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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Best Engine conversion for 72 chrome bumper

I just received a 72 chrome bumper that needs to be restored. It has a role cage that has been added in the past so the thought was to make this into a barely legal track car. I am thinking a supercharged ford v6 any ideas of directions where I could find an engine like that or talk to someone who has converted there car to a big engine for racing or something like that. PLease let me know.
I live in Oregon and have access to many ford parts, my inlaws own an orginal shelby GT-350 so parts for ford are easy to come around.
A Zagel

A Zagel

/There are many ways for you to go. I have a mild sounding 302 to go into my 78. It dyno's at 360 at the flywheel. You can stroke the same motor and get around 500. As everyone will tell you the sky is the limmit but the problem is getting it to the ground. If yours is only for the track you can go out but in is tougher. I live in the portland area and have a very good engin man if you would like to speak with hin, drop me an e-mail.
Garret
garret

Search the archives on this board and you will find lots on three basic motors.

BOP/R all aluminium V8, (3.5, 3.9, 4.2L)
GM 60 degree V6 (2.8, 3.1, 3.4L)
and the SBF 302 V8

There are many other conversions out there as well but these three have varying degrees of support for the MGB market.

Personally, I have been involved in quite a number of V6 conversions over the last 6 years and have been selling components for the conversions for most of that. My bias opinion states that this is the best driveline but i am not going to start by making any points for or against any drivelines...

You need to figure out how much power you want and how much you want to spend. IF you know those two basic things along with what sounds good to you, you should be able to find the system that is right for you.

As far as the Ford V6, there used to be a few Ford 2.8L V6 conversions out there but not nearly as many as there are of the GM V6 conversions. GM just makes drivelines that are a bit easier to transfer, find in the salvage yards and get performance parts for.

Other factors in conversions- weight, cooling, handling, braking, gearbox ratios, rear axle and a few other items to consider.


-BMC.
BMC Brian McCullough

When sourcing an engine/transmission for a swap I recommend finding a complete car if possible. There are usually a lot of small parts that will be needed and can really drive up the cost of a conversion which are already on the donor car. This is especially true if you are using a modern electronically controlled engine. With luck you can find a 'driver' which will enable you to check the condition of the drive train also. Unless you are really familiar with modern electronically controled engines I'd recommend trying to use an engine type that was in production prior to the electronics age. That way earlier non-computer components from the early years, such as distributors and carbs, can be installed without having to deal with the computers.
Bill Young

Your first task is to consult the rulebook to see what class you would be racing in. No sense in building a car that is not competitive because some aspect bumps you up into a cllass with highly refined racing machines. I suspect a supercharger would be one such aspect, but check the book. Then it will be much easier to make a choice based on your pocketbook. If money is a factor,(always, yes?) then consider a class that will not require too many suspension upgrades to be competitive. I do not know how the engine displacement factors into classification but expect that as the displacement goes up the costs of other upgrades needed to be competitive also go up but that's just a guess.

All other things being equal I would expect the SBF swap to give the most bang for the buck, *except* that if you really want to do it right you should buy Ted's front suspension for the car and that runs the cost up. A rear upgrade to match doesn't have to be tremendously expensive, but can be, depending on your goals, and this pretty well defines the upper end of the spectrum.

At the other end, a 60* chevy V6 is simple, inexpensive, and a treat to drive. Retaining all the original qualities of the car but doubling the power, still it has none of the white knuckle inducing tendencies of the higher powered conversions and needs no driveline modifications. Don't get me wrong, I love the power of my blown Olds 215 but I would never consider letting my wife or son drive it, and a simple trip to the hardware store in it can really get the blood rushing and the hands shaking. It's just waay too easy to drive very quickly and very fast and even driven conservatively the beast is always there just below the surface.

So for a *FUN* car, the V6 is probably the best bet. For a well supported and easy swap with probably the highest retained retail value the BOP/R is the clear choice, and for power the SBF. But check the rulebook first.

Jim

Jim Blackwood

Hey Jim,
I am really considering the Megasquirt set up as we spoke of it before. I believe I can offer it and compete with my own GM version. I missed seeing you at the Cinn. show. I was hoping to listen to your comments about what I was wanting to do with it.

