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MG MGB GT V8 Factory Originals Technical - RV8 headers once again

The project having reached the point where I can start looking seriously at my exhaust system, I'm looking for some recent information on fit, fitting, and durability of the RV8 style headers available to us here in the U.S. or by mail order from overseas. I've gone thru the archives and found lots of information and pictures, most of it several years old, but maybe some of you can offer some more current info on the headers available from D&D, TSI, and Towery, or any others. If I go the RV8 route, there's still the question of whether I build/have built, or buy the headers. Are any of what's available equal length tubes? Do any have continuous flanges between ports to help prevent warping? Is anyone having cracking problems with the RV8 style? Anyone totally satisfied or the opposite? Comments on SS versus mild steel?
Any structurally related problems, or any other kind, so far with the access hole or reinforcing ring? I'm using Buick 300 heads; does anyone know if the exhaust for the larger Rovers will fit my heads properly? Any glaring fitting problems with a certain type? I appreciate any more light you all can shed on the subject as far as what's now available, and finally, I'd like to hear from those who've built their own.

Thanks, Joe
Joe Ullman

Joe,
I just installed a new set of mild steel RV8 headers from D&D. The flange is flame cut in a single piece and is 3/8" thick, with a raised bead on the gasket sealing surface. Weld quality is average (some splatter). Fit is good. Tube diameter is 1 5/8" and the collector is 2". The headers have the cutout to accomodate the oil dipstick and they include a 2' collector pipe on each side. I had mine Ceramic coated by HPC for an additional $180. I have no complaints and would recommend these headers to anyone contemplating the RV8 style.

Gordon
Gordon Elkins

Cut out for the dipstick is crucial! I learned that the hard way, and am still trying to figure out just how and where I'm going to make that cut out on mine. (It'll probably be a winter project for me, along with about 8,000 others... heh heh) Those holes in the fenders are pretty big. If you're looking at headers, you're probably also looking at exhaust. I ran a y pipe into a single pipe going into a 3 chamber flow master with a single pipe out. you can't tell from the pipe in the back there is anything in the car, but you definitely get that nice low V8 burble, and when you hit the gas it sounds like a 5 liter mustang rippin down the street. I like it =) It definitely adds to the "sleeper" effect of the car. Out the door was $269.00 for my muffler system. So you've got the 300 heads, you have a 300 crank too? What all do you have in the car? Any pictures yet?

Questions and answers -- the life blood of our hobby,
Justin
Justin

Joe,

I got a stainless steel header set and big bore single exhaust from MGB Hive in UK.

The header had to be tweeked to fit, and the silencer (muffler) was too low at the back, and pranged on a level crossing in France on the way to Le Mans, but I understand these faults have been fixed on current production..

The system sounds good, although it is only a single pipe, and I thought it was good value for money, and being stainless, should last.

Mike
Michael barnfather

Joe
I have a set of Clive Weatly's SS RV8 on mine. They were a little pricey, but the quality is top notch. Very smooth welds and excellent fit. The flanges are individual so there are no clearance problems with the dip stick or plug wires.
Since you went with the 300 heads I would definetly go with the RV8 headers for better breathing.

Bill bill_jacobson@hotmail.com
bill jacobson

Thanks guys for your input. Good recomendations. Having heard about the cracking, warping, and shifting about of block hugger types, I tend to want to go with the continuous flange, but am wary of interference, and don't know if it's really necessary. I'll have to take a hard look this weekend when I have the engine back in. Anyone else have any more insight on that issue? Bill, have you had the headers back off, and did everything still line up afterwards? I should probably start thinking about calling some of the suppliers. I also want to look into a few of the local pipebenders. Supposedly, one old-timer has at least two BV8s under his belt, but I don't know what method he used to route the pipes, so have to talk to him, too.
The engine uses the flowed 300 heads with big Olds diesel valves, but using the 215 crank to keep the stroke short. Pistons are 305 Chevy, Buick 300 rods, Kenne-Bell cam, heads milled for 9.5 cr, everything balanced, of course, for a displacement of 247 ci, or 4 liters. MGB rearend with Quaiff lsd and 3.31 cwp, sourced from Autogear; I won't embarass myself by saying how much those cost, but I coulda bought two Ford rearends! The tranny is a GM T-5 with the 0.73 od. Stock Buick flywheel and pressure plate, custom made disk. I plan to use the newest Holley Projection throttle body fi setup as I've heard good things about it, and hopefully will stay ahead of the smog regs, although in WA the car's still exempt. The engine bay's been opened up somewhat in the areas of the inner fenders, bulkheads, and tunnel for clearance and hot air egress. The two ujoint steering with vibration damper is finally finalized...I think. I have some project scrapbook type pictures, but nothing too fancy or interesting. I'll be taking some more with the engine in after I get the shell cleaned up a bit. The plan for this summer is to fit the exhaust and finish rustproofing treatment, so that I can get started on the brake and clutch plumbing. Like someone said, there's a zillion ways to skin a cat!
Any more comments on experience with RV8 type manifolds?

