ones. We regularly see pressures in excess of 3000psi. Steel ones you just snug up tight and your done, no really worry about spripping or deforming. The ones we use for in house testing have nick's gouges etc, and as long as they are tight they do not leak, even with 2500psi static hold tests..
Larry Embrey

Would anybody be able to tell me what the thread is for the oil line as it joins up to the oil pressure guage. i too am repalcing the old oil line with SS Braided, but will have to source a fitting for this.

Thanks
Bruce

I couldn't find an adaptor which would fit the original gauge. I made one by using a braze on A/N fitting from my local hydraulic shop which I soldered on to a stub from the original line. The resulting adaptor is about 1" long and takes the A/N fitting on the braided line.
Bill Young

David
I took the old oil line plus fittings into a hydrolic hose company/shop (ENZED).And they sold me a braided stainless line (nylon inside) with the correct fittings on each end. The one that goes on the back of the guage has a flat mating surface & the other end is beveled. These fittings are used in race car industry/recreation.Very pretty anodized aluminium with bearings for easy fiting. They were not cheap though. Fittings plus SSline about $60 Australian dollars. I expect you will have a similiar type of shop/co. locally, go through the yellow pages under "Hydrolic" maybe.
One word of warning, be sure to put some electrical insulating tape over that part of the stainless oil line thats behind the Dash board.
Peter

This thread was discussed between 20/01/2003 and 29/01/2003

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