The newest 60V6 3.5 and 3.9 can be added to the list. They can also be easily turbo charged. The base HP for the 3.5 is over 225 when installed with conversion parts. My guess it will be over 300 HP with a turbo with low, safe boost. The 3.9 is still under scrutiny here but has 240 HP in stock form. My guess it would produce well into the 350 HP range with a proper turbo set up and a program to run the cam phaser. GM is also considering a 4.0 liter 60V6 push rod engine based on the same block as the present engines. I think they might be considering completely dropping the 3.8 in all respects since they were able to produce the cam phasing unit for the 60V6. The stroke and bore would be a bit larger then the 3.8 and they are going to use a steel block. The engine would be lighter then the 3.8 Buick. This is the latest scuttlebutt from Detroit. We will see.

Dann BCC
Dann Wade

All good news Dann. I really feel that sizewise the 60*V6 is a better fit for the car and leaves more room to deal with other underhood issues such as cooling, etc. I was looking for you at the show, had my brother with me and we are doing a MS conversion on his car. But he had to get home for family reasons so we left early. I should probably pay you a visit sometime though. I'm going to the Springfield swap meet next month and could possibly stop by friday afternoon on the 8th if I had directions.

Jim
Jim Blackwood

yes, i agree with Jim on his statement above regarding the conversion," the check book rules!" i know the words are reversed, but the truth is evident. HP cost money and the EFI Ford 5.0 is definite HP. Its not easy or cheap, but boy is it fun!. SAFTEY FAST!

BTY, for a "driver", probably the GM V6 is least problematic and least expensive for the HP buck.
kelly stevenson

Jim, Come on up, we would be glad to see you. Be sure to call us at 937 859 7881 if you can or can't make it on the 8th.

See ya,
Dann


Take I-75 N toward DAYTON.

Take EXIT 47 toward MORAINE / KETTERING. This is also called S DIXIE HWY.

Merge onto S DIXIE HWY. and stay in the far left turn lane as you the approach the traffic light.

You will see a Sunoco station on your right and a Honda-Suzuki dealer far off on your left. This is where SPRINGBORO PIKE, S DIXIE HWY and KETTERING BLVD. come together in a large intersection.

Make a hard switch back left U-TURN at this light. You will be going back south again. This is where
S DIXIE HWY becomes E CENTRAL AVE. Stay in the farthest right lane as you approach West Carrollton. 0.7 miles Map

Turn RIGHT onto MARINA DR.( Veterans Way)at the far end of the ramp. This is another hard switchback. Go about .2 miles

We are in the beige building with the black dormer. We are on the river edge.

End at 5641 Marina Dr.
Dann Wade

@ A. Zagel

It is allways a bit tricky to transform power to performance, and that's the point with the MG B.
Although my V8 (Rover 3.5) only reads 190 Bhp at the wheels, I allways find it difficult to speed in exess of 130 Mph, altough more would be possible.
A friend has put a 4.6 into his B and became very nervous at 150 Mph.
You must not forgett, we are talking upon a car develoed from the 68 HP MG A and most B's did not even have 90 HP. So far the demand of roadholding...
The works V8 shared allmost the same setup and was only given thicker rotors at the front.

We do not have a speed limit here, so you can try it until becoming afraigt and for normal drivers a B V8 with a Buick 215 is most often beyond their limits allredy.
Curing this will cost you a fortune, not for the engine and gearbox but for the rest of the car!

Simply think about the MG Abingdon slogan
--> Safety Fast ! <--
and make your decission then.

Good luck and stay alife!

Ralph
Ralph

All great comments, I have compromised with my wife and she is going to get to choose the exterior color and interior mods. So the engine is up to me along with al the rest of the stuff. right now we have a spare 302 sitting in the shop that needs some work. It came out of a 68 mustang shelby gt350. I am going to a meet at Portland International Raceway on Labor day weekend (USA) and from what I understand they will have a number of different engine classes so I will get to see a number of different setups. Keep this thread going I really enjoy all the ideas like safety fast.

Cheers,

Adam
A Zagel

A Zagel,

I'm in the middle of my 302 swap. Shoot me an email if you're interested. I can't help with what you can/can't do for various racing classes, but I have a lot of notes & pics on engine placement, info on which T5's have which gears, rear ends, brakes, etc.

Rob
x Ficalora

"It came out of a 68 mustang shelby gt350"

It needs to go back in the Shelby!
Carl Floyd

The shelby has a brand new 302 with 450hp and a paxton super charger on it. They haven't put it on the dyno yet but will shortly. Thanks for all the information I am going to be taking the car a part this weekend to see what I am up against with regards to the engine conversion.
A Zagel

You still should save it to put back in, someday. A numbers matching Shelby GT350 is worth a lot of $$$.
Carl Floyd

This thread was discussed between 12/08/2006 and 18/08/2006

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