Thanks again, Joe
Joe Ullman

Clive Wheatley is doing paired manifolds with the correct alignment now, but like you I would like to see continuous flanges.
Paul Hunt

Joe,
This is from an old thread in the archives:
Barrie Robinson in Ontario reps for the two piece through-the-fender headers with long secondaries. They look like 20 bhp in pictures, though he didn't send 'after installed' pics. They are fabbed in and shipped from Oz. Barrie says his were professionally installed on a 1-1/2" setback engine and "went in without a hitch.". There's a pic and Barries info in th MG V-8 Newsletter Issue VIII vol. 1 (blue cover) under 'new products'. They come in mild and stainless with 1-5/8" or 1-3/4" extractors for racers. "Jet Hot" is recommended for all sets. From the headers back is your job. Barrie recommends mild 1-5/8" for the street. Also, he has some great rust proofing and short water pump tips in the current British V8 Newsletter.
Cheers, Angus
Angus Davies

Angus,
Do you know who in OZ makes and ships these headers?
Allan
Allan

Joe
I havn't had the headers back off. So far no reason to do so. But I dont think they have warped any, no problem with leakage, blown gaskets, etc.


Bill
bill jacobson

Thanks for that info, Angus, I was thinking 1-5/8". Bill, good to hear no evident problems with your headers. Those sound like the ticket, but I'm wondering about where they'll exit the engine bay. I want the hole to be as near the rear of the wheel well as possible because of my Koni front shock add on. When I put those on, I never imagined they'd be a possible interference problem later. Hard to tell without actually looking at the headers. I need to call some suppliers and give them some measurements as to my engine setback and see if something ready made will work, or if I have to have something custom done in the RV8 style. Really appreciate all this help.

Best, Joe
Joe Ullman

D & D fabrications sells a header flange kit that includes the flanges, bolts and gaskets, and you can weld it all together yourself. If you're worried about problems, or want to make it custom fit around your koni's, maybe take the car and these flanges to the local muffler/welder and have them do the welding to fit around your shocks?

Just an idea,
Justin
Justin

Unless you’re going to make your own headers, don’t buy the flanges before you know for sure someone in your area can and will do it for you. I could only find one person locally that custom made headers and after he saw how tight the clearance were in my MGB V8, he put off the project for six months before I retrieved the car so I could do other work on it. I wound up buying finished headers and get to have a set of flanges gathering dust on my shelf next to the worthless cast manifolds.
George Champion

Now that the motor's back in and I can eyeball everything in place, the next step will be to dig out and organize all my notes and talk to the local pipebenders, after I locate them. I know the feeling about extra parts lying around; so far I have two sets of exhaust port flanges that were made up, one set continuous flange and the others seperate. Have to wait and see which one, if either, actually gets used.

Best, Joe
Joe Ullman

Bill,
Did you order your headers directly from Clive Wheatly or a source on this side of the pond?

Kelly
Kelly

Kelly
Yes I did order them direct from Clive. His phone # is 01902 330489. Also I heard you could get them from Andy's V8 parts here in the states.

Bill bill_jacobson@hotmail.com
bill jacobson

be prepared for SERIOUS cash outlay for customs too. We have one guy everyone recommends around here for custom headers, his starting price was $700+US. I said no way. Being Ford powered I had lots of headr choices, I bought cheapest 2 sets of full lengths I could scrounge and started cutting... Might not be an possibility for a Rover (finding headers) but I would recommend buying RV8's, I saw a pair and they just fit very nicely..
Larry Embrey

Thanks Bill, I'll give Clive a call. I'll pass on Andy's. He's not one of my favorite people.

Kelly
Kelly

This thread was discussed between 11/07/2002 and 18/07/2002

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