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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - Rover V8 earlier model timing marks

Hi all,

hope you can help with this one.
I have just fitted a P5B front timing cover to my Range Rover engine that is to fit in my 69 Roadster.
The problem that I have is that when i came to fit the front pulley the timing mark location is different to the Range Rover. The range rover had TDC mark at the top location where as the P5B pulley puts it at ( a guess) about 300deg. The only timing pointer I have is off the range Rover and it is no good for this set up.
Does anyone have a picture or preferably dimensions of the P5B timing point so i can make one.

The other problem I have is the cover came with an RPI uprated oil pump which i have fitted but now it does not fit the distributor drive - the slot is the other way round? Any ideas?

Help as always appreciated
cheers
Steve
Steve Danson

Steve,

If you are trying to use the R/Rover front pulley that is the problem. The accepted method is to use a P5/P6 front pulley and water pump and the cradle for the alternator and then everything will line up.

If you cannot find a P5/6 pulley you can have a groove machined in an SD1 pulley after unbolting the attached original pulley.

If your engine is in the stock position for a MGBV8 there is not enough room for the R/Rover pully.

I presume you have the remote take off for the oil filter.

A good source of parts is Dave Vale at V8 conversions 01689 858716

A picture of mine during conversion.

Kevin

Kevin Jackson

Steve,

I did the same as Kevin regarding the front pulley. I had the SDI pulley 'reconditioned' which means they separated the 2 components of the pulley and machined the proper size groove and bonded them back together again. In fact the outer may have been a new piece.

On the oil pump issue you could do as I did and get the oil pump drive shaft which suits from another engine and press it into your oil pump gear. It is a little short and does not go all the way through the gear but that is not a problem.
Ian Buckley

Hi thanks for the replies.
I have fitted an earlier pulley off a P5B - my problem is the timing marker is missing and so i don't know exactly where the TDC is.
Re the oil pump - great idea swapping the shafts that is exactly what i will now do.
Just one very quick question, when i bought the engine out of a 1987 Range Rover it came with the distributor and coil but no wiring. Can I just wire the dizzy up as if it was a points version or does it have other parts that i will be missing? I can get a P5B dizzy with points easy but would rather keep the electronic version if possible

thanks
Steve
Steve Danson

Steve,

I forgot to mention the fix for the dizzy drive is normally to swap the bottom drive unit on the dizzy shaft, they are just pinned on and I believe you can just drive the pin out and swap in the one you need from either an early or late one to suit your requirements. Be aware that the pin may not be central on the shaft and you have to check that the holes all line up before driving the pin back home

What type of electronic dizzy do you have, there are three types 35D8 early Opus 35DM8 with remote amp and the 35DLM8 which has the amp on the body of the dizzy itself. If you do not have the amp or need a replacement one you can get an Intermotor one correct for your dizzy from most good motor factors for approx £20 which is considerably less than from the usual culprits.

For any tech advice relating to Rover V8's you could visit another forum I'm a member of

http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/index.php?sid=df7988faa6ab21594a588ef5850a8f17



Kevin.
Kevin Jackson

Steve,

I also forgot to mention that there are quite a few MGBV8'ers on the V8 Forum and you'd be made very welcome, there also a classified section where you often find Rover bits very cheaply.


Heres a decent pic of my beast.

Kevin Jackson

And one of the new 4.35 engine i have just had built with a 4.2 crank. chevy rods and hypereutectic pistons Crower 50232 cam all topped off with a pair of modified big valve Buick 300 alloy heads.

Kevin.

Kevin Jackson

Steve,

I completely forgot the timing the pointer, this bolts onto the front cover just above the front pulley, a little to the right if I remember correctly.

It is very worthwhile checking the TDC marking on the pulley for accuracy especially if you have changed pulleys.

You need to accurately pinpoint TDC on No.1 on the compression stroke, you may be able to buy a piston stop or make one yourself from an old sparkplug with the centre taken out, wedge a piece of wood dowel in then fit the plug, rotate engine forward by hand until you feel resistance and make a mark on the pulley where the pointer is, then rotate the engine backwards until you hit the stop and mark again, TDC will be exactly half way between these marks, then permanently mark the pulley with this position.

Also be aware that the dizzys can be way out on the advance curve but can be recurved with a kit if your mechanically minded.

Set the static advance at 10deg. at 1000RPM and get some one to rev the car to 3500RPM and check the advance it should be around 34deg. on a 3.5 engine it could be way out and getting it right makes a vast difference to how the engine performs and fuel economy.


Kevin.
Kevin Jackson

"You need to accurately pinpoint TDC on No.1 on the compression stroke"

This should work on either stroke. The valves vary but the piston, crank and hence pulley position don't.
Paul Hunt

thanks again for the comments
Been advised to look on Rimmers website and they actually list the pointer I am missing so I will buy that. All suggestions much appreciated though.
Kevin that is a monster of an engine and thanks for the link.
Not sure which dizzy i have but it has a black box on the side if that helps
cheers
Steve
Steve Danson

Is this a 3.9 litre engine? I have been led to understand that the 3.9 needs to have it's original pulley because it is externally balanced by the pulley damper. It is apparently the only variant that is done like this. If you fit a different pulley on a 3.9 I have been told it will be unbalanced. You must realise that I have no personal knowledge of this, it is just what I have been led to understand.
Mike Howlett

Mike, it is 3.5 litre
Steve Danson

Steve,

You have the 35DLM8 dizzy. Watch out for Rimmers prices, they are astronomical! I think they want over £50 for a vacuum unit for the dizzy.

Kevin,

Kevin Jackson

"they want over £50 for a vacuum unit for the dizzy"

Maybe not so astronomical, I paid £35 nearly 3 years ago from Clive Wheatley.
Paul Hunt

Paul,

They are now asking nearly £79 for what I presume is OEM and an alternative with a suffix P which I assume is a pattern part for £42, I don't call either of those prices reasonable when the average price of a Vacuum can in the states is about a tenner even at current rates of exchange, pity they don't have one for the Lucas dizzy.

Kevin.
Kevin Jackson

£80 is a lot more than £50 ...

I've had to buy two as fuel was running down the pipe from the bottom-mounted port on the HIFs and rotting the diaphragm. After the 2nd I fabricated a separation chamber which from its construction and positioning allows any fuel to run back to the carbs rather than down to the distributor. Since then no further problem. See http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/wn_ignitionframe.htm and click on 'Vacuum Module' and 'V8 Vacuum Module'.
Paul Hunt

This thread was discussed between 10/11/2008 and 14/11/2008

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