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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - guide price required please

I am not a member of any MG club and my knowledge of MGs is scant so I am looking for assistance.
Specifically I am seeking a guide price so I can make an offer on an MGB GT V8. I believe it is c1970s but not sure? Generally in good condition, it was serviced to working order but has laid idle in a garage for the past 5 years!!!
I don't know if this is enough info to get a price to make an offer but would welcome advice and further conversation.
Thanks
Barnaby
Barnaby

You will get lots of advice here but if you have a professional survey you will also get restitution if something then goes wrong (or comes to light).

Allow £3k for a rustfree, straight body, another £1000 if the paintwork is bright and well applied, £300 for a really clean interior with good leather, £1200 for a well sorted running machine/service history/<110M/refitted gearbox/new clutch -

Be prepared to spend/offer more for the following:
re-wiring (350) Starter motor (400) stainless exhaust (250) stainless tank (200) electronic ignition/ignition leads (200) new brake lines (150) new clutch hydraulics (150). These are parts and labour should you have to do it and will give you a reliable car but still leave you with the suspension to sort yourself.

Bear in mind that most of the factory cars are worn out, they were not well looked after when they were in use and most need a major refit - every 'stone you turn over will reveal a can of worms'.

You might Look at one of the MG mags - there are plenty of V8s to view - force yourself to look at a number and then check out the owners garage.

In short they are worth between 1500 and 12000. They will cost you money as well as time to sort.

Good luck
Roger

Barnaby
please don't buy this car without some prior knowledge or expert help or you will become one of those people who come down to our club AFTER buying the car looking for an opinion when it's too late. There are lots of cars for sale out there-even a few V8s- and with the current down turn in car prices you can afford to be choosy.
If you are in the North London area-come down to a meeting at the North London MG club where at least you will get some idea of what to look for when buying a car(I'm the tech sec). E-mail me offline if you like.

Regards

John Bourke
John Bourke

Barnaby,
no-one's yet mentioned the difference in perceived value between original factory cars (only c. 7000 built) and the myriad conversions done since, some of which border on the nasty (some, like John's, border on the super-car too, but if you can't tell the difference you definitely need someone along with you).. As it's a GT I'd guess it's probably factory (most converters start with a soft-top B). Any MG club person will tell you the chassis numbers to look for on the genuine ones. I disagree with Roger's "Bear in mind that most of the factory cars are worn out, they were not well looked after when they were in use" - actually as they were the most expensive MG sold at the time they frequently went to the better-heeled owners, many of whom already had other MGs. Many of these cars have had only 2 or 3 owners, typically one owner for 15 years or more, and have generally been well looked after with a ridiculously low mileage for their age. However it needs to be said that no car likes to be laid up for 5 years and personally I would not consider it unless (a) it runs and (b) it has an MOT or a detailed failure sheet so you know what you are in for.
HTH
David Smith

I agree with what everyone has said to date, except the number of "factory" V8s.

I don't have my papers at hand but there were from memory 2,591 factory cars.

In so far as the year is concerned there were a handful built in 1972, with the majority being built in 1973/74 - the last cars being built in 1976. The later cars were of course Rubber rather than Chrome bumpered.

C/B cars command a premium, and a Factory car is worth more than a similar conversion.

Bear in mind that some insurers load conversions by as much as 50% over factory cars.

I have a 1973 C/B factory car which I have owned from new, and am driving today - well sorted they are superb.

A final point contact the V8 Registrar Victor Smith, and talk to him, he may know of good cars for sale.

Safety Fast

Nigel
Nigel Steward

Apologies, of course it was c. 2500 factory V8s - my befuddled mind was thinking of my other love - Montego Turbos. (it WAS late...)
David Smith

Barnaby,

Unless you are really keen on getting your hands dirty, in my opinion, it is better value for money to pay the extra for a well sorted loved and driven car.

The Firebond guide
Condition 1 7750
Condition 2 4750
Condition 3 2500

The car in question is a bit early for a Factory car but may be a Costello conversion which if genuine may add to its value.

All the above advice is very sound, especially viewing a number of cars and taking expert advice.

Also decide on what you want from the car, since if you are looking to modify it any way this can devalue a factory car, this also applies to a Costello.

Paul
Paul

Barnaby,
There is a big difference in Factory car prices between the UK and North America, simply because there are only a handfull of genuine Factory GT V-8s over here (about 15 at last count). I will admit that my car was sold to a previous owner at auction in Texas in 1990 for ~19,000US$. That was of course during the classic car "feeding frenzy" of the early 90s, and I was able to pick it up in 1995 for somewhat less. It was in terrible shape (which I knew), but looked good from 5 feet away. I have since done a total restoration on the car, and it is about ready to emerge from its garage cocoon for the first time in 4 years. I could never get back what I have spent on the car, but that's not the point.

I think a clarification is needed for the previous statement that "the cars were not well looked after". I think a more accurate description is "benign neglect". Most folks who owned them used them as daily drivers, not as hobby or "weekend" cars like here in the States. I believe in many cases the cars were driven hard and have naturally succumbed to the rust, wear and tear of well-used cars in the British climate. It is just such an example that was imported to the States in 1986 and was gussied up for the auction in 1990.

Here are some things to look for to verify if the car is a genuine Factory GT V-8:

The VIN number begins with GD2D-1, not GHD4 or GHD5. The commission number begins with G75. The VIN and commission number plates are easily replaced, and should be worn and corroded to match the age of the car.

The engine number should begin with "4860", and the number is stamped on a flat boss on the LH side, just forward of the bell housing. The original Rover engine number boss between cylinders 3 and 5 on the LH side will have been partially ground off to allow clearance for the exhaust manifolds. You can usually find the compression ration of 8.25:1 stamped on the remnants of this boss.

There is a "dent" in the upper inner edge of the RH frame box section, about 2-3 inches behind the radiator. This is to provide clearance for the oil pressure line that goes from the oil pump head to the oil filter (which should be mounted up high on a boss behind the radiator). David Smith's car has this as well - we looked for it in London in 1997 when I was visiting. Cheers, David!

Chrome bumper Factory V-8s have a unique steering column, with two brackets holding the column to the firewall and the square brace behind the dash. There is no 3-bolt flange at the base of the column where it goes through the firewall, just a unique cone-shaped fairing in the firewall to accept the lower end of the column. Rubber bumper V-8s have the standard later column with the 3-bolt flange at the firewall.

Hope this helps,
Paul Kile

Paul Kile

This thread was discussed between 17/04/2001 and 18/04/2001

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