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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Handling kit

Im fitting a Hopkinson handling kit plus anti roll bars,
I have been advised not to fit the rear anti roll bar as it tightens up the rear end too much.
Also do you need anti tramp bars, again conflicting advice.
V8 axle fitted with competition leaf springs, spax shocks.
nevr

Nevr, if you don't use some sort of rear bar you may find that the 7/8" bar alone on the front makes the car push pretty noticeably around corners. I found that the best setup (CB GT) is to keep the rear bar on the car but to back off the nuts holding the end links in place to as loose a setting as possible -- the bushings should just be touching, and not compressed or pre-loaded at all.

With the Hopkinson rear bar and the composite springs (mine are exactly 140#/inch), Spax in the rear, and running a 3.07 limited slip diff behind a Rover 4.6 and an SD1 box, there seems to be no need for anti-tramp bars; haven't had the car out much since putting this rig together though. I would prefer not to install them if possible as in my opinion they do have a negative impact on the car's ride qualities.
Niles

I agree, leave the rear end as soft and compliant as possible. I tried anti tramp bars and panhard rod for location as found that it made the car very twitchy - especially over long undulations in the road. It would also swap ends a bit too readily for road use!

I put the rear end back to standard except for telescopic shocks set at their softest. I don't suffer from axle tramp even with 160 bhp at the rear wheels.
Chris Betson

There is so much being said about the tramp. bars, rear springs & shocks. This is what I am running on my 3 V-8. One R.B. G.T., one chrome 74 G.T. & one 72 roadster. I run fiberglass rear leaf springs in all 3 cars. The 74 G.T. has the tube type shocks & the other 2 have the stock shocks. I run the old M.G. international handling kit that is 1 inch ft. bar & 7/8 rear. What I have used for my tramp bars (I call tork arms) are the 2 links that are used on a TR-7 to keep the rear & body centered. The reason I use this rod with the H.D. rubber bush at each end is to help with the wheel hop & the spring wrap! I am know to run from N.H. to Fla. to Ka. with a 3,000 lbs of trailer behind my M.G.to M.G. car shows & with working on the M.G.s for 31 years I have seen the rear leaf springs break. If a rear leaf broke on a V-8 with hard power, you will be into oncomming trafic or the ditch! I was told by Tim Mountjoy (road racer E pro. B) to bull the batt. lid off & get someone to drive the B & look at how much the rear diff. moves, I did & it moved SO much that I put in the tork arms A.S.A.P. What else I got was a car that came out of the start MUCH MUCH faster! With the way I welded it all together, when I rool in the power I pick up ALL the rear body weight. My roadsterrr has a 4.9 L. with a G.M.-6 speed & it will go out of the hole, real good. I take people for a ride in my cars ALL the time & thay can not beleive thay are in a M.G., with the way it rides or the way it goes around a turn. I go to the 1/4 mile track with the other street rods & thay think it is neet to see this M.G. do a 13.5 1/4 mile & NOTHING beats me out of the hole. What I have done is get the wheel to go up & down with a kinda soft spring & get real heavy duty sway bars to stop the body rool.
Glenn Towery

I would not even think of useing the moss tramp rods, for you will get a rough kick out of them. I have over 250,000 miles on one set & 200,000 on another set of my tork. arms and the bushings are still in good shape.
Glenn Towery

nevr,

My understanding is that axle-tramp is not only detrimental to good acceleration but can also break diff casing. I would look to the RV8 as a base line because of the expertise used in developing the car. The RV8 uses LSD and torque control arms. I use anti tramp bars but Glenns solution sounds a very good idea. If running with similar or more power than RV8 then I would consider these features were worth copying. I also use Koni's on softest setting but no anti-roll bar whereas the RV8 has a rear anti-roll bar, but the car has also been lowered and springs uprated. At the end of the day it is personal preference.

Paul
Paul

Would the role bar that is present on the 77 and later roadsters work as a torque arm to counter act rear axle wind up?
James Johanski

The tork arm that I put on ALL of the cars that I have built & a lot that I have helped with have tork arms! We have not hade ONE break! thay are very H.D.. I am sorry but the R V-8 can't go like my roadster. I jump out of the lights so hard, that I am 2 cars in front of them when I go into 2nd gear. (410 poss. rear & T56 6sp.) The 77-80 sway bar set up was out of date in the early days of the B (BANDADE BARS) is what I call them. The rear sway bar could work if all the rubber was taken out & nylon bushings were made up, but then the rear would not flow up & down true like it needs to. I have a 72 year young man that has been into race all his life (drag race, stock cars, boats, motor cycle) & I asked him what I can do to help it out with leaving the lights better & he said to leave it alone! He thinks I can't do any better & have the car ride as good as it rides now
Glenn Towery


I have taken a ride in Glens CB 74GT! WOW is the only word to use. This things goes like a bullet and handles like a slot car.

He has a 90 degree turn on a country road behind his shop. Most normal people slow down and use the brakes...but NOooooo...Not Glen...He kept mashing on the gas pedal!!!

This was one of those life before your eyes moments when you know that gravity is going to win...

The car took the corner like it was not even there...No sliding...No tire noise...No lifting..The closest thing to a road going F1 car!!

Not sure how fast we were going..Last time I look just before the turn was around 60 MPH...After that all I saw was the sweat pouring from my brow and Glen with a big GRIN on his face.



Greg Wilkerson

This thread was discussed between 05/03/2001 and 13/03/2001

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