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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Is this original or conversion?

Hi everyone,

I wonder if any of you can help me identify this...

I have been offered the chance to buy a MGB V8 in pieces and I am not sure whether the shell is an original V8 or not. It has been painted very nicely in 2 pac but I am not sure whether it is a new GT shell which has been adapted for V8 or not. I have read Roger's V8 conversion article on this site and I am still a little unsure.

The engine mounts look like those pictured in the article but just above this, on the inner wings, the drivers (steering) side has a hole cut in it which I understand is for the exhaust manifold. However, there is no hole cut on the passenger side. Is this correct? Or will I need to cut away the passenger side as well? The picture in Roger's article is only of the drivers side and so I am not sure. It seems a shame to start hacking away at a newly painted shell. Also, I presume I will need to make up a dished sheet to weld in here, sealing up the inner wing? Does anyone have any really detailed pictures of the engine bay mods for me to look at.

The area of the bulkhead around the steering column looks as if it has had some alteration done to it but I would appreciate being able to see from photographs how close to the correct configuration it already is.

Basically, I am trying to weigh up how much work is still to be done and whether or not to take on the project.

Thanks for any help,

Alec.
Alec

If you post some pictures on a hosting site and link to here, you may get more responses. Sounds like a modified car to me. Does it have a small bracket with three mounting holes on the drivers side in the engine bay right next to the radiator mount? It should if its a factory GT, thats where the oil filter mount was. Should look like the one in this picture.
http://www.et.byu.edu/~jmv/suter.htm
As for the holes in the wing, that is a previous owner modification, the original cast iron manifolds didn;t need any cutouts.
Jake

Thanks Jake,

I can't remember for sure whether the bracket was there but I think so.

I didn't realise that the inner wings did not need to be modified for the original manifolds.

To give you some background, the car is halfway through a restoration - in fact the nasty work has mostly been done leaving the fun part of bolting back together as far as I can see. It has certainly been a V8 at some time in the past as all the parts, which are in boxes are V8 parts - the engine, gearbox, wheels, dashboard, etc. are all easily identifiable as V8 parts. I was just unsure whether the shell was a newly purchased shell which was under modification or whether it is the same shell as was used before but simply nicely painted. It seems to me like it is ready to go - (I can't believe that they would have painted it if there was more modification to be done.

It is in a garage which is currently in receivership and I am not in contact with the car owner or the mechanics - in fact I haven't even seen the log book yet.

I will post some pictures if I get the chance but I am comfortable enough that most of the hard work has been done to make an offer.

I am not sure why the hole in the inner wing has not been sealed up. Can this be left like this if, for example inner wheel arches are used?

Thanks again,

Alec
Alec

Alec, first we need to know whether it is a chrome bumper (CB) or rubber bumper (RB) model or perhaps early CB (<69). That will tell us more about the firewall mods. CB's benefit greatly from a few modifications to the steering, one of which is to move the lower end of the steering column away from the headers. The RB models were designed for the V8 and need practically no modification. The hole in the inner fender is an exit hole for the header on that side. Yes, the other side will need to be done too and there are reinforcing or trim rings available as well as templates. That is, if you plan to use headers, which is recommended as the stock manifolds are scarce, tend to crack I've heard, and are restrictive. I think currently the RV8 headers are considered the best choice. You may decide based on what is with the car, but if the manifolds, check for cracks. Since one hole has been cut, I'd guess you have the headers but possibly not the templates or trim rings. If you run the manifolds you can cover that hole, but an excellent alternative is to go ahead and cut the other side using the templates and trim the side that is done if necessary and attach the trim rings, sandwiching some heavy stainless screen in between to create a pair of air exit grilles. This is very helpful in cooling the engine compartment, has been proven, will look just fine, and should you decide to go with headers later it's just a bolt-on modification. Obviously the work should be done before the engine goes in. If you check around you can probably find someone willing to make up stainless trim rings which will save you the trouble of painting them to match the car, or possibly a semi-gloss black.

As for should you buy it? Yes of course, if the price is anywhere near reasonable, and especially so if you like the looks of the GT. It is so rare to find a perfectly clean, rust free, and straight body at anything but a premium that having one in the condition you describe is excuse enough to buy it, even without the running gear or interior. Also, I believe the vehicle ID number should identify exactly what it is, though someone other than me will have to tell you. Getting any parts that might be missing will be no problem at all, and when finished you will have a car that you will surely love. But then, I can be considered biased, as can practically any MGB-V8 owner.

Jim
Jim Blackwood

Jim has covered most things. As he says it depends on the age of the bodyshell as to how much work needs to be done. Regarding exhaust manifolds (headers) you have the choice of RV8 style which go out through the inner wings and need a hole cut in each side, or the "block-huggers" which go down through the narrow gap between engine and chassis. If you use these and you have an early shell (up to 1974) you have to bash a hollow in the inner wing to accommodate the manifold within the engine bay. Roger's book shows how. Later shells have this done already.

The bulkheads need to be angled back to clear the cylinder heads. Looking at the area where the steering shaft emerges, is the metal above that right-angled or slanting backwards. If its right-angled, it's an early shell and will need altering. In the same area, is the universal joint in the steering shaft recessed into the panel bell-mouth, or is it mostly outside the bulkhead. The early car has it outside and this needs to be changed too.

Keep asking,
Mike
Mike Howlett

Thanks for the info Jim. I can't remember seeing any tube steel type headers, I am pretty sure they were cast manifolds. I will have to have a more detailed look at what is there.

As for whether or not to buy it - its a definite. I have restored a few 4 cylinder roadsters over the last 10 years and this seems like an ideal opportunity to get into the V8 - at least before world oil runs out!

Thanks for all your help,

Alec
Alec

Thanks Mike,

I let you know all the details when I have had a closer look. I will compare the bulkhead/universal area with my MGB 4 cylinder but from what I saw, it looked like it had already been done.

The plates attached to the chrome bumpers next to the car are M-reg plates so if it is an original V8 it is an early one.

The shell has been painted in Teal Blue except for the (new) doors/tailgate/bonnet which are in primer. There are older doors etc. which look like they may have come off the car which are Limeflower (73?) or Citron from the look of it.

Were there any Limeflower V8s built?

That would be nice....
Alec

Alec,
if there is a body no. starting with GHD..., it is a conversion. Factory built V8 allways have numbers with GD 2 D prefixes, the engine no., as far as it still is an original MG engine, should start with 488... stamped to the block on the rear flage.
Check out the flange of the bellhousing, it must have the same shape as the rear flange of the block, otherwise a B or C box might come with the 'kit'.
You should also open the backplate of the rearaxle and examin the diff. There aught to be a no. stamed in on it's circumfance: If it is BTB840, it should be ok as the B was fitted with an other item there.
Factory cars never had opened up parts of the inner wings although it helps to lower the under bonnet temp. amd might have been cut in for better ventilation by former owner.
Good luck
Ralph
Ralph

Thanks Ralph,

I'll check that out. There aren't any plates currently on the shell - I think new ones will have to be made up once I get hold of the log book.

I'll let you know.

Alec
Alec

Alec,

Ralph's suggestion is the best way to know for sure. If it turns out to be a factory car, the holes may be there as an attempt to solve a cooling problem. This is a common approach, even on factory original cars. You may want to take note of this.

Here are some links to get a better idea of what are common colors for factory V8's...

http://www.v8register.net/subpages/V8photos.htm

http://www.v8register.net/

Cheers!

Tom
Tom Balutis

This thread was discussed between 06/02/2006 and 10/02/2006

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