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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - pics of my 5.0 project

Here's just a few pictures of my progress to date. Basically it's just a shell at this point. Still on the body rotator. Rockers, sills, floors and lower quarters all replaced. Working on initial fitment of motor right now. Thought I would share:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mgbreis/album?.dir=/bb72

Thanks,
Ryan

Ryan Reis

Looks great!Keep pushin' on.You won't be dissappionted in the results.Steve Carrick will have headers for sale soon for the Ford.Mike
Mike Moor

Car looks great. Please tell us all how you made the rotator?
Regards
Tony
Tony Bates

Ryan,

Pictures look great, can't wait to see the finished car !

Good luck

Pete
Pete Mantell

I built the rotator out of 2x4's because a I had a bunch left over from another project. I basically just built two big sawhorses by doubling up the 2x4's and bolting them together for strenth. Then I built a bracket out of angle iron that bolts to the bumper mounts on each end of the car. There is a short piece of pipe welded to each angle iron bracket, and that pipe slips into a larger pipe that is attached to the top-middle of the sawhorse. It's not the best rotator ever built, but I didn't want to spend half my budget on iron to build the darn thing. It works good and cost almost nothing. The one limitation I have is that its not moveable.

Ryan
Ryan Reis

For those interested in Rotators: I used a similar setup to attach to the rubber bumper mounts using 2x6 but then used the yokes from mine and a friends engine stand to attach to the wood and then the remaining engine stand. This way its on wheels and as long as the doors and lids are removed it worked great, provided the stands are not the T shaped base version as these tend to tilt at the most inopportune time.
Mike
Mike

Looks good man!!! Aren't those GT intake custom made for the car!! I just walked in from buttoning mine up a bit more.. should be driveable again in a few days.

My catch point right now is finding a nice routing for the air intake tube and the MAF. It is cobbled up in the engine bay right now.
Larry Embrey

Ryan- You going through the wheel wells for headers? I'm told over and over that the hugger style, if you can make them fit and if they don't melt of your starter, are the worse dynamic for exhaust gases, eliminate scavenging, and actually are responsible for HP loss low-midrange. Whatareyagonna do with all that power son?
vem myers

Vem,

I'm going to build a set of rv8 style headers to route through the wheel wells. As far as horsepower, my '94 Mustang Gt engine was factory rated at 215 horsepower, so not the most wild engine you'll ever find. What am I going to do with the horsepower? Enjoy it I guess. Also, very importantly, run an air conditioner!

Ryan
Ryan Reis

I built my own out-the-wheel-well headers for my Ford and tested them on the dyno against a cheapie set of 1 5/8" full collector length headers.As I had feared, my headers were good for a 25hp overall loss.I usually tell people that they are good for a 25hp DIFFERENCE over standard headers,skipping over the loss part.It's mostly due to collector length,mine have about 2 inches due to tire clearance issues.But they have served well for many years,and ceramic coating is a must,for heat and preservation.
Dale

Flowmasters = GOOD!! Just installed a set of Delta 40's. I always knew I liked the sound of em. Now to get the exh out from under the car and either out the side of the car or out the tail..

I also built my headers, Long tube 1.5" primary's into a 3" collector, then into 2.5" duals. I originally looked at RV style, but the 2x2 tube configuration was going to foul the tires at full lock, so I made them in the traditional long tube style set-up.

Dale, people fail to realise, engines like your, ine, DanMasters, Ted Lathrop etc, NEED to lose a few HP just to remain drivable!! Driving a on/off mega cammed car is not fun on a daily basis...
Larry Embrey

Original intent of headers was to increase torque in the mid and high rpm, to do this job, it does not include exhaust pipes and mufflers.

Dia. is more important than lengh (keep those thoughs to your self)
Primary pipe should be the same size as the exhaust valve bigger is better if running pipes and mufflers.
The size of the exhaust pipe should always be bigger than the primary pipe when using mufflers and pipes.

This is ONE of the many ways to improve torque from a set of headers.

Bill Guzman

I have to comment.A thread on pictures of a 5.0 Ford project denigrates into 2 Ford owners being told by a v6'er to "keep your thoughts to yourself", a.k.a. "shut up"??!!
Dale

I don't think that's what was intended. Unless I read Guzman's comment incorrectly, he's making a joke of a common excuse/justification around the shortcomings of one's male attribute.

Wayne
Wayne Pearson

DOAH!.....never mind
Dale

Not a problem Dale!
Bill Guzman

This thread was discussed between 22/09/2004 and 12/10/2004

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