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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Removing Radiator Panels

Thanks to all the help I have received so far on the group D Day is approaching - the time when I finally start the body work mods.

When I get to the radiator support panel and undertray I have decided to remove the old CB and replace with RB ones. Having picked up the new panels for a song, so -

Removal
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Should I -

1a) Drill out the spot welds and prise out the old panels, or

b) Cut as much out in one piece with the grinder as I can, then grind what is left flush with the remaining panels (my percieved easier and preferred option?).

2. Is there a preferred order for removal - top first, bottom first, or no matter?

3. How will the shell hold up with these panels tempararily removed? Should I try to do the support tray first and replace that before moving on to the under tray - or can I cut them all out without distortion?

Fitting New Ones
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1. Will MIG seam welding be OK for the new panels (don't have a spot welder handy!), or should I drill holes on the new ones and puddle weld them ? (Note that I have a professional/expert welder to hand in my father in law!).

Awaiting your responses eagerly.

Thanks.
Liam H

Remove spot welds, grind smoth with fine pad.
New panels should have holes, if they do not, then drill holes 2-3 in each side and spot weld with the mig.
Bill Guzman

Just cut the chrome radiator bottom pannel to level with the slam pannel. As well as saving alot of money and time, this gives you all the room you could want. My radiator is right up against the slam panel and although it sits up high, tucks away nicely into the bonnet intersticies. Infact you don't think it could possibly close. Mine was a rubber bumper. Anyone who knows (cares) about authenticity will not be fooled for 1 second by a rubber bumper pannel, and certainly would not be interested in a V8 conversion anyway. Wrong mind set. Anyone interested in V8 conversions couldn't care less. You are free to do what you like. Mind you having said that I can't help shuddering at the memory of that VW beatle engine conversion. Yes it was actualy in the boot. It's not right but I can't help hoping the perpetrator didn't die horribly trying to drive the awful thing.
Peter

Creativity is a wonderful thing, do not stop.
Bill Guzman

Bill & Peter - thanks.

Peter - where would this mod leave me when it comes to fitting an underslung oil cooler ?

The main reason for using RB panels was for fitting the oil coller and routing the pipes.

I have a video of this - it looks a bit brutal - cutting the two panels right back and welding in a closing piece. I suppose it does the job though.

Liam

I put mine on top of the tray, up behind the radiator grill, right of centre. More or less the same location as the MGC, except that on the MGB there is just room for a 10 row cooler, plus pipework and fittings, UNDER the slam panel. Fits in neatly between the centre support and the rubber bumper, bumper reinforcing. The hydrolic pipes just happen to locate up in the slam pannel, out of sight, so all you see is the cooler.Infact it fits so well (with the slamm panel support being off centre by just the right distance and all) I suspect that might have been a deliberate intention by MG.
Also, on top because partly because I was worried about knocking it against a parking curb (can you imagine the mess) but mostly (and not particularly rationaly) because I liked the look of it lurking behind the grill, hinting of the serious machinery within.
peter

ps-keep in mind that the cut and welded bit will have a radiator (or air con' cooler) right up close against it. The only time you will ever see it is when the radiator is out of the car.
You could even use rivets if you wanted.
peter

This thread was discussed between 25/01/2006 and 28/01/2006

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